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I need help powering 50 mW green laser.

mW Maniac

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I was being stupid and I took apart my laser because I thought I could easily modify it to burn things which I was totally wrong about. So now I need help putting it back together. I have the diode hooked up to the driver I just need to know how to power the driver. I am trying to do it with 2 AAA batteries because that's what it previously ran on.

anything would help.

https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&ik=93d3701417&view=att&th=141e1874f08bb31e&attid=0.1&disp=thd&zw

Hopefully this link works.
 

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FlutterPie

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Just putting batteries up to it won't power it. It needs to be in a host because something about the electrical current.
 
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mW Maniac

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when I do that the tip of the laser diode lights up red but there is no ray and its a green laser. I have no idea why.
Could the diode or driver be damaged?
 
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FlutterPie

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when I do that the tip of the laser diode lights up red but there is no ray and its a green laser. I have no idea why.
Could the diode or driver be damaged?
It might be possible you are seeing some IR
 

mW Maniac

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sorry im new to lasers. whats IR?

Does this mean its broken?
 
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SKeeZ

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IR is infrared (invisible light with a long wave). Adding on to what flutterpie said, you need current to flow. You do not need a host to do this. You can buy a battery holder that holds 2AAAs or 2AAs and that will work just fine if you connect the (+)anode to the brass module And the (-)cathode to the spring. Good luck
 
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DrMario

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Yep. And red ray (Infrared) is actually dangerous to look at, as it's very powerful compared to green light. DPSS (diode-pumped solid-state) laser herein basically confine the completely invisible infrared laser (1,064 nanometer) so the emission is forced to double into 532 nanometer green light.

It's somewhat inefficient due to the need for more powerful laser light to compensate for the KTP (Potassium : Titanium Phosphate) crystal's phase angle matching losses. It has to match with the diode's polarization to be efficient.

EDIT: Yes. Touch red wire onto the module Copper tube which hold the pump diode and crystals, while black onto the spring. It should be two AA battery holder (or any battery holders explicitly set for 3.0 Volts operation). I would check which polarization of the battery inserted first into original battery holder though.
 
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mW Maniac

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ive been using a battery pack that takes 3 AAA batteries for 4.5 Volts. Could that be the reason why its not working?
 
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DrMario

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If three AAA batteries are used originally in the laser pointer, try get the holder that have same number of batteries as originally used.

However, some peoples would just put the 4.5 V laser module into the host holding protected Lithium Ion battery. My laser I built just run off 3.2 Volts Lithium Iron Phosphate battery as-is. I would recommend sticking with AA / AAA batteries for obvious safety reasons.
 

mW Maniac

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thank you, ill try that

Can I just buy a battery Holder online?

And is that the reason its putting out IR instead of green laser light?
 
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DrMario

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Ah.... If the driver can buck the 4.5 Volts down just fine, you'd be lucky. Some drivers just simply fry the diode first before releasing the magic smokes. I was somewhat tired from work so my mind's not working correct.

If you do own a digital multimeter, I would suggest do this; remove black wire from spring and put it on black test lead with DMM set on 10 Amps ammeter (due to lower losses in this pathway inside the DMM, and you won't blow the meter fuse this way), red test lead into spring and light it up with two AA batteries. You should see about 200mA which is the total of a laser diode's current consumption. If less, well, it's LED'd or worse, and the same can be said for the opposite, some diodes die a short circuit.
 
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DrMario

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One more thing... Did you move the crystals? They are surprisingly sensitive to polarization to the laser diode.
 




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