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Help understanding a labby type module from Aixiz

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alanbrito

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Hey guys,

So for my application, I was recommended by someone in the Red laser forums to purchase a labby type Aixiz module, 635 nm, ~100 mW with a 12VDC power connection. I am just unsure as to how to connect it/run it.

You can see the unit in the picture:

new%20format%20unit.jpg


The bottom left quadrant of the image, where you can see the laser driver and electronics, has 4 connectors. The top left goes to the fan in the back of the unit, the bottom left goes to the laser itself. On the right side, I got two cables, a 12v DC power cable and a TTL cable.

Right now I am using a 12VDC wall adaptor to input the 12VDC. Is there anything else I have to connect? When I connect it, I see dim light from the laser diode but the fan is not spinning.

What is the TTL line for? For driving the laser (pulsing it)? Or is that TTL for the fan itself, and if so, what should I run it from? I do need to mention I need my laser to run in CW mode.

Also, what does the blue potentiometer do? Is that how I can control the diode power (if I can, at all)?

I feel dumb asking these questions, but I'd rather do that than mess it up.

Thanks!
 
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You will have to supply a voltage to the TTL line. Possibly 5V to turn it on. Now that I look at the back cover it says 5V. So power up the 12V lines and then supply 5V to your TTL and it should come to life.
 
Speedy78 said:
You will have to supply a voltage to the TTL line. Possibly 5V to turn it on. Now that I look at the back cover it says 5V. So power up the 12V lines and then supply 5V to your TTL and it should come to life.
Click to expand...

Aha! Thanks! Can I just supply 12VDC as well? I have no intention of driving that signal. I am guessing that operates the fan, as well?
 
Im not sure if you can supply more V without damaging anything. The fan may come on when the laser is on.
 
The pot is likely a current adjustment. Leave it alone if you want the diode to live.

If it doesn't come on with just 12V, you will need a bias on the TTL. Some are active low and some are active high though. Try shorting the TTL leads together to force it low. If that doesn't work, you can use a voltage divider from the 12V to get 5V. The voltage is not critical - it only needs to be somewhere between 3V and 5V usually.
 
Cyparagon said:
The pot is likely a current adjustment. Leave it alone if you want the diode to live.

If it doesn't come on with just 12V, you will need a bias on the TTL. Some are active low and some are active high though. Try shorting the TTL leads together to force it low. If that doesn't work, you can use a voltage divider from the 12V to get 5V. The voltage is not critical - it only needs to be somewhere between 3V and 5V usually.
Click to expand...

That's worth trying as well, thanks!

Speedy78 said:
Im not sure if you can supply more V without damaging anything. The fan may come on when the laser is on.
Click to expand...

Probably.
 
I used 12v wall wart adapter. I have two of these myself and they have been running great by that method.
 
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Ok so a quick update. I connected a 5V line to the TTL connector, now the fan spins but I get no light output from the laser. If I leave the 5V off, I do see faint light from the laser, about 50 uW as measured with our lab power meter.

Am I supposed to move the potentiometer?

I sent these questions to the manufacturer at Aixiz, I am hoping he can help me, but if you guys have any suggestions I would greatly appreciate them.
 
Connect the adapter to the cr1 please wires. That's all. If you have done this and it doesn't work there is a problem. Like I said I used 12v wall adapter. m
 
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Tmack said:
Connect the adapter to the cr1 please wires. That's all. If you have done this and it doesn't work there is a problem. Like I said I used 12v wall adapter. m
Click to expand...

By that I am assuming the red/black wires that are supposed to get the 12VDC supply? I did that, and nothing is happening. Waiting to hear back from Aixiz.
 
Just to make sure: you have a +5V between the TTL's blue signal connection (+) and its white ground (-) right? In other words the 5V supply's voltage output is connected to the TTL (+), and the 5V supply's ground is connected to the TTL (-). The grounds may not be shared between the various inputs; so you can't bet on that.
 
In a pinch, I would simply power the TTL line with 3 Volts coin cell to light it up as a test. TTL's usually an open-base (or floated gate) referenced logic input so it's best to tie 10 kilo ohms resistor from signal to ground or to 5V+ depending on configuration for signal (555 timer is also the usual test source I would live by).

Try obtaining datasheet if you can, as it usually describe the best than I would.
 
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