FS: Over 1Watt, 445nm Laser, custome host..2 - CR123

[RDTech]

I have a 1.1+ Watt, custom made Laser pointer, runs on 2 CR123 lithium batteries. Duty cycle is 20-3\25 on 45 seconds off in this hot weather here in Florida. These lasers run at 1300mA, so you get hot no matter what. The laser module is POTTED with thermally conductive adhesive through and through. Units is adjustable focus with Aixiz 405nm lens, higher output with JAYROBS 405nm lens.

Asking $300 OBO Shipped. PM or e-mail me if interested: I have a few good reps for producing nice lasers, check them out.

I'm also working on another cooled LABBY, should be done tonight. Will have separate power unint with Digital current readout, fully adjustable to 900-950mW. FAN cooled, both PS and Laser.

mitchellkatz3@cfl.rr.com

 

[agravlin]

Oh man, that's beautiful. I just wish it used 18650's.

 

[Kevlar]

Would you mind sharing what driver its using?

 

[cd520]

Nice looking host you got there.

 

[Moebius]

That's beautiful. Good luck with your sale ,)

 

[RDTech]

Driver is Dr Lava BOOST drive, but when 18650 is placed in it, after 10 seconds it oscillates..very odd. I'm using 2700-3600mAh Li Ion batts

 

[Addonex]

That is an awesome looking piece of work you have there, love the sticker too. I wish I had the spare cash to buy this one :cryyy:

 

[Eudaimonium]

The Vdrop of the load is lower than V of input.

IIRC, BoostDrive will simply overconnect the input to the output.

Your diode is directly connected to the batteries. Current is set too high and when one 18650 is used, driver is overheating and shutting itself off (your "oscilations").

Aixiz 405nm lens DO NOT have higher output than Jayrobs 405nm lens.

You might want to look into getting your laser disassembled, setting lower current (800mA-1A max), and using one 18650.

Host is a killer though.

 

[RDTech]

That could explain why the lava drive 4 or 5 did not do that. You're stating that since I've grounded the diode at the diode ot heatsink point of the aixiz module, this is somewhat different than that of the lava drives 4/5? Odd, I've used atleast 5 of these boost drivers and had a couple made and sent to me hot by jayrob. They ALL had case negative. I'm at a point, unusually, where I'm challenged

 

[RDTech]

So why do 2 cr123 work fine with no oscillations...help me , my math is rusty, medical was my training in school..

 

[Eudaimonium]

That could explain why the lava drive 4 or 5 did not do that. You're stating that since I've grounded the diode at the diode ot heatsink point of the aixiz module, this is somewhat different than that of the lava drives 4/5? Odd, I've used atleast 5 of these boost drivers and had a couple made and sent to me hot by jayrob. They ALL had case negative. I'm at a point, unusually, where I'm challenged

Yes it's different than Flex.

First allow me to apologise for ruining your sale and this thread.

Then, you need to disassemble the laser ad immediately stop using it.

If you read the MicroBoost manual, you will find that it's different from FlexDrive in one crucial detail -

There are no common points between input and output. FlexDrive's negative connection is continous. MicroBoost's is not.

If you shorted the case pin and any other pin of your diode, you are exeptionally lucky it made it out alive. A member (well, noob) here once destroyed $400 worth of diodes (2x 12xBR back then) because he shorted case and negative pin of diode. No feedback loop was made back to the driver which simply kept boosting the power.

Disassemble laser, connect case pin to the negative input ONLY, and have negative to negative and positive to postitive properly wired if they are not already.

Positive input is made via spring.

That's a case negative build.

If you want case positive , solder spring to negative input of driver and case pin to positive input.

Better idea is to use a contact switch board like in Cree C6 case, where the battery hits only the contact board and not the driver - hence, diode's pins, which can bend and break.

EDIT- addendum, two CR123's work ? I do not think so. You most likely bricked the driver and it's directly connecting the batteries to the diode. Read manual:
http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_diode/Micro Boost Drive V1 manual.pdf

That's 5.8 V MAXIMUM input voltage, otherwise magic smoke comes out of chips there.

It's a good chance that it already did. Test your driver first, before doing anything else (except complete disassembly of laser).

If in need of moneys, try selling the host alone. It's a kickass host.

 

[RDTech]

Got it unpotted , took a bit of work with it totally embedded in thermal epoxy.

Works.

What I have found is that w hen protected 18650 batts are used, they current limit. I have 18650 batts ranging from 1200mAh to 3600mAh. Rip out the protective circuit (kind of dangerous) most work fine. I have it put togerher fine, no oscillations

THANKS VERY MUCH - I could learn to read

 

[Eudaimonium]

Got it unpotted , took a bit of work with it totally embedded in thermal epoxy.

Works.

What I have found is that w hen protected 18650 batts are used, they current limit. I have 18650 batts ranging from 1200mAh to 3600mAh. Rip out the protective circuit (kind of dangerous) most work fine. I have it put togerher fine, no oscillations

THANKS VERY MUCH - I could learn to read

"Unpotted" ? Perhaps you would care to enrich my english dictionary ?

At the amounts of current drawn with these lasers, it's quite easy for protective circuit to "dig" it like a short.

I am very surprised that your driver survived. Did you use CR123 or 16340 ? 3.0 and 4.2 V respectively ...

What is the total input current , I mean current draw from the battery?

 

[Pontiacg5]

Unpotted in this sense means ripped out of a solid block of epoxy that I'm guessing was supposed to be a heatsink? Thermal paste used like that acts as an insulator, thermal epoxy probably isn't much better....

You must be using some crappy 18650's, I've never had a problem with protected 18650's limiting the current of a boost set to 1A-1.2A.

I suggest replacing the thermal epoxy with a metal heatsink or leaving the thermal epoxy out completely. Also, get some new 18650's, there is no reason they should not be able to drive a boost drive like that.

 

[Eudaimonium]

Unpotted in this sense means ripped out of a solid block of epoxy that I'm guessing was supposed to be a heatsink? Thermal paste used like that acts as an insulator, thermal epoxy probably isn't much better....

You must be using some crappy 18650's, I've never had a problem with protected 18650's limiting the current of a boost set to 1A-1.2A.

I suggest replacing the thermal epoxy with a metal heatsink or leaving the thermal epoxy out completely. Also, get some new 18650's, there is no reason they should not be able to drive a boost drive like that.

You can see in his slideshows that module is sorrounded my nice metal mass.

He just most likely used thermal epoxy to secure it in place.

Strobing of the 445nm laser at high currents is not unknown ... I also experienced it when I accidentaly set my diode at like, 1.5 A or so. Driver was drawing over 1.7 A. Starter strobing after 2 seconds with naked battery and immediately with protected cell.

I turned the current down significantly, at 3.7V battery exactly it draws 1.2 A, not strobing after 3 or 4 minutes of continuos operation.

 

[SMIDSY]

im interested in the labby =D