The Audio Thread

[The Lightning Stalker]

This is a place where we can share tips and techniques, technical data, and other
information about music and audio equipment. Weather they be amps, subs, horns, bells
& whistles, buzzers, sirens, or anything else that makes a sound, anything goes. Please
feel free to share you innermost thoughts and yearnings pertaining to the propagation of
this Other type of energy waves.

As you may not have known, I have been a mobile audio and other high power/quality
sound enthusiast for many years. Let's get the thread started off with a little something I
have been looking at recently.

It is a very special subwoofer amplifier made by Phoenix Gold and known only as "The
One". It is a class-D mobile device with an output of 18kW RMS @ 16V into 1 ohm. They
are designed to be "strapped", which means 2 of them can be connected in series, yielding
36kW RMS @ 16V into 2 ohms. The MSRP is rumored to be around $6,000 apiece, so
I'm not going to be buying one of these any time soon. When you do the math though
$3/watt isn't really all that bad. Individual results will vary.

PDF Manual Link

 

[djQUAN]

Not really much but this is what I have in my car:

LINK

 

[millirad]

Nice! If I may direct your attention here?

AMB Laboratories DIY Audio Site

This is a place where we can share tips and techniques, technical data, and other
information about music and audio equipment. Weather they be amps, subs, horns, bells
& whistles, buzzers, sirens, or anything else that makes a sound, anything goes. Please
feel free to share you innermost thoughts and yearnings pertaining to the propagation of
this Other type of energy waves.

As you may not have known, I have been a mobile audio and other high power/quality
sound enthusiast for many years. Let's get the thread started off with a little something I
have been looking at recently.

It is a very special subwoofer amplifier made by Phoenix Gold and known only as "The
One". It is a class-D mobile device with an output of 18kW RMS @ 16V into 1 ohm. They
are designed to be "strapped", which means 2 of them can be connected in series, yielding
36kW RMS @ 16V into 2 ohms. The MSRP is rumored to be around $6,000 apiece, so
I'm not going to be buying one of these any time soon. When you do the math though
$3/watt isn't really all that bad. Individual results will vary.

PDF Manual Link

 

[Cyparagon]

18kW RMS @ 16V into 1 ohm.

How does that math work?

 

[ped]

uh oh..

What's that in amps?

On a lighter note, I'm a qualified sound engineer, which is, incidentally , how I got into electronics.

 

[Sigurthr]

I did not know that, Ped, interesting! I may pester you with questions from time to time if you don't mind.

Delving into those worms; I^2 = P * R, so Irms = 268.32A. To push 268.32A through 2-Ohms it takes 536.65Volts.

Perhaps what was meant is that no speaker should have an impedance above 2Ohms?

 

[Cyparagon]

Oh, 16V input makes a little more sense. But of course if you need several hundred volts on the output stage, why is it designed for 16V input? Surely not car audio... A car's electrical system cannot supply 3000A.

 

[Speedy78]

Apperently you have not seen rows of batteries in a competition vehicle. Im sure sometging like 14 batteries on the floor of a explorer could supply that. I doubt this amp is designed for the guy with a Honda and 2 10s in his trunk.

 

[Pman]

Not into car stereo anymore but own a stupid amount of home theatre and stereo equipment.

 

[djQUAN]

Apperently you have not seen rows of batteries in a competition vehicle. Im sure sometging like 14 batteries on the floor of a explorer could supply that. I doubt this amp is designed for the guy with a Honda and 2 10s in his trunk.

plus it only plays a sine wave at full clipping for about 3 seconds until the subs burst into flames :shhh:

Not into car stereo anymore but own a stupid amount of home theatre and stereo equipment.

My home stereo is just a DAC, 300W/Ch DIY amp and B&W bookshelf speakers.

 

[Sigurthr]

My stereo (the one I actually listen to most) consists of my computer and a cheap $15 15Watt-rms 3 piece PC speaker system. I mapped out the nulls and resonances in its frequency response and then corrected for them with a system-wide GEQ on my sound card. Sounds beautiful now. It gets loud enough considering this room is about 10ft x 8ft by 8ft.

 

[IsaacT]

Well maybe not what yall are thinking about but I am deciding on a headset to use for gaming. Anybody know of a good pair for less than 150?

I have been thinking about The Steelseries Siberia V2's.


My excuse: you did say anything that is sound related.

 

[Speedy78]

I have the corsair vengeance 2000. Wireless. Slightly above your budget but very comfortabale and sound amazing. Only downside I have is there is no mute button for the mic, only a volume adjustment.

 

[IsaacT]

The Corsair 1500 was another I was considering. And because I work at best buy now I get the headsets for much cheaper. Just have to be able to find it there for the lower price haha

 

[Speedy78]

I opted for the wireless version. Im sure the 1500 has the same internals. I like to be able to gwt up and move to get some more whiskey during my BF4 session and still talk to people on teamspeak. You can run it plugged in as well so no worries there.

 

[IsaacT]

I ended up doing tons of research and buying a pair of Audio-Technica ATH-M50 headphones. I guess I can get a mic someday for gaming but right now I am just enjoying the great audio quality. Now the shutterbug and audiobug has bit me. And I am back into lasers while I have time between semesters.

Come back money.