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Leave it, it looks cooler.
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ArcticMyst Security by Avery
My DIY Blu-Ray
- Thread starter thejunkmonger
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SMIDSY
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This is excellent- I love the tail cap! and it looks heavy!!
Nice work!
If you want it to look old theres a process you can do where you get a special type of black paint and rub it into the metal- then you wipe it off and it leaves an aged bronze look...
if you want to knwo more I can find out exactly how its done for you?
Nice work!
If you want it to look old theres a process you can do where you get a special type of black paint and rub it into the metal- then you wipe it off and it leaves an aged bronze look...
if you want to knwo more I can find out exactly how its done for you?
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SMIDSY said:
Yes please more info would be great.
SMIDSY
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thejunkmonger said:
Yes please more info would be great.
[/quote]
I did this once and it worked really well! its a long time ago though
anyways this it what it looks like (not a brill example but still) when its done:
you can imagine the effect when done well...
judging on your tail cap you're UK right?
If i remember right you had to plate the non conductive thing with a copper solution- then you essentially rubbed in an oxidizing agent and wiped off the excess
For brass which i think you are using it should be easier!
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SMIDSY said:
Yes please more info would be great.
[/quote]
I did this once and it worked really well! its a long time ago though
anyways this it what it looks like (not a brill example but still) when its done:
you can imagine the effect when done well...
judging on your tail cap you're UK right?
If i remember right you had to plate the non conductive thing with a copper solution- then you essentially rubbed in an oxidizing agent and wiped off the excess
For brass which i think you are using it should be easier![/quote]
Actually i'm in Italy need to find this oxidizing agent then or some way to make it at home
SMIDSY
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it shouldn't be too hard to find- I know this process is used extensively on baby shoes (hence the picture lol)
I remember the oxidising thing its a liquid- then you rub it off and buff it and it leaves like the scratches in the metal darker causing the aging effect- it'll make your thing look great especially the letters!
Ill see if i can find out from my college that it was called....
actually I can tell you the letters woudl look fantastic after this process!
If you cant find the oxidizing agent- get one of the shoe bronzing kits and use it on the laser (i've never used the kits but I assume it'll be the same).
Also I've only done this on copper but I assume brass would be easier as it tarnished a better colour.
I remember the oxidising thing its a liquid- then you rub it off and buff it and it leaves like the scratches in the metal darker causing the aging effect- it'll make your thing look great especially the letters!
Ill see if i can find out from my college that it was called....
actually I can tell you the letters woudl look fantastic after this process!
If you cant find the oxidizing agent- get one of the shoe bronzing kits and use it on the laser (i've never used the kits but I assume it'll be the same).
Also I've only done this on copper but I assume brass would be easier as it tarnished a better colour.
rog8811
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A fibreglass cleaning pen (as used to clean PCB's) will get in all those crevices and take out the solder should you decide you need too.
When making replacement brass parts for antiques, (castors and the like) I would "age" them in sawdust soaked in ammonia......
Regards rog8811
SMIDSY
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I disagree... I dont like that idea- ammonia is nasty and difficult to obtain.
The method of the oxidiser is quick cheap and easy...
The method of the oxidiser is quick cheap and easy...
rog8811
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Just telling you what we do in the trade......
SMIDSY
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rog8811 said:Just telling you what we do in the trade......
I still remember a time when i was told to "gently heat" an concentrated ammonia mixture... I put it into a roaring flame and it exploded all over my hands and work... not nice lol
I still think especially on brass the oxidisers the way to go...
though what would the ammonia and sawdust do?
rog8811
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It oxidises the surface, turns it greenish black, then you buff it up.
We used to get our ammonia from drawing offices for nothing, they use a dilute form in diazo printers (blue print) as a developer.
Regards rog8811
We used to get our ammonia from drawing offices for nothing, they use a dilute form in diazo printers (blue print) as a developer.
Regards rog8811
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rog8811 said:
Cool Rog Those are 2 things I actually have at home thanks
Need to find out where I can get one of those brushes cheap
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I'm thinking about changing the design of the optic assembly, instead of the head I have on it now I was thinking to embed the dx lens assembly inside the barrel and have a cutout so I can adjust the focus. What do you guys think? Keep the one i have now or embed the head in barrel with a cutout for focus. The reason I was thinking this was because when I focus it there will be a gap between the head and the barrel and I don't think it will look very nice.
I was thinking to focus it as best as I could and then press it to the right depth so the head would be flush with the barrel but that will be royal pain and also if I adjust it for a closer focal length it would still be away from the barrel.
I was thinking to focus it as best as I could and then press it to the right depth so the head would be flush with the barrel but that will be royal pain and also if I adjust it for a closer focal length it would still be away from the barrel.
daguin
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thejunkmonger said:
I prefer to be able to focus mine.
Peace,
dave
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Focus, hands down.
