First time building laser, PLEASE HELP =]

[nosebleedXD]

ok i have attempted to build a red laser and i have successfully gotten it to work, BUT the wires i soldered onto the diodes kept snapping off and i would never be able to solder them back and yeah.... SO ANyWAYS i found this amazingly deal on ebay[ NOT SURE IF ITS AMAZING BUT...] and it has already soldered the wires on the two pins of the diode for me

150mW 405nm Blue-Violet "blu-ray" Laser Diode in Module on eBay.ca (item 170363246276 end time 31-Jul-09 01:06:09 EDT)

so first off... i was just wondering if this is worth buying and is it a good deal or not

if so ima go ahead and buy it

i was also wondering what is it a good host i could use for this build

thank you for reading and hope you reply

- your friendly noob
nosebleedXD

 

[Darkarmyofone]

DONT buy that kit, the driver is HUGE, you'd be able to fit it into an mxdl host MAYBE... better off checking with me

As you may or may not know, i offer a cheap build/repair service, and complete builds. all links are in my signature.

I also sell all sorts of diodes, drivers, and modules, as well as hosts and batteries.

Hope i can be of service to you,

Dark

 

[pwnstar]

Darkarmyfone is great to buy from! and he can probably make you a great laser. if you wanted to make it yourself, then you can gather all that stuff together yourself for less money than that kits worth. You will not get 150mw out of it that kit, probably 120mw at most.

diode in sled - 11$
aixis modual 4$
everything else around - 8$ from radio shack with some spare parts to keep for later

 

[nosebleedXD]

where do you get a diode for 11 bucks?

i really dont want to spend alot of money

i have already wasted alot of money trying to build a red laser

my problem is i cant solder wires to the diode pin cause there so dam small

so by buying that kit all i have to do is build the driver and connect it to the wires already soldered

i guess i can just use a random case or build one myself

 

[cust11]

Dark would set you up with a kit to your specifications. he is a very easy to work with guy. Shoot him a PM I am sure he can help you out. It can be in as many pieces as you would like.

-Mike

 

[nosebleedXD]

=[ im broke tho and its like 12 dollar shipping

 

[cust11]

In my opinion, if $12 is going to break you, you may want to re-evaluate this hobby at the moment. It gets very expensive very fast. I am not trying to come off rude, I just don't want you to be displeased with a laser build of yours that you had to cut corners on.

-Mike

 

[nosebleedXD]

whoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooop double posted

 

[nosebleedXD]

kk my first off sorry, its just that i've wasted quite enough money building a red laser already destroying like 4 diodes and .... ANYWAYS lol

i currently have this driver i built
http://www.rog8811.com/LM317 components01.jpg?0.35312663627278806

i was wondering if it works for blue rays

i was planning on buying either this
405nm PHR-803T Sled [PHR-803T Sled] - $12.99 : High Tech DealZ, Simplifying the LASER Hobby!
or this
405nm PHR-803T Blu Ray Diode in Aixiz Laser Module Housing [PHR-803T in Aixiz module] - $19.83 : High Tech DealZ, Simplifying the LASER Hobby!

ALSO i think on my previous failures, i failed to find out the current of my driver

what i did was power up my laser and connecting the two ends of the driver to an ammeter and checking the current

is that the correct way to measure the current or do i need to build like a test load

if so how do i build one

i currently only have the following parts remaining with me

couple 10ohms resistor and 1N4001 diodes

 

[nosebleedXD]

ImageShack Gallery

 

[rog8811]

ALSO i think on my previous failures, i failed to find out the current of my driver

what i did was power up my laser and connecting the two ends of the driver to an ammeter and checking the current
It can be done that way as long as you have load equivelent to the LD in series with the meter. If you are trying this with the LD in place you need to be sure that everything is clipped together securely, it only takes a probe to make intermitant contact and the LD is dead.

do i need to build like a test load
It is the safest way as you are not endanging the LD as it is not in circuit.

if so how do i build one
Visit my website for the info

i currently only have the following parts remaining with me

couple 10ohms resistor and 1N4001 diodes

You can use a 10ohm resistor in the test load, all that happens is your meter reading, in mv, will be a factor of ten out.

Regards rog8811

 

[nosebleedXD]

factor of ten out?

i am currently getting a reading of 90mA - 100mA with my 10ohms resistor

so do i multiply or divide 90 by blah blah

sorry i dont get factor of ten out =[

 

[Momo66342]

I have trouble building drivers small enough to fit in an Aixiz module.Im thinkin about buying solder paste instead of use solder and a soldering iron.I really wish someone could post a video here that had someone talking instead of music explainng how to build one.

 

[Momo66342]

where do you get a diode for 11 bucks?

i really dont want to spend alot of money

i have already wasted alot of money trying to build a red laser

my problem is i cant solder wires to the diode pin cause there so dam small
Do NOT use wires to connect the LD to the driver.You can, but I prefer to just solder directly to the diode.Also, pick up an extremely fine tip soldering iron tip.They work a lot better.Lastly,pick up a pair of helpin' hands with a magnifying glass to see what ytou solder.Good luck!

so by buying that kit all i have to do is build the driver and connect it to the wires already soldered

i guess i can just use a random case or build one myself

Do not buy kits unless your SURe they are worth it.I recomend buying one from jayrob or darkarmyofone.

 

[nosebleedXD]

im just gonna try building onemyself for the heck of it

im still wondering what 100mA on a 10ohm resistor test load would be on a 1ohm resistor test load =[

 

[dr-ebert]

Just for clarification, the assumption here is that you measure the current not directly with a DMM on A setting in the circuit, but indirectly by measuring the voltage drop over a resistor in the circuit.

If you have 100mA flowing through a 1 Ohm resistor, you'd measure 100mV, so you've got a 1:1 correspondence between current in mA and voltage in mV.

If instead you use a 10 Ohm resistor, you'd read a voltage of 1V, or 1000mV, so you'd get 1mA = 10mV.