Please help me! (i need driver to 2W 445nm diode)

[aple545]

Hey! i need you guys help! i bought an 2W diode Here is the LINK and the video that i would use for help to put together: LINK
under the video ther are everything that i will need for it but in the video the guy use an 1W laser diode and im not sure that "driver" is good for my 2w diode. I found some driver for 2W diode but the parameters is not the same and i dont know which one is would be perfect for my diode.
LINK-1
LINK-2
LINK-3
LINK-4
And i have an other question, the question is how many V is needed for the diode? if im right its between 6V and 12V. if its right than 2 of 3.6V battery(7.2V) is enough for it?
Thank for you guys help!

 

[Pi R Squared]

Hey! i need you guys help! i bought an 2W diode Here is the LINK and the video that i would use for help to put together: LINK
under the video ther are everything that i will need for it but in the video the guy use an 1W laser diode and im not sure that "driver" is good for my 2w diode. I found some driver for 2W diode but the parameters is not the same and i dont know which one is would be perfect for my diode.
LINK-1
LINK-2
LINK-3
LINK-4
And i have an other question, the question is how many V is needed for the diode? if im right its between 6V and 12V. if its right than 2 of 3.6V battery(7.2V) is enough for it?
Thank for you guys help!

Well you bought the right M140 module with lens and I assume you are building it in a C6 host like in the video, the video isn't bad but it seems a little incomplete. For a C6 you need a 16.8/17mm round driver, anything from 1.25A to 1.8A. You don't worry about V for the diode, the driver will handle that, you need to be concerned with what V the driver needs. This will be 1 or 2 Li-ion batteries depending on the driver and in a C6 that will be 2 16340's or 1 18650. Another place you can buy the parts you need is: Survival Laser International Home for more info on assembling a laser like this have a look at the 2 links in my signature, the ones in white.

 

[KRNAZNBOY]

Never buy drivers from feebay... Do you want a boost driver or a buck driver? With a boost driver, you will be spending about $5 more but you can use a single cell 18650 in the host, while with a buck driver, you have to use two 16340s or two 18340s.

For a boost driver see lazeerer. Just look him up in the search bar and PM him.

For a buck driver see foulmist or mohrenberg. Or just look at DTR's site: https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/flexdrives

You can also get a blank 17mm PCB and then use a rectangular driver.

Good luck
:beer:
-Matt

 

[Pi R Squared]

Never buy drivers from feebay... Do you want a boost driver or a buck driver? With a boost driver, you will be spending about $5 more but you can use a single cell 18650 in the host, while with a buck driver, you have to use two 16340s or two 18340s.

For a boost driver see lazeerer. Just look him up in the search bar and PM him.

For a buck driver see foulmist or mohrenberg. Or just look at DTR's site: https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/flexdrives

You can also get a blank 17mm PCB and then use a rectangular driver.

Good luck
:beer:
-Matt

Mohrenberg went out of business, he posted his last few parts for sale day before yesterday: http://laserpointerforums.com/f39/fs-c6-sinks-grooves-modules-focus-adapters-86187.html
I never heard of an 18340, I assume you meant 18350, you can't use 18350's in a C6 they don't fit, I have some and I tried it, you can't even screw the tail cap part way on.
To use a rectangular driver and a round battery contact board you need to use a drilled out pill like this: Drilled Pill & Brass Ring or there wont be enough room.

Alan

 

[KRNAZNBOY]

yea thats what i meant, sorry. Huh, i thought they fit...

Or you could get one of DTR diodes with the driver soldered to the diode and then connect the leads to a blank PCB.

:beer:

 

[The Lightning Stalker]

I hope you got safety glasses.

That said, what is "good" for your diode will depend on your definition of "good." A 1W driver
will not harm your 2W diode. It will, however not be using it to its full potential. Now all of
those drivers you linked to will be fine. The last one should be alright because people have
been using it for laser diodes without incident, but this is not the case with all LED drivers.
Also, it is only 1.25A, so again not using your diode to its full potential. So that leaves the
first three.

These are adjustable drivers, so unless you have measured electrical current before there is a
bit of a learning curve. Also you need a dummy load (sold by jufran here on the forums) to
attach to the driver during testing. You don't want to risk overturning the pot and blowing your
precious diode. So you set your desired current with the dummy and then attach your diode.
Don't ever adjust it with the diode attached.

 

[aple545]

I hope you got safety glasses.

That said, what is "good" for your diode will depend on your definition of "good." A 1W driver
will not harm your 2W diode. It will, however not be using it to its full potential. Now all of
those drivers you linked to will be fine. The last one should be alright because people have
been using it for laser diodes without incident, but this is not the case with all LED drivers.
Also, it is only 1.25A, so again not using your diode to its full potential. So that leaves the
first three.

