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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

X-Drive X-Boost






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:thinking: I think I killed my rectangular X-boost. I hooked it up the the test load And it measured 1.26v (1.2a) the pot adjusted it a bit but not much. I soldered the "range 2 bridge" resistors and set it back up on the test load and it flickered and dropped to 0.00
 
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rhd

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:thinking: I think I killed my rectangular X-boost. I hooked it up the the test load And it measured 1.26v (1.2a) the pot adjusted it a bit but not much. I soldered the "range 2 bridge" resistors and set it back up on the test load and it flickered and dropped to 0.00

A photo of the driver would be helpful.
 
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The Vin was was a host that was having some tail switch issues but I isolated just the driver by hooking up it up just the the battery. Samething. Nothing.
(The heat sink isn't shorting out)
I desoldered the resistor bridge but that didn't do anything either.
Adj are killing me ugh

 
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That's true I suppose. Is it typical to heatsink the driver before setting the current?
I haven't seen a good thread about setting these. I've scanned a few older ones.
 

IWIRE

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I never heat sink mine when setting them up, but they are never on for more than a few seconds.

I power it up, check my reading, power it down, adjust, power it up and check, power it down, repeat as needed.

I mainly do it that way so my test load doesn't heat up and give me inaccurate readings. Maybe doing it that way saves the drive too ?
I simply don't know. That way works for me though.
 
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Good suggestions. Maybe when these drives become more available I will give it a go. It's a bit frustrating because I thought every thing was set up perfectly then boom! está muerto
 
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I never heat sink mine when setting them up, but they are never on for more than a few seconds.

I power it up, check my reading, power it down, adjust, power it up and check, power it down, repeat as needed.

I mainly do it that way so my test load doesn't heat up and give me inaccurate readings. Maybe doing it that way saves the drive too ?
I simply don't know. That way works for me though.

I don't know how that could be. The X-Boost will smoke in a fraction of a second with no
heatsink at 1.8A. At 1A it still smokes after several seconds.
 

IWIRE

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I don't know how that could be. The X-Boost will smoke in a fraction of a second with no
heatsink at 1.8A. At 1A it still smokes after several seconds.

I must be extremely lucky then. The only thing I have hooked to them is the leads soldered to them and they are sitting on a rubber soldering mat. Maybe I need to come up with a temp heat sink ? I bet I've set up at least 6 of them that way. I've even had sxb`s running in parallel just to make sure they would work with no heat sinking.
Not saying that is right. Just I know what I have done.
 
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I'm beginning to believe that I live in some kind of island universe where everything is pants, and I can only
communicate with people who are in other better ones over the Internet.
 

IWIRE

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I'm beginning to believe that I live in some kind of island universe where everything is pants, and I can only
communicate with people who are in other better ones over the Internet.

I guess I don't understand. Not that it surprises me though.
 
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Well, all I can say is that I have killed an X-Boost™ before by running it without a heatsink,
and that I don't recommend doing it. The SXB is a different animal and I have yet to try one,
so that might explain some of the discrepancy. The ones that have the little DFN chip are the
ones that tend to run hot. What I do is carefully hold a flat piece of copper or aluminum
tightly to the chip during testing if it is going to someone who will put it on their own heatsink,
or otherwise epoxy it to the heatsink it will be going on first if I have it. (Better yet)
 

IWIRE

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Thanks for the tip. I have some copper strips I use sometimes when they are in their permanent home. Just depends on the build and how I mounted the drive. I honestly didn't know I needed to do that setting them up. I'll start using them. Makes sense. I can't believe the only one I've fried was do to a poor solder connection on the output.
I do the same thing with microboost drives too. Probably need to rethink that also.
:beer:
 




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