Help Green Laser +

[skyhorse]

Hello, I am new to this forum and new to lasers. I recently purchased a green laser off eBay (10mw 532nm OEM Green Laser Module). I am trying to find the correct way to wire this laser? I know that the spring end is the negative and that the body is the positive. But I would like to wire this laser with a switch and to a battery . I don’t know where to solder the positive on the board. I have enclosed a couple of photos. Any help would be very much appreciated…skyhorse:yh:

 

[Tech_Junkie]

There is already a switch on that board.

 

[Jimmymcjimthejim]

Use a digital multimeter and check for continuity from the case to the three pins that extend from the laser diode. There will be one continuous pin, that will be your positive connection.

 

[photonaholic]

There is already a switch on that board.

I think the OP wants an on/off switch rather than the momentary PB switch.

 

[Tech_Junkie]

Hey...its late LOL.

 

[skyhorse]

Hi, Thanks for the help... Is it possible to remove the spring and solder the negative wire there? Also I would like to remove the momentary switch or by pass it. If I remove it do I install a jumper?

 

[jaycey]

If the spring isnt in the way just solder straight to it or remove the spring and solder to that terminal.

You can jump the momentary switch attached to the driver without removing the switch, makes things a little simpler.

 

[skyhorse]

Ok if I put a jumper wire across the momentary switch should I solder a wire from 3 to 5 or???. 3 to 5 see photo with switch in first post.

 

[HIMNL9]

In your pics, 4 and 6 are the same contact, and 3 and 5 the same (i mean, inside the switch, the pins that you have marked 4 and 6 are connected together, the pins that you have marked 3 and 5 are connected together, and the contact of the switch act between these two lines)

Just connect all the 4 if you want to be sure to bypass it completely.

Or just connect the negative wire to the pins marked 3 and 5 (that, probably, are already connected under the switch), is the same result.

 

[skyhorse]

OK Guys, Thanks for all Your help. I got it all wired up and it is working. Working some what. When I switch it on it stays on for about 30 seconds and slow fades away. I think there must be a short in it some where. I twist the body or the board a little and it come back on for about 10 seconds and goes off. It was a cheap one anyway.. The person who sold it to me will not answer my emails. Thanks again for all Your help…Skyhorse

 

[Tech_Junkie]

Sound like a cold solder joint.

 

[photonaholic]

Sound like a cold solder joint.

Cold joints are an easy fix, Inspect all connections, really inspect them, use a magnifier if need be, or sometimes when I lose patience, I just touch em all up.

If one wire or component lead had (has) oxidation on it at the time of assembly, and the solder flux was not allowed enough time to do its job, you end up with a connection that looks nearly perfect, but the solder never adhered to the wire or component lead.

This rears up a lot where contact switches are fastened down, the repeat stress of getting pushed breaks the bad joint free.

 

[billg519]

Some of these modules are just plain bad ... That the seller does not answer emails says a lot. I've had a couple of bogus modules, one does exactly what yours is doing. In this case, there is probably an issue with the crystals. Bad alignment, or a flaw that worsens as the crystal heats up. Not much can be done in this case. It is best to get modules from a decent source, such as o-like. I have also gotten green modules from DX, these are not as good as the o-like modules.