Help with driver

[danward]

Hey guys,

I've been lurking around here for a while, and I thought it was finally time to register and post. I have a 1W 445nm diode and a O-like driver, except, I have no clue on the driver where the positive and negative from the battery goes as it is not clearly labeled.

1W 445nm laser diode driver / 200mW 405nm laser diode driver [OL-445-D] - $14.99 : Welcome to O-Like.com, Your source for laser products

I also got my diode from:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250751171223&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_1749wt_1139

My case is also the same blue one from this thread:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f52/1w-445nm-mohrenberg-hotlights-blue-18500-22600-host-kit-55922.html#post789119

Could someone recommend another driver or is the one I have fine?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Dan

 

[GBD]

Hello.

I have one of those drivers and im using the same diode as well.

B+ is battery positive
the spring is battery negative
R4+ is the diode's positive
and right next to it,
"-" is diode negative.

The way its ment to be connected, is that the diode's + and - are connected to R4+ and "-", and the case pin connected to B+ (for a case positive build).
however you can connect B+ directly to your battery.

The driver is slightly underspec, so your diode may output in the nieghborhood of 700-800mW.

 

[danward]

Hello.

I have one of those drivers and im using the same diode as well.

B+ is battery positive
the spring is battery negative
R4+ is the diode's positive
and right next to it,
"-" is diode negative.

The way its ment to be connected, is that the diode's + and - are connected to R4+ and "-", and the case pin connected to B+ (for a case positive build).
however you can connect B+ directly to your battery.

The driver is slightly underspec, so your diode may output in the nieghborhood of 700-800mW.

Ok thanks, with the case, well the case pin, mine came shorter than normal. What do you suggest i do?

Thanks
Dan

 

[GBD]

My case, since the module I was using made the pins deep and recessed in it (also was in a home-made host), I soldered wires on the diode and then soldered them onto the board.

If you want to aviod soldering extention wires, you could trim the other two pins down to the same lenth (with side cutters or something) and attach the board this way (remove that pink pin spacer first). Just note, the diode doesnt like heat, so solder fast and carefully.

Also, dont bend the pins, preferable leave them as striaght as possible. the only thing holding them in place and isolated is a thin wall of epoxy.

and if you dont know already, NEVER run a bare diode, you will overheat and kill the poor thing in less then a second.

 

[danward]

My case, since the module I was using made the pins deep and recessed in it (also was in a home-made host), I soldered wires on the diode and then soldered them onto the board.

If you want to aviod soldering extention wires, you could trim the other two pins down to the same lenth and attach the board this way (remove that pink pin spacer first). Just note, the diode doesnt like heat, so solder fast and carefully.

Also, dont bend the pins, preferable leave then as striaght as possible. the only thing holding them in place and isolated is a thin wall of epoxy.

Alright thanks, I'm using 3 AAA's. Will the voltages and amps be alright for the driver and diode?

Thanks,
Dan

 

[GBD]

Volts, maybe.. most likly too much (the O-like needs 3.7-4.2V), amps? definatly no.

This driver was designed for the 18650 lithium cells, and will require at least a 1800mA
to work, not something that an AAA can provide.

Im using a single SoShine 3.7V 2800mAh lithium for mine.

 

[Coherent Light]

Nope no way

 

[danward]

Would you suggest a Micro FlexDriver? and a 22600 Lithium battery?

Thanks,
Dan

 

[GBD]

That will work, but if you already have the O-like driver, there is nothing wrong with it, it will drive your diode.

You still will need a battery that will provide a decent current regardless of what driver you chose, A-140's require such current.

EDIT: 100th post

 

[danward]

That will work, but if you already have the O-like driver, there is nothing wrong with it, it will drive your diode.

You still will need a battery that will provide a decent current regardless of what driver you chose, A-140's require such current.

EDIT: 100th post

I like the Micro FlexDrive better than the O'like one, I think I'll get one set to 1400ma. Would that be ok? Ill get a 22600 battery, I can't seem to find a charger though.

Thanks,
Dan

 

[GBD]

I dont really use the flexdrive, I only have used the O-like, and my home-made boost converter and linear drivers.

From what I read, the flex can go to 1.5A, but requires heatsinking on its chips.
so heating from the driver is something to consider in your final build.

You will have to get the input of someone who has more experience with this driver then myself.

 

[danward]

I dont really use the flexdrive, I only have used the O-like, and my home-made boost converter and linear drivers.

From what I read, the flex can go to 1.5A, but requires heatsinking on its chips.
so heating from the driver is something to consider in your final build.

You will have to get the input of someone who has more experience with this driver then myself.

Ok, well everything is soldered together and inside the case now. I've gotta buy some 22600 batteries and a charger off ebay. I'll let you know how it goes, and post some pics too!

Thanks,
Dan

EDIT: Do you think these goggles are fine with the laser?
http://www.o-like.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30