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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

New here and first laser build

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Mar 27, 2014
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Hello all. I have been lurking around here for a few weeks and have decided I want to build a laser. So here are the parts I am thinking about getting

1.7W 445nm Copper Blue Laser Module W/X-Drive & Three Element Glass Lens
https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/445-m140-didoes


Survival Laser Stainless Steel Host Assembly, Extended and Tapered Heat Sink
Survival Laser Stainless Steel Host Assembly, Extended and Tapered Heat Sink


Battery Extension Tube- Stainless Steel
Battery Extension Tube- Stainless Steel


18650 Battery and Charger Combo
18650 Battery and Charger Combo


Eagle Pair® 190-540nm Standard Laser Safety Goggles
Eagle Pair® 190-540nm Standard Laser Safety Goggles


Am I missing anything parts or any suggestions?
 





IWIRE

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Good luck with your first build ! That is a nice clean simple build. If it were me I would go ahead and get the diode assembly with the G-2 lens. DTR is great to deal with. Great choice on where to get the diode.
Survival Lasers is great to deal with and the SS host and copper heat sink looks good and gives decent run time.
I personally wouldn't use those batteries. Get some Panasonic batteries. Ebay and Amazon sell them.
You will also need a "pill"
Drilled Driver Pill & Brass Ring
and a battery contact
Survival Laser Driver
Not a have to but a personal preference
Arctic Alumina
The wires on the module DTR supplies is plenty long, I choose to unsolder the wires from the contact board and solder the wires from the module to the board. You don't have to do it that way, you could just solder the leads from the contact board to the leads from the module, it which case you would also need some of Flaminpyros heat shrink :) but there isn't much room for excessive wire in that host configured with that module/heatsink combination. Plus I'm an Electrician and I'm anal about un-necessary connections and my work showing good workmanship. If it looks right, it probably is right.

If you search around you might find a build a lot like this one. :yh:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f44/build-2-pics-specs-87736.html
Or maybe a few :yh:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f38/16x-build-mark-beast-pics-88482.html
 
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Thanks for the response and info on what i was missing. I knew I would miss something. If I'm reading your comment about the batteries correct i have the right numbers but would be better off with a better brand. Correct?
thanks again
 

IWIRE

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Thanks for the response and info on what i was missing. I knew I would miss something. If I'm reading your comment about the batteries correct i have the right numbers but would be better off with a better brand. Correct?
thanks again

No problem, I know what it's like just starting out, well, because I'm just starting out :) That's correct, if your going to use the module from DTR with the xdrive and your going to use the extension on the host for two 18650 batteries. I would use these batteries which is a personal preference of mine.
2 Panasonic NCR18650B Li ion Battery 3400mAh 3 7V 18650 New Protection PCB Japan | eBay

If you don't want to use the extension on the host and keep it compact, which is the look I personally like, you can use two 16340 batteries like these. *ALERT* Do not use these batteries. This brand sucks too. See test in following post. Will report back soon as I find a good quality 16340
2 PC GTL 16340 Rechargeable Battery CR123A 3 6V Lithium LIR123A 1800mAh Purple | eBay

Or to confuse matters even more :) you could go with the same diode module combination only configured with the xboost driver that DTR sells, & use one Panasonic 18650.

I would stick with what you have picked out because I like the xdrive. If you decide you don't need the extra run time of the 2 18650's with the extension. You can always take the extension off and run two 16340's.
 
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IWIRE

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I can get you some runtime vs voltage readings configured each way but it will be tomorrow evening, I have class tonight.
Just guessing but probably 20 or 30 min with 16340 and probably about an hour with 18650.
You will have to shut it down due to heat build up long before either battery configuration will be depleted.
To me the host looks out of proportion with the extension housing. But that is a subjective personal preference of mine. Some people might like that look.
I have a host with an extension tube so I can get you numbers both ways. It will be interesting to see what it is.
I also have some 18350 batteries on order just to see if they fit this host. Should be here end of week.

Thanks. I always learn stuff by people's questions of stuff I should know but don't.
In theory should be able to take the mah rating of the batteries and the mah load of the laser and get close.

But that's why they call it electrical theory. Nobody really knows for sure. :)
 
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+1 on IWIRE's recommendation for better cells. When using Li-ion cells in series, you really need to go with quality made cells.

