would it be a good driver?

[resal7]

i recently got this torch to use as a host for my 1 Watt 445 nm handy
DealExtreme: $24.69 Aurora X-06-3 Cree P4-WC 120-Lumen LED Flashlight with Assault Crown (3*CR123A)
I've tested the LED driver of this torch with a dummie load(5x N4007,1 ohm resistor).It gives 1,090 amps and the voltage across the dummie load-including the resistor is 5,3 volts...
I'm thinking of using that driver to power the diode...
(the batteries used are 3x CR123 rechargeables 3,7 volts nom.(4,1 volts max),880 mAh)
would it work?:thinking:

P.S. the driver was a bit overdriven,as the manuf/er suggests 10 volt input voltage for 900ma current.Probably is a linear current.When input voltage is 12,3 volts the current goes to 1,090 A.....

 

[kiyoukan]

It could work, But driving an led is a lot safer than driving a laser.
The driver might have some nasty on and off spikes that could kill a laser.
If i was to use a dx driver i think i might add the lasorb to go with it to make sure its safe.
thats my 0.02$

 

[yobresal]

I have been exerimenting with different flashlight drivers on these 445nm diodes and thus far not a single one of the diodes has suffered any drop in power or premature death. That doesn't rule out the arguement that it may shorten the life of the diode. Longevity tests have still yet to have been done with any of these diodes by us LPFers simply because not enough time has passed. I for one have no reserves using an appropriate flashlight driver though I usually and still use the flexdrive.

 

[resal7]

Well,that maybe true,but i tested it many times on/off and no spikes.It also has a soft-start function,from what my multimeter recorded....
After some more testing i found that also it has a soft -off function also.

 

[Giface]

I've been using this buck driver: 5W w/ max 18V input

It's a drop in fit to many hosts, including this popular one: DIY flashlight shell

That host provides plenty of heatsink room, which I'm taking full advantage of at these powers.
As far as the driver goes, I've had no over heating issues and it seems to be functioning as well as anything that I could build - and hey, it only costs $2 .

I haven't scoped the current spikes and I keep my run times less than 1 minute (roughly)

So far so good .

Dave

 

[resal7]

Hey I think is the same driver...
much thanx

 

[Giface]

Hey I think is the same driver...

Maybe, but I haven't seen the driver from that flashlight.

I'm getting 1.2A output and I'm using 2 16340s.

 

[resal7]

...that driver is the one used in most cree type torches from DX
the output current depends on load used...(800mA-1.2 A) as long as input voltage is higher from Vf of diode...


" (from DX reviews)
Pros: It works on a single Li-ion or a 12v battery.
It drives between 1 to 1.2A (depends on LED and power source)
None have failed yet
Board diameter fits P60 drop-ins.

Cons: Gets a little warm

Other Thoughts: I have used these on a single Li-ion torch and also in out side lighting on 12v (for our stables). Since buying my first last year, none have failed. None of my Cree Q5s have burnt out yet either, but good heat sinks are needed at 1.2A."




some tech info of this driver;
Input voltage:Vf+0.7-18 (3 min- 24 max)
efficiency:~85%




"

Subject: Same board found on most P60 drop-in from DX

MRLED Wednesday, July 01, 2009 10:20 AM Reply

This is the exact board found on my:

Cree R2 Drop-In 1-Mode LED Module
DealExtreme: $8.45 Cree R2 Drop-In 1-Mode LED Module (3.7V~18V / 26.5mm x 29mm)

Cree Q5 Drop-In 1-Mode LED Module
DealExtreme: $8.43 Cree Q5 LED Drop-in Module (3.7V~18V Input)

Cree P4 Drop-in 1-Mode LED Module
DealExtreme: $7.25 3V~18V Input 3W Cree Drop-in Module (supports Surefire 6P)

There is a significance difference in brightness between R2 and Q5 drop-in when using only one 17670/18650 cell due to the Vf rating of each emitter, the brightness of the Q5 drop-in are equally the same when using one to two cells while the R2 is much dimmer with one cell.

Posts (104) | Reviews (1) | Tip Post
post edited by MRLED on 7/1/2009 at 10:22 AM

ICanuwundra Monday, September 21, 2009 5:02 PM Reply

the board on sku.11836 has changed. Mine came with one looking like this:

img src: http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/4761/dx11836driver.jpg

 

[yobresal]

I've been using this buck driver: 5W w/ max 18V input

It's a drop in fit to many hosts, including this popular one: DIY flashlight shell

That host provides plenty of heatsink room, which I'm taking full advantage of at these powers.
As far as the driver goes, I've had no over heating issues and it seems to be functioning as well as anything that I could build - and hey, it only costs $2 .

I haven't scoped the current spikes and I keep my run times less than 1 minute (roughly)

So far so good .

Dave

That is awesome!!! I am using those too. Man that is so funny. It works great with two CR123A rechargeables in an 18650 jayrob host. They are only $150 each if you buy 10. I bought 10 of them.

