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SLD1239JL-54 at 400ma on homemade labby

sbdwag

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Here's some pics of my semi labby I whipped up to play with. I tried 200, 300, 350 and then why not? 400ma's on this. Ive got enough copper wrapped around the AixiZ module to sink all the heat so that should not be a problem. Ive got a glass lens on it also. I will probably make a aluminum enclosure for it and put a nice push button switch on it in the future but for now Im burning things. I put a jumper on it so I could detach the LD module and set the current then ( short out the capacitance) and re attach the LD module.
Im running a 9v 780ma wallwart for power.








regards
sbdwag
 



Benm

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Where did you get that block?

I'm looking for something similar (but more flat and wide) to connect the module to a tec plate.

The 1239 diodes arent the most durable around though - suprising it does survive 400 mA regarldess of cooling.
 

sbdwag

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Ive got a bunch of copper bar stock left over from my days of watercooling cpu's and I just reamed a 12mm hole thru it the sawed it and bolted thru. I can screw it tight againts the module then. You can order copper bar stock from MSCdirect but you have to have someone to saw it. Luckly I am a designer in a Machine shop so I have access to anything I need. Right now coppers about 6.50 a pound so expect to pay a fortune for it.


By the way I used this copper to make a active cooling device for my cpu by sinking a 1.5"x1.5" pelter to it with water lines in it then pumping the water thru a small motorcycle radiator with fans blowing thru it. Man I could overclock that cpu. Kept it running about -15C.



Yep I know Im pushing this LD at 400ma but what the heak If it blows Ill put a LOC Ive got waiting in the wings.

regard
sbdwag
 
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ElektroFreak

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Nothing wrong with that at all. I like the integrated test load. Very clean work..
 

sbdwag

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Build a case around it, put a switch and rubber feet on it so it wouldnt slide around. Starting to look like a real Labby









Burn, Baby Burn
regards
sbdwag
 

larrball

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Nice work sbdwag,
Oh and BTW is that bread Bord from radio shack?
 

ElektroFreak

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Just watch out using those screw-terminal type connectors for connecting the diode. All connections between the diode and the driver should be soldered well to avoid any possible bad connection. Of course ultimately it's up to you, but it is recommended never to use any "quick-disconnect" method.
 

Meatball

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those radioshack parts work well don't they? :D I like copper block you have!
 

sbdwag

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Just watch out using those screw-terminal type connectors for connecting the diode. All connections between the diode and the driver should be soldered well to avoid any possible bad connection. Of course ultimately it's up to you, but it is recommended never to use any "quick-disconnect" method.
Why would quick connectors be a problem. If you short out any voltage left in the capacitor before reconnecting. the worst thing that could happen would be increased resistance across the connection. Heat buildup, voltage drop, maybe some capacitance ? Im not sure.

regards
sbdwag
 

sbdwag

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those radioshack parts work well don't they? :D I like copper block you have!

Thanks Meatball

Im going to build a 1 watt IR labby along the same lines. I will probably use the same type of copper block. Dropping 1 watt of heat across this much of a sink should not be a problem. I may add some Artic Silver heat transfer compound to the module to make the tranfer more efficient.

I will see how it goes.


Regards
sbdwag
 




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