Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

LPF Donation via Stripe | LPF Donation - Other Methods

Links below open in new window

ArcticMyst Security by Avery

"Screw-in" diode module?

Joined
Jul 29, 2015
Messages
12
Points
0
Hi all,
I tried the search for this and google but found nothing. I have a cheap module from Lilly's:

link= amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RHLDP3E/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1438241248&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=laser+housing&dpPl=1&dpID=31cWI4aHLRL&ref=plSrch

The diode is not pressed in, it is screwed in by the thredded gold colored ring. I like the idea of being able to easily change diodes without damaging them, so why can't I find any higher quality modules (or ANY others) with this feature? Are there drawbacks? I feel like I'm missing something here, if someone could educate me it would be greatly appreciated.

Scott
 





Joined
Feb 24, 2014
Messages
1,425
Points
83
that is because most of those kind of modules are crap! If you are going to build some thing like a laser it is better to use the good parts than using some thing that may or may not work
 
Joined
Sep 13, 2008
Messages
487
Points
43
Hello , please clearify what you mean by "junk". Are you referring to the module material, design, or the mechanism of metal to metal contact ? If you are referring to the screw mechanism, then that would also include Rick Trents module/heat sink. It's a vey fine heat sink that has no diode pressing needed.
 
Joined
Nov 1, 2014
Messages
662
Points
28
Hello , please clearify what you mean by "junk". Are you referring to the module material, design, or the mechanism of metal to metal contact ? If you are referring to the screw mechanism, then that would also include Rick Trents module/heat sink. It's a vey fine heat sink that has no diode pressing needed.
What he means is the quality isn't good. From what I know, the module you are talking about requires a heat sink. The module itself is not sufficient
 
Last edited:

Pman

0
Joined
Nov 28, 2012
Messages
4,447
Points
113
I'm confused looking at that setup. What's actually touching the diode for a heat-sink like ^ alluded too.
The heat-sinks that Moh is selling that can screw into each other for his MXL T6 have been tested by DTR and work extremely well providing much better thermal conductivity than a standard 12mm module. He tested using the new 6W diode and said his output was rock steady. Don't know if there are any other sinks made that way though yet. I personally own one of Mohs T6 with a 9mm in it using that sink.
 
Joined
Jul 29, 2015
Messages
12
Points
0
that is because most of those kind of modules are crap! If you are going to build some thing like a laser it is better to use the good parts than using some thing that may or may not work

I agree, I'm just trying to figure out why. The particular one I have I can tell is low quality because it was cheap, made of steel, loose tolerances. It is not impossible to utilize this design in a high quality build, so I'm wondering why.

I'm confused looking at that setup. What's actually touching the diode for a heat-sink like ^ alluded too.
The heat-sinks that Moh is selling that can screw into each other for his MXL T6 have been tested by DTR and work extremely well providing much better thermal conductivity than a standard 12mm module. He tested using the new 6W diode and said his output was rock steady. Don't know if there are any other sinks made that way though yet. I personally own one of Mohs T6 with a 9mm in it using that sink.

On the front piece (heatsink) the diode is not pressed in, the gold colored ring slips around the sides of the diode and that is screwed in to the heatsink. The 4th image in the link is the only one you can see it on.
 
Last edited:

Pman

0
Joined
Nov 28, 2012
Messages
4,447
Points
113
So basically the sides of the diode will touch the side wall. If that is so it better be really tight screwing in or I wouldn't trust it at all. In other words when you unscrew it the diode should be stuck to the wall still or I don't see it making good contact.
 
Joined
Jul 29, 2015
Messages
12
Points
0
So basically the sides of the diode will touch the side wall. If that is so it better be really tight screwing in or I wouldn't trust it at all. In other words when you unscrew it the diode should be stuck to the wall still or I don't see it making good contact.

Its a snug fit, but not so tight you need tools to get it in or out. There's also as much contact on the bottom of the diode as you can get without interfering with leads. So I guess heat dissipation is what would be in question here?
 
Joined
Jan 2, 2008
Messages
1,513
Points
83
Check out the original 9mm Meredith modules that are no longer made. They were not press fit for the 9mm if I recall correctly. And the 5.6 modules had a collar they pressed into which slipped into the 9mm housing, so a similar idea was used commercially, if I understand the concept of this.

Pricey guys at the time (7 years ago) but they weren't very good for heatsinking, however the glass from them is still AFAIK the best red glass that was available.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
2,431
Points
83
On a similar question, has anyone ever used one of these?
462nm 9mm TO5 Laser Diode Case Laser Diode Modue Host with 462nm Glass Lens | eBay

My intention is to use it for an NDB7675 which is going to be overdriven really hard.

My reasons for wanting this host are:
a) fan
b) it's going to be a box build anyways
c) I don't have press tools - I'll buy the set eventually, but our post offices are screwing things up lately so I'd rather do that later in case it gets lost in transit
 
Last edited:




Top