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Drill bit guide for 12mm heatsink

Seoul_lasers

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I am just trying to find a drill bit that would make a decent fit for a 12mm dia copper module.

I have found 31/64 ( actually 0.4844") as being the closest drill bit to 12mm
12mm translates into 0.472"

What are you using to machine heatsinks? :thinking:

This question is aimed directly at metalworkers!

:can:
Thanks
 



BowtieGuy

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Hi Seoul, I personally wouldn't go that big if I didn't have to; with that drill, you are already starting out oversize, and unless you have a drill press, or lathe, the hole you make will more than likely be even bigger.

My first choice would be to use either a 15/32" or 11.5mm drill followed with a 12mm reamer.
If you can't get a reamer and drills are all you have, it's still a good idea to drill a smaller pilot hole first, then finish with a 12mm drill.
If you have access to a lathe, you can also bore the hole to size for a perfect fit every time. :D

When given a choice, I'd always rather have the hole a little too small than too large; you can always sand or file it to size. All the thermal compound in the world won't help if it's a real sloppy fit.

Hope this helps. :)
 
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Lifetime17

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Hi,
Ok this how i drill for a 12MM module , First i start with a centering bit this is important to get it on spot. Make sure you have the work in a drill press vice and locked in if you don't have a lathe.
Now after you center the work use a stepping procedure by using small to large drill bits like in the pic.After you have reached the 12mm drilling use a 12mm reamer to clean up the bore and use lubrication when drilling . Driling causes lots of heat and you don't want the tools to get dull or bind in the work piece. Hope this helps.and if you want to go further wrap a piece of emery paper around a small drill bit end and sand to a smoother finish. When you done make sure the hole is clean this will aid when you set in the 12MM module with Arctic Alumina Compound.
Shhhh,, Don't tell anyone !!
Rich:)
 

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Seoul_lasers

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Hi,
Ok this how i drill for a 12MM module , First i start with a centering bit this is important to get it on spot. Make sure you have the work in a drill press vice and locked in if you don't have a lathe.
Now after you center the work use a stepping procedure by using small to large drill bits like in the pic.After you have reached the 12mm drilling use a 12mm reamer to clean up the bore and use lubrication when drilling . Driling causes lots of heat and you don't want the tools to get dull or bind in the work piece. Hope this helps.and if you want to go further wrap a piece of emery paper around a small drill bit end and sand to a smoother finish. When you done make sure the hole is clean this will aid when you set in the 12MM module with Arctic Alumina Compound.
Shhhh,, Don't tell anyone !!
Rich:)
Very good information!! Thank you.

I knew about starting small with holes when drilling, but the overall final size
was not clear seeing as most places carry drill bits in fractional sizes...
Anyways, the information posted here is very helpful.

I remember years ago using lathes and drill presses... anyways.


:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:
 
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Lifetime17

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Hi there are plenty of merchants in the states that sell 12mm drill bits so you don't have to settle for fractional sizes. makes the boring a lot easier. Use the internet browser on your PC and you will find a lot.

Rich:)
 

ElectricPlasma

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Seems like this question has been answered but I guess I'll chime in, my method is basically the same as BowtieGuy's method. 15/32" for a drill bit but exactly to size on the lathe if you've got the module or it's exact diameter on hand. As he said, for something like this too small is better than too big. If worse comes to worst then the most you have to do is sand or take a few thou off using the lathe depending on how small it is. But I've had pretty good experience with just using a 15/32" bit. Generally "12mm" laser modules are anywhere from 11.7mm to no more than 12.1mm in my experience. That's a pretty large range but that's including chinese modules as well. I would hesitate with making the hole diameter any bigger than 11.95mm.