These are adjustable drivers, so unless you have measured electrical current before there is a
bit of a learning curve. Also you need a dummy load (sold by jufran here on the forums) to
attach to the driver during testing. You don't want to risk overturning the pot and blowing your
precious diode. So you set your desired current with the dummy and then attach your diode.
Don't ever adjust it with the diode attached.

I have a friend who is electrian and he has everything that will needed for the driver setup. just please tell me the value that i will need to config the driver.
if later i wish to use the laser with two 18650 battery will i need to reconfig the driver? i ask it because 2 18650 battery together is 7.4 V.

 

[The Lightning Stalker]

That driver is only good for one cell according to the info on that page. In order to use 2 cells, they
would have to be in parallel.

Those cells, I don't know, but for the charger I recommend either the Nitecore i2 or i4.

So did you get the safety glasses? A reflection off a shiny surface like glass, clear plastic, or even the
floor will permanently burn you retina at the very least. Even looking at the "dot" is very bad.
There is no way to be safe with this laser without LSGs.

 

[aple545]

Well you bought the right M140 module with lens and I assume you are building it in a C6 host like in the video, the video isn't bad but it seems a little incomplete. For a C6 you need a 16.8/17mm round driver, anything from 1.25A to 1.8A. You don't worry about V for the diode, the driver will handle that, you need to be concerned with what V the driver needs. This will be 1 or 2 Li-ion batteries depending on the driver and in a C6 that will be 2 16340's or 1 18650. Another place you can buy the parts you need is: Survival Laser International Home for more info on assembling a laser like this have a look at the 2 links in my signature, the ones in white.

Thanks for everybodies help! from your comments i choose thats:
Charger
Battery
Driver
Is it good?

 

[The Lightning Stalker]

Absolutely not! This is all very very bad if you do not have eye protection!
:lasergun:

 

[aple545]

Absolutely not! This is all very very bad if you do not have eye protection!
:lasergun:

don't worry, i have eye protection. This
So please tell me the value that i will need to config the driver. Eg: 1.2A, 2W, or what ?

 

[The Lightning Stalker]

don't worry, i have eye protection. This

Okay, but I'm still worried. Some of those eBay glasses do almost nothing. Be careful.
Your friend the electrian will need safety glass as well, or else the person not doing the
adjustments will have to leave the room.

So please tell me the value that i will need to config the driver. Eg: 1.2A, 2W, or what ?

I don't know what host you're using. The setpoint depends on what host you're using.
Since you don't have an LPM, you are setting the current, not the wattage. Have you
purchased a dummy load from jufran? All you have to do is attach the dummy load and
measure the voltage across the resistor. The voltage is equal to the current. 1A = 1V, etc.

Start at 1.8A and see how quickly your host warms up. If you don't get as long of a duty
cycle as you want, keep dialing it down until you get an on time you find acceptable.

That charger is . . . get a Nitecore.

 

[nsielaff23]

Hello there.
Noob here.
I hope I am not too late to the conversation!!
If the driver is a select-able driver (like what jufran sells), then don't we actually need at least a range of voltage that the diode can handle so we "select" the right jumper on the board?
Or I am I missing something?

 

[Flaminpyro]

If you want to get a X-drive from me I'll make sure it's the right one and set to the proper current for your diode, they are $20.00 each plus shipping.

Hello there.
Noob here.
I hope I am not too late to the conversation!!
If the driver is a select-able driver (like what jufran sells), then don't we actually need at least a range of voltage that the diode can handle so we "select" the right jumper on the board?
Or I am I missing something?

 

[The Lightning Stalker]

Current, not voltage!

 

[nsielaff23]

All due respect Lightning, I do actually mean voltage... I think...
Please correct the following as needed:
My understanding (narrow as it may be) is that the M140 445nm diode operates best between 1.5A to 1.8A (consensus seems to say 1.7A). The drivers that are "set" at a particular amperage typically also indicate the ideal voltage (battery size/s) to use. These combined with efficiencies produce the wattage of said diode.

My question, provided my previous ramble is mostly accurate, is:
If I DON'T use a fixed driver (and yes I DO understand the buck, boost, buck/boost types), don't I need to have a basic range of voltage as a starting place to make sure my batteries provide sufficient VOLTAGE to the driver and consequently the diode? When I get a dummy driver (two already ordered from Jufran88) I can measure voltage drop over the diodes which represents the voltage requirement of the diode. Right???