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Oh, I agree with that lol. When I got started in this hobby a 300mw dpss green laser was considered top notch power. Then there were the DIY 100-200mw reds made from DVD burners and <100mw 405nm builds.What I really don't like is that 1-2W lasers are now considered "entry level". Really ridiculous that that is the new norm.
No such thing as "idiot proof" lasers.
I wasn't picking on you Raz, just commenting on the way things are
well i'll be your Australia/ Asia branch Alien!!!
Wish you the best of luck, but strongly advise not to sell complete lasers based out of the US. (As it is illegal, and the FDA as well as other agencies could get involved. If you're wondering, yes this forum is monitored.)
1-2W is definitely, consistently, the most in demand. Could see interest in 520nm, and 636nm. DPSS is not worth touching imho.
Regarding idiot proofing, depending on budget the things I've considered before were custom boards that would shut off the laser if it gets too hot. To prevent people from frying lasers by inserting batteries wrong, a custom driver would also help, but a mechanic approach would be better. Specifically having a lip over the positive contact so the negative contact of a battery could not connect. As a solution to complains about batteries not being button top, I'd just toss in a small magnet, or offer batteries as well, and solder on a button.
Would he be able to sell "nearly complete' lasers which would just require the buyer to solder in a wire or something? It would still take a slight amount of electronic knowledge, but anybody with a soldering iron and a brain would be able to do it.Wish you the best of luck, but strongly advise not to sell complete lasers based out of the US. (As it is illegal, and the FDA as well as other agencies could get involved. If you're wondering, yes this forum is monitored.)
1-2W is definitely, consistently, the most in demand. Could see interest in 520nm, and 636nm. DPSS is not worth touching imho.
Regarding idiot proofing, depending on budget the things I've considered before were custom boards that would shut off the laser if it gets too hot. To prevent people from frying lasers by inserting batteries wrong, a custom driver would also help, but a mechanic approach would be better. Specifically having a lip over the positive contact so the negative contact of a battery could not connect. As a solution to complains about batteries not being button top, I'd just toss in a small magnet, or offer batteries as well, and solder on a button.
Would he be able to sell "nearly complete' lasers which would just require the buyer to solder in a wire or something? It would still take a slight amount of electronic knowledge, but anybody with a soldering iron and a brain would be able to do it.