You probably already know this, but just in case. You should check the voltage of the cells prior to loading them in your laser and upon removal. If the cells start coming out at different voltages, they are likely no longer of matching capacity. You can capacity test them to make sure they are still safe to use in series together at that point. You just don't want one cell getting spent and then reverse charging. That can make them explode.

EDIT: I said explode, but more likely they would vent. The explosion would be due to the cells being in a sealed aluminum tube (flashlight or laser host) where the pressure builds up until something gives, potentially in a dramatic and dangerous way.
 
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IWIRE

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+1 on IWIRE's recommendation for better cells. When using Li-ion cells in series, you really need to go with quality made cells.

You probably already know this, but just in case. You should check the voltage of the cells prior to loading them in your laser and upon removal. If the cells start coming out at different voltages, they are likely no longer of matching capacity. You can capacity test them to make sure they are still safe to use in series together at that point. You just don't want one cell getting spent and then reverse charging. That can make them explode.

Maybe you know this answer. I have a nice charger that I used for RC helicopter batteries. It allows you to cycle batteries and record the capacity of a cell. I was thinking of making a battery holder with an adapter to use on the cells we use. It would be real handy to test a cell. Guess I can just try it and see if it works. I have a fireproof charging bag I can test it in. :) I think it will work.

Oh, and Cipher43, I should be able to get you battery voltage vs runtime readings tonight. I'll charge some batteries soon as I get home. I'll be testing them in a 2.3w 445nm. So the results should be close to what you can expect in your build. :)
 
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Hi IWIRE. To the best of my understanding, Li-ions and Li-Po require the same charging cycle (CC/CV). I'm no expert though.

I'm assuming your RC charger is for Li-Po's. I've heard of several people that do use those chargers for Li-Ion. My hobby charger only has a Li-Po option, but it says to use that setting for Li-ions.

My suggestion would be to charge them outside and monitor the cells for heat build up. Try to measure voltage right at point of charge termination. If the cells don't go over 4.24v, you should be good. 4.18v would be better for cell life, but you are just wanting to check capacity once in a while.

If the cells start getting hot, terminate the experiment. I'm sure you know that if they vent, the gas emitted is toxic.
 
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IWIRE

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Thanks ImA4wheelr. I'm going to dig the charger out of a box in my attic :) See if I can get some more use out of it. It is a cool charger, it would plot out the discharge & charge curve. Let you know if a cell was going bad. It would be useful to know if a battery's stated capacity was true or not. I found a pretty cool site called "Battery University".
See what you started by asking a question Cipher43 :)

OK Cipher43, the 16340 batteries I posted a link to in my reply, DO NOT BUY THEM ! Both batteries started out at 4.18v the batteries are marked as 2300mah. There is no way they are 2300mah. Two batteries would be 4600mah. Measured at the tailcap my 2.3w is pulling 2280ma. I ran it in 2min cycles measuring the voltage each time I shut it off to cool. After 10min the batteries hit 3v and I stopped. I am going to properly dispose of these batteries and try another brand. The Panasonic 18650 batteries are great, I'm out of time tonight but I will test those this weekend, hopefully my 18350 batteries will be here Friday and I can report back on those also. I've read AW makes good batteries. I might try those. I can't find 16340 in Panasonic or sanyo. Good luck with your build ! Thanks for letting me know my batteries are junk ! :crackup:

I have some AW 16340 batteries ordered. Should be here by next Wednesday. Will report back. The mah rating that they claim is more believable. Kinda gives me a warm fuzzy feeling about them. The flashlight forums and electronic cigarette forums seem to like them.

FYI : 18350's also fit this host. Actually fit better than 16340's. Just got some and tried them in the exact same host.
 
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Noob question for you here. I see you said I should get some thermal compound. Where are you putting that?
 

Tmack

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On the outside of the module where it contact the heatsink. It will aid heat transfer.
 
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OK thanks. I have everything ordered and wanted to make sure i put it all together right.
 

Tmack

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Don't forget the stupid little stuff. Shrink wrap for the wire, springs if the kit doesn't come with it etc :)
Be prepared
 

IWIRE

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Cool glad you got your parts coming.
Post pics ! :) Enjoy ! :beer:
 
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Ok so i got everything and all put together and wanted to make sure i put the batteries in right. do they go positives up or down?
 




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