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X-Drive X-Boost

Alaskan

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Thanks, I have a habit of saying the voltage when I am thinking current at that voltage, they are so interdependent upon one another, as the voltage goes up, so does the current and so forth, but the device itself is indeed constant current regulation, my bad.

a boost that works down to 3V input, doesn't necessarily work for all of its output current rating right down to 3V input.

That's why I'm interested in knowing the input voltage range they can work at for rated output. There is oh so much more about them than I can determine from the info offered on this page. i.e what happens to the output current of a particular boost driver when my battery source is depleted towards the low end of its capacity, at what point does it begin to reduce output current or quit? Nothing here about how they behave.
 
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rhd

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That's why I'm interested in knowing the input voltage range they can work at for rated output. There is oh so much more about them than I can determine from the info offered on this page. i.e what happens to the output current of a particular boost driver when my battery source is depleted towards the low end of its capacity, at what point does it begin to reduce output current or quit? Nothing here about how they behave.

If the driver works the way I think it does, then it is probably capable of running on a VIN down to 2.7V. I'd also estimate that this can boost to the full 4.5A @ 5.2V for input voltages of down to around 3.5V, assuming the input can supply 8 or so Amps, which is what I think the max switch current of the IC is.

I don't have any magical knowledge though, and I'm making a lot of assumptions in the above, so you might be best off just asking it's creator your questions!

I like the design of this driver a lot :)

If I'm not mistaken, I think you could probably take a 10k pull-down resistor and bridge that 3rd pin to the 4th pin, and then attach a tactile (low current) button between that 3rd pin and the driver's VIN, and use the low current button to turn the driver on/off. That's useful since a lot of new hosts are using tactile low current buttons instead of switches. Of course I may be wrong about the above, as it's based on me guessing how the driver works from the photo alone.
 
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The Lightning Stalker

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These are designed with 445 - 638nm diodes
in mind. Diodes outside this range will
produce mixed results. I will send you a
PM with Angelos' e-Mail and you can ask him
yourself. I hate to say it, but the best
way to find out if these will drive an
unusual diode is to buy one and test it
yourself. Always use plenty of
heatsinking, especially with the boost
drivers.
 

Alaskan

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Thanks,

For IR at 2.0 VDC I'm thinking I can use a driver for higher output voltage and just put a diode in series with the output to drop the extra voltage down to where I can use it.
 

will manners

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The SXD looks like an awesome edition to the x-drive line-up.

However more details would be appreciated. I assume that it is a buck driver, what are the dimensions of the SXD?
 

will manners

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nellywhads

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Questions up for anyone here (but hopefully flaminpyro)

I want to drive an M140 (I bought it a while ago from DTR) with a single 18650 in a C6 housing. Should I be set with using the 16.8mm X-Boost Adj 150 to 1800mA driver on this thread? Also, how much heatsinking would I need if I want to have it going at ~1.7A?

If anyone in the Boston area has ordered from here, any idea on how long shipping takes on average? I'm leaving the states on the 29th and I was hoping to get the order before then considering he'll be back on the 21st

Thanks everyone,
NellyWhads
 
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The Lightning Stalker

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Running @1.7A needs decent heatsinking

16.8mm has trouble fitting a heatsink inside
the C6, but I think what most people do is
thermal epoxy a rectangular X-Boost to the
pill with Arctic Alumina or else use the
Survival Laser driver

Shame I don't have a rectangular X-boost
else I would check test it see if it would fit
for you
 

nellywhads

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So for the build I'm trying for here, maybe I should use the X-Boost Adj. 150mA to 1800mA?

Also when you say has trouble, how much trouble are we talking? would I be able to forego the metal ring used to press it into the sink and still be happy it I arctic alumina'd a fair size copper block onto it?

Running @1.7A needs decent heatsinking

16.8mm has trouble fitting a heatsink inside
the C6, but I think what most people do is
thermal epoxy a rectangular X-Boost to the
pill with Arctic Alumina or else use the
Survival Laser driver

Shame I don't have a rectangular X-boost
else I would check test it see if it would fit
for you
 

The Lightning Stalker

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So for the build I'm trying for here, maybe I should use the X-Boost Adj. 150mA to 1800mA?

Also when you say has trouble, how much trouble are we talking? would I be able to forego the metal ring used to press it into the sink and still be happy it I arctic alumina'd a fair size copper block onto it?

Depends on the exact C6 in hand, really but
ideally the heatsink also contacts the host
outer casing to get the heat out, else it gets
hot internally with no external indication

A good heatsink nearly fills the empty space
inside the host.
 

nellywhads

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So with a 16.8mm I'd want solid contact with the outer heat sink, meaning a tight seating in the ring wouldn't be enough?

As for the C6, it's the one available off of SurvivalLaser, and I machined my own heat sink for it.

Depends on the exact C6 in hand, really but
ideally the heatsink also contacts the host
outer casing to get the heat out, else it gets
hot internally with no external indication

A good heatsink nearly fills the empty space
inside the host.
 

The Lightning Stalker

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So with a 16.8mm I'd want solid contact with the outer heat sink, meaning a tight seating in the ring wouldn't be enough?

No. Looking at this picture here

mmav.jpg


The small black IC right of the yellow
arrow is the part that needs heatsinking.
Also it is shorter than the diode and
inductor so many design challenges not
really sure what the round ones are good for

As for the C6, it's the one available off of SurvivalLaser, and I machined my own heat sink for it.

That is good you can machine parts for it,
makes things much easier because you can
get a closer tolerance slip fit with the
host, good hobby for a machinist :)

Wish you were here maybe we could get the
round X-Boost into an MS-Envy.
 

nellywhads

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Sweet - I'll go for the rectangular X-Boost adjust and hope I can make it fit :)
I actually spent most of the winter trying to reflow the BenBoost Mini by myself but it didn't go as well as I'd hoped.

If you want to PM me over some pictures/basic layout+sizing for your host I can try and CAD together a mockup of how you may be able to heatsink it using just machine shop tools. I'm in first year studying Mechatronics, so I have access to a machine shop but not until I get back to Canada :(

I'm also doing a PHR build, which I want to keep super tiny so I've got myself a Flex-drive just waiting to be used once I'm done this pesky C6 build that's taking me almost a year now haha

That is good you can machine parts for it,
makes things much easier because you can
get a closer tolerance slip fit with the
host, good hobby for a machinist :)

Wish you were here maybe we could get the
round X-Boost into an MS-Envy.
 

crazyspaz

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Wait, what? What's the problem with using a round driver? The C6 have round driver pills for a reason...
 




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