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Proper connection's?

GSS

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I will start of by mentioning I can't post pic's which would make a world of difference especially to what this is about:eek:
I found more interest in modding the "Rubies" brand Star Trek TOS phaser. These are basicly halloween props with just sound that are colored all blue and orange for safety but are very close to the original props. "nothing that paint can't help"
I have one fixed with a nice hunk of AL heatsink that Lifetime machined but there is so much room in these that it will take a whole complete 501b module/diode/driver unit and it will stick out to look very close to the original prop nozzle. The clear acrylic emitter tip I will figure out later.
Now as I have about 5 501b's at different WL's and strength and i'm getting a bit stagnant and bored from lack of being able to play with these laser's like I want, I want to be able to swap out these 501's to the phaser kinda on the fly to change my WL choices but keep the modules in tack to able to put them back to the hosts.
Plan is to tap a 4-40 to the side of the sink that's hidden to screw the "neg" wire and somehow clip without solder the "pos" wire to the back battery spring.
Long long story:whistle: should there be any issue's without using solder as far as voltage spikes or other issue's.
 
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grainde

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Connecting and disconnecting bare diodes is an issue, however if you are talking about complete modules with drivers attached, you won't have any problems. Just make sure the connection is able to withstand vibrations etc, you don't want it turning on when you think its switched off. :beer:
 

GSS

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Thanks grainde, oh yes these are the complete plop in to the host modules which would make it all the fun to swap between phaser and original 501 host.
As the phaser handle originally holds 2 AAA's for the sound board "no LED's" I disconnected that and gave the sound board its own seperate 3 button cells "which is actually louder" and am using the handle now to power the laser diode with 2 10440's, with the phaser trigger now hitting a fastech micro switch rated at 5A. I guess the safety would be swapping modules with the batteries out. But I see what you mean with vibrations.
Wondering what type of screw clip I could securely hook up to the battery spring though?
It would be nice to play with a 2W 450 and change it over to a 200mw 520 kinda quick.

It would be kinda cool to have a setup like DTR's vapemod module's...
 
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Lifetime17

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Hi GSS
Ok I have the measurements from the sink I made for you. Basics I can keep those numbers and and make it long as a 501B sink so it holds a module,diode and driver. From the leads that are attached to DTR module attache two small insulated male and female quick dissconect so you can just change out you WL done
Easy my man

Rich):
 
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GSS

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Cool, male and female quick disconnects. Even simpler:thinking::) I think your mentioning sliding out the module, driver itself through what would be a permanent nozzle setup and sink. To keep it clean and easier I would see no reason for thermal paste. The fun of these props is just as fun with shorter blasts as long as you have that phaser sound..
Will talk through some emails on this as always.
 
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