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Thor M II wiring problem< Can somebody please help me !

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Well my problem is when I removed a drive from the diode I didn't pay close enough attention to what leads were on what side of the driver, what I do know for certain is the diode case lead and one of the other two leads were connected together on one side of the driver and the other lead was connected to the driver on the other side BUT I don't know which was positive and which was the negative going to the driver ?


Was the diode positive by it's self going to one side of the driver and the diode negative together with the diode case lead was going to the other side of the driver ?

Or

Was it the diode negative by it's self going to one side of the driver and the diode positive together with the diode case lead was going to the other side of the driver ?

It was one of those two ways but I don't know which way it was ???



Here is a diagram of the way I'm certain it was wired with the unknown being pin 1 and pin 2 as I have labeled them in this diagram for reference here only, In a layout like this with a positive case ground what lead from a case grounded diode would have the diode case lead connected with one of the other two diode leads going to the driver ???



Also I can say with certainty that my diode is like the one in this picture and pin 1 and pin 2 are connected to the driver at the same spot and pin 3 goes to the other side of the driver, So can Pin 1 be a positive lead Or a negative lead and go to the driver with the diode case lead which I know is Pin 2 ?

Or if to go to the driver with the diode case lead Pin 2 it can only be one of them, then what must Pin 1 be ?

 
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I'm assuming it's the driver here?

http://laserpointerforums.com/f67/can-somebody-explain-these-terms-me-99725.html#post1458883

In which case, why not ask all of this in the one thread? Seeing as it's related.

No, you assume wrong, it's the diode. Correct me if I'm wrong but diodes can have the diode case lead in the middle or Pin 2 in my diagram and Pin 1 can be positive with Pin 3 negative Or sometimes the positive and negative can be swapped on some diodes ? is this correct ?
 
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Oops, I meant to link to here when I said here: http://laserpointerforums.com/f67/can-somebody-explain-these-terms-me-99725.html#post1458885

But you are correct, the case pin is isolated from the case, which you can see from the lack of insulation around the pin. Sometimes the case pin is +, sometimes it's N/C, sometimes it's -. They can all be swapped around, just depends on the diode.
Alright you have me confused, You didn't say anything here: "http://laserpointerforums.com/f67/can-somebody-explain-these-terms-me-99725.html#post1458885" Anyways that thread was about the "terms" being used for that driver's connections.

This thread has nothing to do with the drivers, It's about the diodes and in a large part since diodes aren't ever marked which lead is what the ONLY thing you can be certain of is which lead is the diode case lead because it's fused right to the diode case and the other two are isolated from the case, Is that also correct ???
 
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Now knowing what is illustrated in the diagram bellow (case positive host / Pin 1 and Pin 2 are connected together on one side of the driver and Pin 3 is connected to the other side of the driver) can anyone tell me what Pins 1, 2, and 3 must be in this configuration ???



OR what Pins 1, 2, and 3 must be in this configuration ???



Does anyone understand what I'm asking ? I'm not sure I'm coming across clearly....... :confused:
 
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the case pin is isolated from the case, which you can see from the lack of insulation around the pin.

How is the diode case pin isolated from the case if the diode case pin is fused directly to the diode case (Pin 2 above, The lighter circle indicates the Pin is not isolated from the host case) and the diode is pressed into the case as I've illustrated in the posts above diagram and again bellow in a close up of the relevant part of the diagram above ???

 
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Hi,
Ok here is the easy way to connect the driver and diode, The battery tube unscrews from the next part. All that is needed is a 20mm contact board wire it regular pos+ and Neg- then place the board in the pill and screw it down tight . Make the wires long enough to stick out the heat sink. Now solder your wires to the driver done . The diode will be of course soldered to the drive with an aluminum back half. You will have to drill and tap a 4-40 thread in the sink to secure the 12mm module. This way you will be putting in your batteries Pos+ to the diode and Neg- to the tail cap..

