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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

New Style 200mw O-Like Module Review

Joined
Sep 28, 2009
Messages
139
Points
18
Hi all
I recently took a gamble and purchased the new Style 200mw green module from O-Like $136 delivered!
I've decided to share my findings In the hope it will benefit others.
I will be as descriptive and as accurate as possible.

I know allot of you want to compare this module to the DX 200mw equivalent.
JayRob has already stated his 200mw DX puts out about 105mW's, which I consider is still a real bargain @ $46.81 delivered!

One important downside to this review is that I do not have an LPM to date. However have someone in mind in the UK who may be willing to help.
Some of the negative aspects of this new module that we've established so far are:

1. module cannot be shortened like the old style
2. Voltage range is less flexible Only 3v ~ 3.7v peak! ,Compared to the old style 3v ~ 4.2v (great for higher capacity batt’s)
3. 1000mA Draw "on the O-Like"

Despite these negatives, there is no indication that the old style 200mw modules from O-Like will ever be repeated!
Hence another reason I took the plunge.

The module arrived mailed as a "scanner component engineers sample",
In a sealed anti static sleeve which I thought was a nice touch in evading customs.

I will be driving my alleged 180-200mw O-Like with a 3v Tenergy 900mah RCR123a battery,
which is the best battery I could find for this module to date for my requirements.
I am now using the Tenergy charger which was advised for this battery by the manufacture.
On there website it states the charger is not compatible with Tenergy RCR123a 750mAh batteries,
The actual charger output is in fact 4.5v DC @ 260mh.

On my meter, the charged 3v Tenery battery which I first charged with my UltraFire set @3v was peaking at 3.63 volts
which is perfect for this module
1296-p1040996.jpg

Just remember anything over 3.7v will potentially kill this module.

First job was to bi-pass the new style four legged switch which is done by bridging x2 of the legs on either side of the switch.
I used 0.50 piano wire for this. Thanks to Jayrob for quickly confirming this!

One thing I noticed about the O-Like module is that the dimensions are incorrect!
On the website it is stated that the module is 12mm in diameter
In fact the correct diameter "for my module at least" is 11.90mm, So quickly informed Ehgemus about this,
as he's making me a custom host for this particular module with a 11.91 bore as soon as he's well again.
1279-200mw-o-like-module-11-90-dia.jpg

1280-o-like-200mw-52mm-long.jpg




The module will fit more snug this way creating better heat sinking.
I may decide to use a little silver thermal paste in that .01 gap but probably wont be necessary, time will tell.

Next I discovered that the module is not in fact glued into place, therefore was able to take apart!

1295-p1040981.jpg

1293-p1040956.jpg



Beware!
Inside the module there were loose miniature brass filings near the optics which I managed to clean out using a pointed match stick!
This worked a treat, & would of been better than using a cotton bud that could of potentially left cotton fibre deposits on the lens.
I guess this would be common practice for an enthusiast on a cheaper built module or at least If your a geek like me who likes taking things apart.

The crystal on the O-Like looks substantial & damage free, unlike other cheaper green modules I have dissembled in the past that I’ve found
to have chipped edges on the crystals see pic
1294-p1040970.jpg


Also note there are pen markings nr the diode which suggests it may of been properly aligned.
1292-p1040954.jpg


The Lens essembly part of the module appears to be adjustable as its threaded, & must of been factory preset to it optimum,
as the upper lens thread nut hole is resin filled to prevent adjustment, which could easily be removed with a pin.
See pic of internal threads below
1316-lens-cap.jpg


I recently spoke to Jon at Odicforce UK who I’ve started purchasing parts from.
He thinks these DX~O-Like modules are mostly New Wish in origin with a modified driver board.
& states that their design used a photodiode feedback originally designed for c.a.5mw diodes with an inbuilt photodiode.
& modified with an external photodiode to run at higher powers.
they push them up to 100mW by compromising the feedback stability on the circuit producing nominal '100 -200mW modules
without feedback in a constant current mode.
The modules Jon past tested were all variable. therefore I would not be surprised if these modules are variable, time & more testing will reveal



Here is a beam shot of this new style O-Like running @ 3.63volts.
The beam looks bright & divergence is good

1347-p1050013.jpg


Only mode option for the dark was "starry sky" slow shutter which looks better than the real beam, but was impressed by the modules brightness.
1348-p1050015.jpg
 
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Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
294
Points
0
Thanks for mentioning that dimensions are slightly different and how to bridge the legs.
After your review I too unscrewed my module and found a thin brass line about 5mm long inside. In my case it was near the goo, so I easily removed it with my fingers.

It's good to know your module works great as well.
 
Joined
Sep 28, 2009
Messages
139
Points
18
Glad the info was of some use ;)
I figured it would be worth mentioning this particular module was 11.90 diameter so others would check.
Do measure your own though as 0.10mm tolerance is only paper thickness after all, & each module could potentially vary very slightly.

I personally wanted a tighter fit for better radial heat dissipation keeping it to 20°C-30°C operating temperature
The O-Likes 30 second test kinda freaked me out & came to the conclusion it must of been because the bare module gets too hot on longer run times.
 
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
294
Points
0
Do measure your own though as 0.10mm tolerance is only paper thickness after all, & each module could potentially vary very slightly.
I don't have a caliper to do that. But after reading your observation, I went to DX and they too specify 11.9 diameter for these modules.
The O-Likes 30 second test kinda freaked me out & came to the conclusion it must of been because the bare module gets too hot on longer run times.
This is exactly how Susie explained it to me: "you can see the test data, it is well, that is no much heatsink, powered by 3V" 
 
Joined
Dec 27, 2008
Messages
927
Points
18
i should say one thing. it is not sure that the PEAK voltage... is 3.7. i know olike is not so much precise in this thing... meybe it say only that is usable with 3v battery(3.6peak) and 3.7v battery(4.2peak). to be sure i should ask susie.... but it is probable that also she does not know it the laser will broken at 4.2. every laser she sell work with 4.2v.....
 
Joined
Sep 28, 2009
Messages
139
Points
18
This is O-Likes Specification

1) Wavelength: 532+/-10 nm
2) Output power: 175-200mW( 30seconds test)
3) Working voltage: DC 3.0-3.7V
4) Working current: < 1000mA
5) Laser shape: Dot
6) Dimensions: 12 (dia.) x 62.5 (L) mm
7) Case material: Brass
8)Operation temperature range: 20°C-30°C
9)Storage temperature:-10°C-50°C

I for one read the above as a voltage range of 3v to 3.7 volts max

There is no way I'm going to drive this module above the stated voltage range, besides theres no point now I own decent 3v batts.
Ive also read here that some have driven the DX modules at higher voltage & killed them!
Therefore by keeping to O-Likes specification im not going to void warranty wether Susies wrong or right, Thats my logic anyway.
 
Joined
May 27, 2011
Messages
94
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This thread helped me a lot! I was borderline buying this module, and this thread and its positive reviews convinced me to get it.... and boy am I happy I did! This module is suuuppeerr bright and has a tight beam with little divergence. It can burn black paper and light matches and barely even gets hot after 10min of use! I definitely recommend getting this module if you have the money... also one thing I couldn't find on any of the forums was to bypass the spring and solder on leads, so If anybody needs to know how to do that just say and I will post a picture showing not only where to solder the wires to bypass the spring, but also how to bypass the switch :)

EDIT: Also when I ran this module with an 18650 battery my laserbee II LPM read 187mW! Thats higher mW than I expected... even though it was rated at 180-200mW I only expected 150mW. Well I guess almost 190mW of green was a pleasant suprise :eg:
 
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