laser module questions

[DIYnoob]

I have recently bought 2 of these laser modules: 5mW 532nm Green Laser Module (3V 11.9mm) [E18083] : BestOfferBuy.com, Buy DVD, Shop for PC accessories, Discount MP3 Players, Bargain Deal for Surveillance Equipment, Cheap R4 for NDS, X-sim Unlock, and I'm wondering if I need anything other than some wiring, a switch, and a battery holder containing the right combination of batteries for 3 volts. I also would like to know which wire is for which polarity.
I'm also wondering what I usually need in general when buying a laser module to get it to work.

 

[vitalyx]

Welcome to the forum!

The black one is negative. The red one and case is positive. If you want it in a pen, you'll need to desolder the wires and solder a spring in place of the black one. You already have a switch. If you want to put it in a host with clicky in the back, you'll have to bypass the switch by bridging two contacts on either side of it.

Of course, you can find all that information and much much more if you search the forum.

BTW, DX has that same module for ~$7

 

[DIYnoob]

For some reason the website changed it from a little less than $7 to the current price in less than 24 hours from my purchase time (fail on my part). Anyways thanks for the info and welcome.

Edit: I looked up how to bypass the button and I just need to know where the solder contact is that connects the button and the rest of the circuit board. But I will not get the module until at least a week and a few days from now, so I'll probably post this problem in a new thread with high def pictures, unless some one can tell me from the pictures provided through the link I gave. So I will check this thread when I get the module and probably before too.

 

[photonaholic]

The solder pads you are looking for will resemble the 4 black spots around the square I drew for you......

 

[DIYnoob]

Which solder points for the button are usually which polarity on a laser module? Or at least on mine.

 

[HIMNL9]

They are in couple, and usually goes from the spring contact to the rest of the circuit.

If you need to bypass the switch and don't want to track down the scheme, or cannot do it, just connect together all the 4 soldering points where the switch was soldered with a piece of wire, and you're ok (just pay attention to not connect any other point to that wire )

The switch act only on one of the poles (the spring contact is the negative one), and usually the positive, in green modules, is the case of the module itself.

 

[DIYnoob]

Ok, I still technically have one more question to clarify why and, maby how, to do it. Why are there 4 solder points, instead of just 2 or 3 like most switches? Is it because there are 2 separate circuits?

 

[HIMNL9]

no, it's mainly for stability, when the switch is soldered, is more stable with 4 soldering points ..... also, cause the contacts are connected 2 by 2, this can be used for bridge a line over others, if needed (like in matrix keyboards), without use too much jumpers.

If you try with a tester (dmm), you will see that the 4 pins are connected internally 2 by 2 ..... i mean, each 2 pins are connected to the same contact point (usually in this way: take the switch and look at it from the front, when you have 2 pins on the left and 2 pins on the right, then the 2 upper pins are connected together, and same the 2 lower pins, and the switch act between these 2 lines)

 

[vitalyx]

That's a rather big switch, so 4 solder joints are used to hold it in place, not 2 like with smaller ones.
EDIT: I'm late should refresh more often

 

[DIYnoob]

I contacted the website on what to do to bypass the button and they say to just test each solder point with a power source, but it sounds dangerous for the module. Isn't there a way I could ruin it like that?

Edit: Actually I think I remember what I learned in my physics class about circuits, so never mind. But thanks for all the help!