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FrozenGate by Avery

First look : 445nm Phobos @ 1.65A - Clicky problems.

Joined
Jan 14, 2012
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Okay, so I finally was able to cram two benboosts in a gouged out and modified Phobos host from Euds, and the beast lives... BUT

Every different 16mm clicky I've tried, from either DX or KD... work for 3-4 seconds, start flickering, and die in a puff of smoke. No more clicking, no more switching... They just die.

Anyone has a source for better switches, or maybe a way to make them suitable for more current ? I'm at a loss right now, having to power this guy with a screwdriver shorting the back :P

DSCN0656.jpg
 





How many amps are running through the switch? The McClickey is good for Up to 6A @ 12V. It is 0.682 inches, or 17.3mm in diameter.
It is not a direct drop in for most hosts... Mine required a bit of creative engineering to get it into a UniqueFire G10
 
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Open up your switches and see if the current is passing through a spring.. Anything
over 1/2A fry these up fast. You need two solid metal contacts closing your switch..
In some you can add a jump wire for the current to bypass the spring.

Aslo, some of the DX clickies have what looks to be silver plating. If you open one,
be sure to clean all oils left from your skin with a solvent. These also tarnish and can
lead to failure.
 
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Hmmm... a little more modding to the tailcap but I'm going to have to go with a McClicky, got a good supplier for em T_warne ?

I didn't measure it yet (my dmm is currently soldered to the test load for the ben boosts) and I don't have a spare set of leads lmao... Should be right around 2 amps. 1.65A @ around 5V out of the dual ben boosts... so probably around 2 amps in @ 4.10v with the batteries I have right now. I'll actually test it later to see the exact load.
 
I ended up with buying from illumination supply as they had a shipping option that was about 10$ cheaper than anywhere else... I really couldn't justify paying 14-25$ shipping for a 7$ switch :P
 
I had about 3.4A comming off my clicky with that setup. Fried the first one and laugh as the second one struggles.
 
I had about 3.4A comming off my clicky with that setup. Fried the first one and laugh as the second one struggles.

You got me just curious enough to rip apart my rig and holy cow.... 3.5A coming out the rear on 'midcharge' batteries, and about 2.8A for batteries around 4.09V... no wonder this thing is eating clickies !

I almost killed my DMM as well doing this test. Moved the lead to the 10A unfused hole, measured amperage at tailcap, then measured battery voltage to see how much charge it had to be drawing so many amps, and had left the lead in the 10A unfused port.... and took that straight to the battery... took me a second to figure out why I was getting -- instead of 3-4v on the readout... by which time the leads were nice and warm. I shouldn't play with these things when I get up in the morning
 
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