Rich:)
 
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Hi,
Ok here is the easy way to connect the driver and diode, The battery tube unscrews from the next part. All that is needed is a 20mm contact board wire it regular pos+ and Neg- then place the board in the pill and screw it down tight . Make the wires long enough to stick out the heat sink. Now solder your wires to the driver done . The diode will be of course soldered to the drive with an aluminum back half. You will have to drill and tap a 4-40 thread in the sink to secure the 12mm module. This way you will be putting in your batteries Pos+ to the diode and Neg- to the tail cap..

Rich:)
I can flip the battery around right now and they still make contact at both ends but how will I know how to wire up the stock diode to the new x-driver I have coming because I have no idea what pinout my diode has because I had a senior moment and I didn't pay close attention to which side of the driver the two diode lead together when to or which side of the driver the remaining diode lead went to ?

How can I tell for sure what pinout my stock diode had ??? I sure don't want to burn up a diode........
 
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Well I still have unanswered questions but my new laser driver will be here tomorrow and it will time to put it together so I guess when that time comes i'll just have to use my best guess and see what happens......
 
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Looking at
The back of the diode there is a detente and at 12 o clock.3 o'clock and 6 o'clock. 12 o'clock is Pos+ red wire and 6 o'clock is Neg- black wire . On the driver there will be Pos+ and Neg - marking . Solder the Pos+ pin to the Pos+ mark and the Neg- pin to the Neg- mark. Now all that is left is to solder your wires the same to the correct marks on the driver. If this won't help you I don't know what to say .
 
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Well I still have unanswered questions but my new laser driver will be here tomorrow and it will time to put it together so I guess when that time comes i'll just have to use my best guess and see what happens......

There is a current set pot on that driver board, so I hope you have made arrangements to set the current the diode will run at. It is not a fixed current driver and will show up set at a random current. if you just install it, it may be set too low to get the power you are looking for or too high and burn out your diode (if it is capable of that much current).
 
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There is a current set pot on that driver board, so I hope you have made arrangements to set the current the diode will run at. It is not a fixed current driver and will show up set at a random current. if you just install it, it may be set too low to get the power you are looking for or too high and burn out your diode (if it is capable of that much current).

No there is not a current set pot because it is fixed x-drive and I asked twice.....

Looking at
The back of the diode there is a detente and at 12 o clock.3 o'clock and 6 o'clock. 12 o'clock is Pos+ red wire and 6 o'clock is Neg- black wire . On the driver there will be Pos+ and Neg - marking . Solder the Pos+ pin to the Pos+ mark and the Neg- pin to the Neg- mark. Now all that is left is to solder your wires the same to the correct marks on the driver. If this won't help you I don't know what to say .

But the thing is the driver does not have a continuous ground and I have read this from another member here....

Most hosts are case negative. If your driver is continuous ground then what you will need to do is bridge the case pin and the negative pin of the diode together. This will supply your driver with the negative from the case of the host. If the driver is not continuous ground then you simply solder a jumper wire from case pin of diode to the drivers negative input side. No worries you will be fine. It seems scary but once all your components are in front of you it will be just fine.

Is that wrong ? If not this is how I'm going to wire it up....



The only difference is the diode in my laser is not isolated am I'm not sure if that diagram depicts whether or not the diode is isolated AND my on/off switch will be between the battery neg and the case and not between the battery pos and the driver.....
 
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I was going by the driver you had on your other thread abut this same set up. That one definitely had a current set pot on it, but maybe you have a different driver in mind. There certainly are fixed current drivers available, but none have a pot on them that I have ever seen.
 
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I was going by the driver you had on your other thread abut this same set up. That one definitely had a current set pot on it, but maybe you have a different driver in mind. There certainly are fixed current drivers available, but none have a pot on them that I have ever seen.
Ya I am using a X-drive V6 1100mA Fixed.....

And I'm going on my final draft of my diagram.....



The X-drive was suppose to be here today but it seems to be stuck somewhere in route, Just my luck..... :can:
 
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