Planning my first 445 and one question.

[alf638]

Ok, I am planning my first 445 build; I have built locs and some irs in the past and own an ArIon so I think I can handle the power
I plan to use a guidesman host which is on the way, a flexdrive v5 and maybe an olike 445 lens.
I want to run this diode at 1.5-1.6W and I think I should use around 1400ma for this, is this right?
Also I think i will get the a140 from stonetek or maybe from dtr, any other recomendations?
Thanks for reading my thread and if I am missing anything please let me know. Pre thankyou for all replies.

 

[GBD]

On average you will get around that power with 1.4A input (will vary from diode to diode).
I can definatly vouch for the O-like lens (the half threaded ones that come with thier module). Ive pushed 2W through them and the lens took it just fine. thier divergance also isnt bad either and is pretty good IMO considering the fact that your using a multimode 445nm diode.

I also never used the guidesman host before, but from what I read the heatsink in it should be just fine for a 1.5W build.

 

[Coherent Light]

It will depend on the efficiency of your diode as to what the output will be for a set ma. 1400ma should be in the range of 1300mW-1500mW, but thats about as close as you can get until you meter the output. A jayrob Lens will give you a more bang for your buck over the standard 445 AR Lens. You can't go wrong by using anyone who sells 445 diodes here on LPF. You will have to have Laser Safety Glasses covering 445nm, and it's not an option!

 

[Tonga]

DTR and Dave from LPF are good sources for the 445 diodes. I also have experience with Jayrob's lenses and they are superb in quality and performance. Good luck, show your finished build!

 

[bhwollen]

Everyone above has good info.
Don't be like me and forget the batteries and charger!!!

 

[alf638]

Alright, thanks I already have 445 safety glasses, I think i will run it at about 1400-1450ma and I am going to buy an olike lens. Should be done in about a month because the postage takes so long to australia, when I finish it i'll add a link to this thread. Thanks for all your help and I can't wait to finish this build.:yh:

 

[DTR]

Alright, thanks I already have 445 safety glasses, I think i will run it at about 1400-1450ma and I am going to buy an olike lens. Should be done in about a month because the postage takes so long to australia, when I finish it i'll add a link to this thread. Thanks for all your help and I can't wait to finish this build.:yh:

The flexdrivers pot is a bit touchy up above 1.2A so you will probably will just go from 1.2A straight to MAX with a very small turn. It is not easy to be specific with the current when in that range for the flex. The max is typically around 1450-1550mA. Also take a look at how to heatsink the driver when running that high.

I have a guidesman's host I did in this thread. You can also just sink it to the back of the heatsink but it will hang over the edge a little and could be knocked off pretty easy.:beer:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/f...-driver-duty-cycle-1-5a-56404.html#post796360

 

[alf638]

Yeah, I saw that build when I was planning mine it was probably the most use of any 445 build i have seen so thanks for posting it . So if I did just run it at max what would the output be and how stable would it be?
I plan to either heatsink the flexdrive to the main heatsink or maybe with a small piece of alluminium or copper.
Also I think I might buy the diode from you; do you offer any other shipping methods besides priority post?

 

[DTR]

Yeah, I saw that build when I was planning mine it was probably the most use of any 445 build i have seen so thanks for posting it . So if I did just run it at max what would the output be and how stable would it be?
I plan to either heatsink the flexdrive to the main heatsink or maybe with a small piece of alluminium or copper.
Also I think I might buy the diode from you; do you offer any other shipping methods besides priority post?

If you have it set to 1.5A it will give you around 1.4W with an Aixiz glass lens and around 1.6W with a G-1 +/- 100mW depending on diode efficiency.

The key is to have the entire host as the driver heatsink. What every you sink it to make sure it is in good thermal contact with either the heatsink or the host body. If you just use a small piece of aluminum you are just delaying the overheating by a very short time. The heat needs to be able to go somewhere. Like with my coin mod the heat is just being transferred from the driver through the coin into the host body.

I have found Priority mail is the most reliable inexpensive solution. But if you want it first class I can do that but don't suggest it. With priority mail it actually shows the package has been sent and to the correct address when printed out of Paypal.:beer:

 

[alf638]

Ok I think I will heatsink it to the main heatsink. Thanks for the info, I think I will set it at 1.5A. I'll PM you when I have money again and can afford the diode. (I have been buying alot of laser related stuff lately).

 

[DrSid]

What about two drivers ? I know, it's expansive .. but then you don't have to heatsink the drivers at all, they will run more effectively, and current can be set more easily. You can also push it harder, if you feel brave.
In my 1.5W build (check sig), driver heat is the limiting factor. FlexDrive is not ideally suited for 1.5W. I plan this upgrade sometimes in the future.

 

[DTR]

What about two drivers ? I know, it's expansive .. but then you don't have to heatsink the drivers at all, they will run more effectively, and current can be set more easily. You can also push it harder, if you feel brave.
In my 1.5W build (check sig), driver heat is the limiting factor. FlexDrive is not ideally suited for 1.5W. I plan this upgrade sometimes in the future.

On your build is the heatsink for the driver in solid thermal contact with the host body or the heatsink? Or did you just put a piece of aluminum on the driver and pack it in the pill? I have been able to run a flexdrive for 30 minutes @ 1.5A with sinking it to the host body.

 

[DrSid]

It's just a pill .. it's not connected to the body. That would certainly help. But since I don't have lathe and I can't make myself new heatsinks (this one is made by Jayrob), two drivers will be easier .. and probably even cheaper compared to heatsink made by someone else.
Since the driver is told not to need any cooling at half the current, ti also must be much more effective, then when it's pushed to the limits. It would be interesting to compare battery current for cooled 1 driver vs. 2 drivers.

Btw. my cycle time is about 5 minutes, when it's room temperature .. then it starts flashing. The driver heatsink is burning hot at this moment, diode heatsink warm, battery cool.

 

[DTR]

It's just a pill .. it's not connected to the body. That would certainly help. But since I don't have lathe and I can't make myself new heatsinks (this one is made by Jayrob), two drivers will be easier .. and probably even cheaper compared to heatsink made by someone else.
Since the driver is told not to need any cooling at half the current, ti also must be much more effective, then when it's pushed to the limits. It would be interesting to compare battery current for cooled 1 driver vs. 2 drivers.

Btw. my cycle time is about 5 minutes, when it's room temperature .. then it starts flashing. The driver heatsink is burning hot at this moment, diode heatsink warm, battery cool.

The driver heatsink I did on the guidesman in my thread cost $1. Hard to beat that.

Two drivers is nice if you want to push past 1.5A. I am not sure about the drivers being more efficient. I did one last night with dual drivers set to 1.8A and it was drawing 2.3A @ 4.2V.

 

[alf638]

Basically this build is just to give me a taste of 445 as cheaply as I can while still being good quality. After I have used it for a while I will probably add another flexdrive but for now just one.