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First build is dim

msxmgd

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Hi guys


the past few weeks I've been building a red 250mw laser...

I used some 16x dvd burner as well as the standard aixiz module.

I also made this [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Rjlf7gnXms] laser driver (using 5 ohms of resistance [2 10 ohm resistors in parallel]).

It works, but it's extremely dim. I started with a 3V source and worked my way up to 15V (which made it somewhat brighter) but it's still quite dim.

I don't think I burned out the diode, I never operate it more than ~5 seconds at a time.

Any suggestions?
thanks in advance
 





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Sounds like you may have LED'ed your diode:(. Perhaps from a current spike. just a guess.

PS....Welcome to the forums....feel free to introduce yourself in the welcome are and let everyone know a little about yourself.
 
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Hi guys


the past few weeks I've been building a red 250mw laser...

I used some 16x dvd burner as well as the standard aixiz module.

I also made this [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Rjlf7gnXms] laser driver (using 5 ohms of resistance [2 10 ohm resistors in parallel]).

It works, but it's extremely dim. I started with a 3V source and worked my way up to 15V (which made it somewhat brighter) but it's still quite dim.

I don't think I burned out the diode, I never operate it more than ~5 seconds at a time.

Any suggestions?
thanks in advance
I did the same exact thing the other day with a 6x build, forst I just soldered 1 10ohm resister and it worked fine, but them I wanted more power so I decided to hook up the other 10ohm resistor in parallel to get more power :eg: But when I connected my 9V battery I was surprised when it was very dim. So then I just took off one of the resistors so now I have 1 10ohm resistor and it is bright, I would try taking 1 resistor off and trying that :D
 

msxmgd

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I did the same exact thing the other day with a 6x build, forst I just soldered 1 10ohm resister and it worked fine, but them I wanted more power so I decided to hook up the other 10ohm resistor in parallel to get more power But when I connected my 9V battery I was surprised when it was very dim. So then I just took off one of the resistors so now I have 1 10ohm resistor and it is bright, I would try taking 1 resistor off and trying tha

Really?
Hmm before I desolder those connections (i did such a good job! haha) did you try using the diode without the LM317 driver? Because I did and it as well was very dim

if you found the same thing, then we certainly have the same problem, so the same solution should work as well :)
 
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Really?
Hmm before I desolder those connections (i did such a good job! haha) did you try using the diode without the LM317 driver? Because I did and it as well was very dim

if you found the same thing, then we certainly have the same problem, so the same solution should work as well :)
nope, This is what mine looks like http://laserpointerforums.com/f38/setup-ok-59892.html :D (amazing soldering I already Know :beer:)
 
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Really?
Hmm before I desolder those connections (i did such a good job! haha) did you try using the diode without the LM317 driver? Because I did and it as well was very dimif you found the same thing, then we certainly have the same problem, so the same solution should work as well :)


Well thats your Problem. You Killed the diode when powering it up without the LM317 and You direct driven it off your power source.:tsk:

That is a NO NO. Let me Guess Kipkays video Right.?
 
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+1 to lazeerer, and -1 to lazeerer. My first build was a direct driven LOC, and I still have it. Total use before I installed a driver was at least 40 hours.

Are you sure you didn't fried the diode when soldering on it? the soldering iron must be just above the minimum 'tin melting' temperature.
 
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+1 to lazeerer, and -1 to lazeerer. My first build was a direct driven LOC, and I still have it. Total use before I installed a driver was at least 40 hours.

Are you sure you didn't fried the diode when soldering on it? the soldering iron must be just above the minimum 'tin melting' temperature.
I dont know if I just had a JESUS diode or what but I got it so hot I couldnt even touch it, I was almost sure it was fried, and it still works. (I also dripped solder on the bottom of the diode and it still works. Must be some sort of miracle :angel:
 
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hahah JESUS diode. I did that with a 445 and it works :beer:
the LOC are just.. weak.
 
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Leodahsan you probably have the battery matched to the diode. The OP probably used the full voltage He was planning to use with the LM317! That is probably why yours is alive, and his is not.
 
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@trever22
LOCs aren't made like 445nm diodes. The material could be more thermal sensitive than a 445nm or bluray one. And the sleds that they come in cost $5 each. Some member here said the diode himself can go as low as $0.50 (50 cents) for 200mW.

I used 2 rechargeable aa. I wanted more power, so I used 2 common aa. I wanted more power without have to buy batteries :)P) so I used a telephone battery (I think it is 3.6v charged).
Oh 1 thing: It is still on the sled.

Damn people don't understand the DDL driver regulates current.. if you go up to 15v with a LM317 driver, you will get 12.5v with regulated current: far higher than a diode needs.


edit:
Damn.. I'll have to plot that. wait a second all.
 

msxmgd

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I used a 15 watt iron. although i have fried things with a soldering iron, that didn't kill the diode.

will hooking a diode (JUST a diode) up to 3V (i.e. 2 AAs) unregulated current fry it?
 
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If the internal resistance of the batteries is good the diode would most likely survive and lase just fine. Did you extract the diode yourself, because the LOCs are fragile and care needs to be taken during extraction. I hope you're not using the IR diode out of the sled and not the 650nm. just some thoughts.
 
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The IR diode have inverted pinout, didn't it?

well, just don't hook the diode to unregulated voltage sources. just test it, and build a driver.
 
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IFIRC IR is case positive in all instances. but not knowing the source of the diodes I'm just making some guesses as too what might have happened.
 





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