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The right way?

jonasa0601

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Okay, i'll now say what i will do, when i got everything i need:

Put LD in module, solder the right pins to the right places on flexdriver(Can anyone post a pic?(1)), solder the right pins from the driver to the power and from the driver to the button. The button solders on to the (+ or -?(2)) pole.


I read the guide on setting the voltage on a flexdrive(DrLava), and if i got it right, it's like this(before soldering to diode ofc;)):

I would like to have my running at ~120mA, so i have to remove the end resistor and what more(3)? I don't understand what the yellow line shows(4)..
Then i connect dummy load(is it just some LEDs and a resistor? If yes, please tell which to use for a PHR-803T and a LPC-815.(5))

Then i put the selected voltage on, measures the output current, and then adjusts the potentiometer trimmer(What is that, show on pic please.(6))

I hope i got it somehow right. Theres numbers with the questions, so you can write solutions to them :)
 

charliebruce

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You first push the diode into the module. Then you should set the current on your driver. It is normally 6 diodes in series for a PHR, or 4 for a red. A 1 ohm resistor in series with this should help you measure current - the voltage across it is equal to the current through it.

The pinout can be found and is different for blu-rays and reds, but with the "case pin" (center one, without black ring-like bit) facing downwards, positive is to the right. Then, negative is the case pin on reds, or the left-hand one on blu-rays.

The flexdrive configuration depends on the version, but I believe what you have said is correct for v4 (the latest one to date). I haven't used these, but if you still need a hand with it just PM me. Remember to never power it up without a load attatched! The trimmer pot is a small rectangular (white?) box, with a screw-head like wheel on the top.

If you are looking to buy some PHRs, I have some for sale - $18 for a PHR diode, pushed into an Aixiz module. If you would like, for $50, I can pre-set one of the V3 drivers and sell a completed "module", but there's less fun in that for you... ;)
 

jonasa0601

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charlie bruce

Okay, i would ofc set the driver before soldering :)

And i also read about the short circuit thing, that i could damage the driver. Okay, i got it now i think.

I still don't know where to solder on the flexdrive, and i don't quite know what to remove on the flexdrive, to set my custom "mA" :p

That's as cheap as where i will buy mine, but i would like to try doing things myself :)
With help from here ofc, expect more topics from me, when i'm building my laser :)

Btw, i think i need an adjustable power supply, but it seems that they cost >100$? Is this right, or am i just bad at finding such things? :p (It's something like this im looking for right? http://www.koz.dk/picview.asp?pid=1586 )
 

jonasa0601

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Here is a side question :D

I got this leftover cooling fanm and i got these informations:

Rated voltage (V DC) 12.0
Rated current (A) 0.14
Rated input power (W) 1.68

Operating / adjust. voltage (V DC) 6.0 ~ 13.8

I wanna power it with batteries, so i guess i'll need 10 AAA batteries.(Lol :D)

I just wonder about one thing: can i just directly connect the batteries, or should i have some kind of current limiting on, or does it regulate on its own? :)
 

jonasa0601

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I were at an electronic store today, he had an adjustable power supply for 85 dollars, it was the cheapest he had. 12V adjustable and up to 2 Amper. The voltage was adjustable. He said that a circuit takes the current it needs, is this right? So i don't need adjustable current? Please answer :))
 

Warske

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jonasa0601 said:
...cooling fanm
Rated voltage (V DC) 12.0
Rated current (A) 0.14
Rated input power (W) 1.68
Operating / adjust. voltage (V DC) 6.0 ~ 13.8

I wanna power it with batteries, so i guess i'll need 10 AAA batteries.(Lol :D)

I just wonder about one thing: can i just directly connect the batteries, or should i have some kind of current limiting on, or does it regulate on its own? :)
Directly connect to the batteries, but make sure the batteries don't give more than 13.8 v. If they do, use fewer batteries.

jonasa0601 said:
He said that a circuit takes the current it needs, is this right? So i don't need adjustable current? Please answer :))
Right for the fan, not right for laser diodes.
 

jonasa0601

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@Warske

Okay :/ Why?

Do you think i should buy a both voltage and current adjustable powersupply, or just voltage? I mean, how many things need adjustable current? I'll use the power supply to find out voltage and current of general items i step over in the future :) I think it would be handy to have one :)
 

Warske

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jonasa0601 said:
Okay :/ Why?
This might help explain why: http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1236708473/0#7

Do you think i should buy a both voltage and current adjustable powersupply, or just voltage?
Adjustable current on a bench power supply is "nice" but you probably don't "need" it. For laser diodes, I usually use a variable voltage power supply with a 60 ohm 20 watt series resistor. To put 100 mA through a red laser diode which will run at about 3 v, I put the resistor in series with the diode, and crank up the voltage until I get to 100 mA. Ohms law tells you the resistor will have .1 * 60 = 6 volts on it. That is, I put a volt meter across the resistor and crank it up until I get 6 v. The power supply will be up to 3 + 6 = 9v. If the diode voltage varies by a few tenths of a volt, it still gets close to 100 mA. The trick is to use the right resistor. 1 ohm would not be good because it won't give good current regulation. 1000 ohms gives good current regulation but you need a high voltage power supply to make it work, and the resistor dumps a lot of power. See?

OTOH, if you have a variable current power supply, you don't need the resistor or the calculator. Not a big savings.

I mean, how many things need adjustable current?
Not many. LEDs and Laser Diodes come to mind. Its good for charging batteries too. Maybe electroplating.
 

jonasa0601

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Okay.. I made a battery holder for 10 AAA's, and it worked fine, but it turned very hot very fast, why? It turned hot before i connected it to the fan. I used alkalines.

Can someone tell me where to solder on the flexdrive, and what things to remove etc for setting it on 100-1xx mA?
 

jonasa0601

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Okay daguin.

I've read the guide twice, but i dont know what the yellow line means? Can you explain?
 

iskor12

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jonasa0601 said:
Okay daguin.

I've read the guide twice, but i dont know what the yellow line means? Can you explain?
It means that you should solder together where the yellow line is. If one of the resistors has an X on it, then remove that resistor.

Direct quote from instructions, "The Micro FlexDrive has four output current ranges, listed in the diagram below. Each range listed in
approximate, there is variation from unit to unit so test the closest range to your desired current and work your way
up or down the scale. Removing the end resistor has the effect of decreasing the output current slightly when you
are in ranges 2-4. The default 65-100mA range requires no changes. The other ranges require solder jumpers as
shown, or the end resistor to be removed (scraped off is OK) when there is an x on it. To adjust and set the diver
current, a load is required. A series of 3 or 4 1N4001 diodes and a 1 to 0.2 ohm resistor is recommended for use as a
dummy load. Use the Voltage across the dummt load resistor to determine current. Output current is adjusted via
the potentiometer trimmer. An insulated screwdriver and a light touch are recommended for adjustment."
 




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