 

[Giface]

That is awesome!!! I am using those too. Man that is so funny. It works great with two CR123A rechargeables in an 18650 jayrob host. They are only $150 each if you buy 10. I bought 10 of them.

Oh man you got ripped off!! I got 1 for $1.99. :crackup:

sorry (thanks for the tip though)

Dave

 

[erdabyz]

Driving LED's might be safer than driving laser diodes, but when you work for serious applications you must design your IC's so they don't make nasty things to the diodes even if they can withstand them.
Most LED driving IC's do have protections such as soft start which makes them totally safe to drive a Laser Diode. As far as I know there are NO integrated circuits in the market specificaly designed to drive a laser in CW mode and constant output as we do (there are laser drivers for optical drives or anything that uses modulated laser output, but they are not simple to use for our pourpose)

If they are using a general proupose regulator not intended for diodes, then there could be some spikes, but don't worry, those are timed in nanoseconds or even less, and working at 1A those spikes are already limited by the batteries themselfs or the components parasitic inductance/capacitance/reponse time.

And being linear, chances of getting scary transients decrease.

 

[Giface]

Driving LED's might be safer than driving laser diodes, but when you work for serious applications you must design your IC's so they don't make nasty things to the diodes even if they can withstand them.
Most LED driving IC's do have protections such as soft start which makes them totally safe to drive a Laser Diode. As far as I know there are NO integrated circuits in the market specificaly designed to drive a laser in CW mode and constant output as we do (there are laser drivers for optical drives or anything that uses modulated laser output, but they are not simple to use for our pourpose)

If they are using a general proupose regulator not intended for diodes, then there could be some spikes, but don't worry, those are timed in nanoseconds or even less, and working at 1A those spikes are already limited by the batteries themselfs or the components parasitic inductance/capacitance/reponse time.

And being linear, chances of getting scary transients decrease.

I agree. :beer:

Fortunately, this is not what I consider a 'serious' application. It's just a quick laser pointer assembly to satisfy my unintellectual needs. Besides, the consumables are a $35 diode (that often seems to have super-powers) and a $2 driver (the batteries just live a normal life ). If I wanted to be a little more careful, then filtering the drivers output and adding a heatsink to it would not be hard. But, at these prices, and with the hardiness of this diode, it's just not worth it to me.

I would treat a 12X BD labby with more care .

Dave

 

[resal7]

I might be wrong,but I think that a diode that is made to work with(or at least withstand...) 1 A current ,maybe it also has better durability in current spikes,regulation ripples and other nasty bad habits electrons have...

also i think it makes it less sensitive to static...

Well i don't think that a 50 Watt 808 has the ...sensitivities of an PHR or SF AW.Isn't it like that ?(I don't mean cooling,impact resistance or working enviroment,just driving it..)
Don't get me wrong..:evil:
I don't suggest that we should treat our beloved laser diodes like their light-emmiting(Hey...thats also what laser diodes do...) cousings....
But maybe at these power levels maybe their driving isn't so much different...
Well if somebody is asking for absolute wavelength stability,long runs,really heavy duty cycles,modulation or other hi-end application, then no,this is not a good choice of driver...

if you are just making the forefather of Luke's lightsaber,then it"s just fine...:na:

Also my rule of thumb: Output power is five times less(~20% total efficiency) the input power on DIY laser builts.So if you want to have 1 watt out you should use a 5 watt driver....

 

[vegasf6]

The driver in the OPs flashlight is not a linear driver, simply a non perfect CC buck driver.

Same is true for sku 26110 18V board. It is not a linear solution, it is a buck circuit utilizing the AX2002 regulator. Here is a link to the datasheet
You are not going to see any spikes with a multimeter, the response time is way way too slow.
Also, for those not aware, this driver has successfully been modded to use a pot for dimming. See here.

 

[resal7]

Yes,you are absolutely right...Still it is a decent driver isn't it?I mean it's nowhere near perfect ,but still it can drive a 445 without burning the little monster...BTW ElektroFreak reported a 445 running at 1 watt 24/day for 4 weeks straight....Do you think that this driver will kill that beast?
Can you mod this driver with a capacitor or smthg to eliminate spikes?

 

[vegasf6]

In my opinion it is an excellent driver that I have used many times, to drive light emitting diodes. As to its suitability to drive laser diodes, I remain neutral as that isn't where my experience lies.

I will say that in general, a linear driver though least efficient, will probably be the most stable. Followed by a buck driver, then a boost driver last. Using DC batteries as the power source again should provide a very smooth power source. If using say, straight from a generator/alternator/stator I would be much more concerned. Also, any bounce or ripple would probably be worst at start up. So, a long term test burning for days on end, probably isn't a very good test for the driver. It is probably an excellent test for other things like duty cycle and just how the diode holds up to heat over and extended time.

From reports, these Casio diodes are very durable, but at the same time, I am concerned about the supposed vulnerability to static electricity. If that is true, apparently they are quite susceptible to high voltage, even at very low currents. But, I can say I will be experimenting with them. In fact, I just got my first A140 diode in its module this afternoon. But, no glass lens or safety glasses yet so I am trying to resist (mostly ).