M140 c6 build problem

[Jstr]

I recently built my first class 4 laser, and it works, but barely.

I ordered parts from DTR and Survival Lasers. I have a Diy c6 with an adjustable current driver (1.6 to 2.3A), aluminum pill, and copper heatsink from survival. I used an m140 with a 3 element lens from DTR with 2 rcr123a batteries.

The problem is when I turn it on, the beam fades from full output to zero almost immediately. It is on for a total of about 3 seconds before it fades to nothing. Then when I click it back on a couple seconds later, it does the same thing.

I'm running it at 1.6A (the minimum for the driver), and electrical connections work (or I wouldn't get any output).

I don't know what could be wrong. I don't think it is the driver, unless it's incompatible with the M140. My batteries work, I don't think it's that. The only other thing I can think of is that the diode is heating up too quickly, but it's properly heatsinked and everything (I think).

If you have an idea of what to do, please help! I'm very open to suggestions.

 

[KRNAZNBOY]

That sounds like a driver problem to me.

Did you heatsink the driver? It could be overheating. Also, how do you know the driver is set at 1.6a? Do you have a test load?

Please post pics or we can't help you

:beer:
-Matt

 

[Down with Umbrella]

Hmm, did you set the driver yourself? Sounds like it could be a driver issue. Also have you verified that the batteries are putting out the correct input voltage? I have built multiple set ups with these same parts but haven't had problems. The good news is the diode probably isn't dead if it comes to life. Just my thoughts.

 

[bobhaha]

What driver do you have in there?

Also what brand and mAh rating are the batteries?

Sounds like you haven't left enough head room over the diodes forward voltage for the driver voltage drop.

-Adrian

 

[Down with Umbrella]

Oops sorry Krnaznboy, you beat me too it.

 

[Jstr]

Here are links to the parts I have and a pic of the whole thing.

Batteries: http://www.survivallaserusa.com/RCR123A_Battery_and_Charger_Combo/p1667092_11594182.aspx

Driver: http://www.survivallaserusa.com/Survival_Laser_Adjustable_Current_Driver/p1667092_11167774.aspx

I do not have the tools to test the driver unfortunately so I do not know. Is there a way to fix it without a test load?

Thanks for the quick response!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[Jstr]

 

[Jstr]

I did not heatsink the driver but would it overheat in 3 seconds?

Batteries are 880 mAh 3.7v ultrafire

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[Jstr]

Oh and also the driver has a pot, which I have turned all the way down. This is my reference for getting 1.6A. It's not ideal but survival laser tests their drivers before shipping and it doesn't appear damaged.

 

[Down with Umbrella]

The batteries should be fine. When I test them when they arrive they put out usually 3.9V ( x 2) should have plenty head room It appears to me the problem could be in the pot. Adjusting those without a test load and a DMM can be tricky. Did you turn the pot counter clockwise or clockwise?

 

[Jstr]

Counterclockwise

 

[mhemling33]

I did not heatsink the driver but would it overheat in 3 seconds?

Batteries are 880 mAh 3.7v ultrafire

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Driver should not over heat in 3 seconds..... Just turn the pot back to where it was and try it. Also when you try it; bypass the tail switch with a piece of aluminum foil.

 

[Jstr]

when you try it; bypass the tail switch with a piece of aluminum foil.[/QUOTE]

How do I do that?

 

[mhemling33]

lay a piece of aluminum foil over the negative side of battery and have it bend around on to the threads of the c6. then screw the tail cap on. It should turn on as soon as you make contact with the aluminum foil/host. It's purpose is to jump out the tail switch to eliminate one variable.

 

[Jstr]

That did the same thing... I guess it's not the tail switch. Thanks for the suggestion though. Any other ideas?

 

[mhemling33]

That did the same thing... I guess it's not the tail switch. Thanks for the suggestion though. Any other ideas?

Re-flow that solder blob you have making negative contact with for the driver in the pill.