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Help with power supply

madog

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Have you ever tried to incorporate car audio components into a home audio set-up? Well I have and it works pretty well except for one thing, the power supply.
I used the best battery I could find which is a Die-Hard Platinum deep cycle marine gel battery with a Napa 12V-10A battery charger/maintainer, model number 85-510.
The amp is an absolute beast! It is the Rockford Fosgate T15002. It has a 250 amp, ANL type fuse. It can push 3000 watts no problem. At the time of purchase it was the biggest two channel amp commercially available from them. (They make bigger for competition purposes).
The subs are two JL audio W6V2 twelves. They have two, four ohm voice coils.
I use my Onkyo HT-R560 for my signal. With this set-up, watching movies and playing video games is truely amazing! The bass is powerful enough to knock pictures off the wall and dishes out of my cabinets! The only problem is that I need to leave the battery charger on to keep the battery charged enough to last through an entire movie. By using the charger so much, it dies after about six months or so. It is covered by warranty but I've returned it for a new unit three times now and the people at NAPA are getting suspicious.
My question is this. What can I use to power the amplifier besides a battery and charger? I'm open to any suggestions.
If you need any further information please ask.
 



Tech_Junkie

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You need to get a home amp, LOL. I used to have a simular set up, and it was not worth the trouble IMO.
 

cd520

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You need to get a home amp, LOL. I used to have a simular set up, and it was not worth the trouble IMO.
I agree. You can purchase 12V power supplies that will run your equipment but the massive amount of current you will need to provide to that amp the price would get high.
 

Toke

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Just to repeat the above.

It is no problem finding gear that can keep your stereo in power, the problem comes with paying for it. :D
Charles Battery Charger 5000 60A 12v

Actually I am not sure if you can do without the battery, or at least some large capacitors. I recall a festival where we got complaints from the sound people, it turned out that the bass stroke at that one stage took enough juice to screw up the regulator on the generator running the whole festival. :D
 
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cd520

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It can be done without a battery or caps. I do not know the current draw of his amplifier but going by the 250A fuse I would say 200A would be in order. Off the top of my head you would be looking at around $1000 to do it.
 

charleytown55il

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it might be possible to rewind a few MOT to get maybe 15 or so volts and find a large bridge rectifier.
 

madog

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Thanks for the insight guys. I was worried that buying a power supply to drive the amp would be expensive. Perhaps I could build one? When I say "I", what I mean is me and my friend who is an electrician. I'm not ready to abandon the idea quite yet. The subwoofers that one could buy that are intended for home theater use are just way too wimpy. Do you think that one could be built by someone with the electronics "knowhow"? Have any of you ever built such a thing? If so was it difficult/expensive?
 

Cyparagon

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...It has a 250 amp, ANL type fuse. It can push 3000 watts no problem.
If it runs right at the breaking current for the fuse, and if it's 100% efficient... then MAYBE. :)
 

Tech_Junkie

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You can get a decent high power sub fairly cheap. Just gut the speaker and throw in you JL.

You can go to the fleamarket, junk store, yard sale, and find some old receivers and use them for amps. You can get a top of the line (old) recievers for $10. Sometimes people give them away.
 

madog

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You can get a decent high power sub fairly cheap. Just gut the speaker and throw in you JL.

You can go to the fleamarket, junk store, yard sale, and find some old receivers and use them for amps. You can get a top of the line (old) recievers for $10. Sometimes people give them away.
Good thinkin TJ. I had not considered this
EDIT: referring to the old receiver
 
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madog

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If it runs right at the breaking current for the fuse, and if it's 100% efficient... then MAYBE. :)
I understand why you would say this. But in a vehicle, the alternater typically operates at more than 12 volts, say 13 or even 14 volts. The 3000 watt rating is based on the bare minimum 12 volts. So operating right at the breaking point is not necessary.
 







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