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Ebay "Ultrafire" 2x26650 Host for NUBM06 or MUBM44 build




Lifetime17

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hi,
Yes that will do fine but you will have to run this with a SXD set to 4.5A or 5A. The Xdrive will only do 1.8A tops . And you will need a heat sink for it , i have these in silver and heat sinks but they are for my builds for sale. And the SXD will need to be heat sinked on the IC chip to keep it cool..

Rich:)
 

94Z28

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I would suggest sourcing a heatsink before 100% planning to use this host unless you are going to make your own. Any host will work if you have a heatsink and room to fit a driver.
 

mayor

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Every time I have fixed my nubm44 laser host, the diode always develops a hairline crack in the glass. Does anyone know why?
 

AaronT

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I would suggest sourcing a heatsink before 100% planning to use this host unless you are going to make your own. Any host will work if you have a heatsink and room to fit a driver.
I planned to get the host in hand take measurements and order the diode in a sink with g2 lens from DTR and mount it myself.

The most complicated that may get would be "gluing" the sink in the host, I'll probably use just hot glue as I don't intend to run it for long periods (It would also make it obvious when I was getting the laser warm). Or that will work tell I can have an custom head assembly made.

Something like this scaled down.
 

mayor

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When I built my first one the driver overheated in about 3 seconds due to poor heatsinking. That's the main issue when making a 6 watt laser. The driver will overheat very fast, and the diode transfers heat best when it is pressed in. The NUBM44 diode was never meant for fun anyway.
 

Lifetime17

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Hi Aaron,
This is the way i built my XM900 host its the same as yours , this is with a DTR 35mm copper sink and a copper washer to keep it aligned . And this is how i sinked the driver to it with Arctic Alumina Epoxy. No hot glue it has no thermal properties and the driver will heat and die or go on safety. If you didn't know how to build these 44 diodes learn first they aren't cheap if you kill them ..

Rich:)
 

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AaronT

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Hi Aaron,
This is the way i built my XM900 host its the same as yours , this is with a DTR 35mm copper sink and a copper washer to keep it aligned . And this is how i sinked the driver to it with Arctic Alumina Epoxy. No hot glue it has no thermal properties and the driver will heat and die or go on safety. If you didn't know how to build these 44 diodes learn first they aren't cheap if you kill them ..

Rich:)
I read that thread. It is what got me looking at the Ebay host.

I don't intend to hot glue the driver to the sink (I am aware how important keeping it cool is, when I typed x-drive I was thinking SXD, I have read most of the NUBM44 MUBM06 and MUBM07 build threads), just use hot glue to fill the gap between sink and host tell a better option was found. Namely a full on custom head assembly.
 

94Z28

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I read that thread. It is what got me looking at the Ebay host.

I don't intend to hot glue the driver to the sink (I am aware how important keeping it cool is, when I typed x-drive I was thinking SXD, I have read most of the NUBM44 MUBM06 and MUBM07 build threads), just use hot glue to fill the gap between sink and host tell a better option was found. Namely a full on custom head assembly.
I would advise against this as well use a proper thermal paste glue it will take longer to set but will be much better then hot glue. The diode will heat the sink hot enough to melt hot glue and then it will fall out I bet.

I'm not sure of how much gap your expecting but if it's a decent sized gap then you still risk issues using that much paste (alignment, paste failure, etc) and will greatly shorten the duty cycle of the diode even with the driver heatsinked and pasted.

The diode is more important than the driver as the driver is 30$ and the diode is 100$.. keeping it safe at all costs is the most important thing in my opinion.

If your copper module isn't fitting well find something to shim t and glue to hold it all together. Or find a proper heatsink for a different host here on the forum.


Sorry.. just my $0.02
 
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AaronT

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I would advise against this as well use a proper thermal paste glue it will take longer to set but will be much better then hot glue. The diode will heat the sink hot enough to melt hot glue and then it will fall out I bet.

I'm not sure of how much gap your expecting but if it's a decent sized gap then you still risk issues using that much paste (alignment, paste failure, etc) and will greatly shorten the duty cycle of the diode even with the driver heatsinked and pasted.

The diode is more important than the driver as the driver is 30$ and the diode is 100$.. keeping it safe at all costs is the most important thing in my opinion.

If your copper module isn't fitting well find something to shim t and glue to hold it all together. Or find a proper heatsink for a different host here on the forum.


Sorry.. just my $0.02
After thinking about the tools I have on hand I should be able to modify a washer and mount the sink to that then screw the head together to clamp on the washer. I prefer to have the option to remove the diode/sink/driver combo from the host at a later date.

Eventually I will have a bench top lathe, I'd fab a custom head at that point.
 

Lifetime17

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Hi,
The washer size is 1-3/4 inch it fits with little grinding. it takes some time to fit the sink, i have drop in sinks for that host the AL and work fine for the heat from the driver and the diode., but i opted for the full Cu sink from Jordan with more modding . If you don't have the right tools good luck . But have fun building ..

Rich:)
 

94Z28

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I'm not trying to discourage you sorry if it seems that way only trying to help you avoid destroying a 130$ diode/driver package quickly.

I wouldn't feel safe running a NUBM44 at 4.5A in aNY host without proper heatsink making contact to the host for heat transfer.. I only have 2w diodes atm and they get hot quick so I can imagine how those nubm44 are.
 

Lifetime17

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Hi,
I built a few and there were others who did the same with no problems .. so now you can decide the mass of the 35mm module is so big that any heat will be worked away . It works great i will build another the same way..


Rich:)
 
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Alaskan

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Just wondering if this 2000 Lumens 5 Modes CREE XM L T6 LED Zoomable Black Flashlight Light Torch | eBay Would make a good host.

Maybe even use the 5 mode feature combined with an X-Drive?
You could use that, but I don't think you will have more than a hand full of seconds run time. The NUBM44 diode is a heat maker, I wouldn't try using a host like that flashlight, not even most of the hosts you find people using, it really needs a large heat sink, not only for the diode but for the driver to sink to also. I used a MrCrouse Mace of Doom host for mine with a huge heatsink on it, relative to many laser pointer hosts, and it has never had a problem. Also, I used thermal heat sink glue, that is, heat sink epoxy to fasten my driver to the inside end of the heat sink and no problems.

This isn't mine, but a photo someone else posted, now this is a suitable heat sink for the NUBM44

 

AaronT

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I'm really not that worried about run time. If it lasts long enough to light kindling with a quick burst or leave a good scorch in a bit of wood I'll be happy. A 15 second burst once every 2 min is more than I can think I'd use with something this powerful and small.

I'll either use one of DTRs copper modules or make my own sink out of bar stock (I have a drill press).

I'm planning a maglite host for my next build. If the NUBM44 and Driver are too much for this host I'll use them on the maglite build. So one of my requirements is scavengable parts.

If I roast one it wouldn't be the first time I destroyed $200 of perfectly good parts. I'm a gunsmith by trade, and that comes with an expensive learning process.
 
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