And as LT said you can find drill bits in Metric if you check places like eBay, they've got them for pretty cheap in China though as you might know shipping from China to Canada isn't the most efficient, if you need it fast you might look into local options or ask for express shipping which is generally in the ballpark of 20$. :yh:
 

Seoul_lasers

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Seems like this question has been answered but I guess I'll chime in, my method is basically the same as BowtieGuy's method. 15/32" for a drill bit but exactly to size on the lathe if you've got the module or it's exact diameter on hand. As he said, for something like this too small is better than too big. If worse comes to worst then the most you have to do is sand or take a few thou off using the lathe depending on how small it is. But I've had pretty good experience with just using a 15/32" bit. Generally "12mm" laser modules are anywhere from 11.7mm to no more than 12.1mm in my experience. That's a pretty large range but that's including chinese modules as well. I would hesitate with making the hole diameter any bigger than 11.95mm.

And as LT said you can find drill bits in Metric if you check places like eBay, they've got them for pretty cheap in China though as you might know shipping from China to Canada isn't the most efficient, if you need it fast you might look into local options or ask for express shipping which is generally in the ballpark of 20$. :yh:
I was looking at titanium bits yesterday at a professional machine shop supply place in town. They carry everything suggested here. They carry both fractional and non-fractional bits though they're a bit $$!.

Copper rounds here (Cu-101) are available locally up to 4" dia.


Now to find a lathe.

I'm itching to try a maglight build next.
Perhaps a NUBM44 with correction optics or a 520nm build.
 
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Lifetime17

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Hi ,
Use C145 Tellurium copper round bar for 85% machinability , to were your C101 copper round bar is only 20% not good . 4 inch stock is way to large for what we do here , for a Mag Light sink and knob 2 inch is fine but as all coppered is very pricey and 2 inch will cost you some cash $$$...
Look up Victor machinery or Enco or The Little machine Shop for supplies for the lathe, and do your homework carefully when you buy a lathe . You will need a lot of tooling to get started and its not cheap so get ready to spend some cash. Wish you all luck in you quest pal. It take hours to produce a fine piece of work nothing to rush about.

Rich:)
 
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ElectricPlasma

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Hi ,
Use C145 Tellurium copper round bar for 85% machinability , to were your C101 copper round bar is only 20% not good . $ inch stock is way to large for what we do here , for a Mag Light sink and knob 2 inch is fine but as all coppered is very pricey and 2 inch will cost you some cash $$$...
^^^ Very important point, nicely done pointing that out LT. It takes a hell of a lot of experience to work with C101. You'll have a bad day if you try to machine that stuff. It's too malleable and it feels like you're cutting through thick bubble gum.

As the man says have your wallet ready. ;)
 
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Lifetime17

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Hi EP,
Corrctamundo buddy cash down the tubes there's lots to learn doing this . Its all about the tooling for the right job and the correct metallurgy . Well you know !!

Rich:)

Hi Heres a mag light sink and knob for you..Enjoy ..These will fit the bill for the44 diode no problem and room to sink the driver under the main sink.
 

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Seoul_lasers

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Hi ,
Use C145 Tellurium copper round bar for 85% machinability , to were your C101 copper round bar is only 20% not good . 4 inch stock is way to large for what we do here , for a Mag Light sink and knob 2 inch is fine but as all coppered is very pricey and 2 inch will cost you some cash $$$...
Look up Victor machinery or Enco or The Little machine Shop for supplies for the lathe, and do your homework carefully when you buy a lathe . You will need a lot of tooling to get started and its not cheap so get ready to spend some cash. Wish you all luck in you quest pal. It take hours to produce a fine piece of work nothing to rush about.

Rich:)
I am no state to buy a lathe (VERY expensive).
I am planning on using a schools lathe to make some heatsinks sometime in the future. Thanks for the info about the C145 alloy! I know copper is pretty soft to deal with(gummy), a reason why many shops won't use it. but that's nice there is some harder alloys out there. I'll ask to see if the metal shop has C145 or can get some in. I don't see it listed. Tellurium copper is used primarily for electrical contacts, so I don't see why it is not more readily available. :thinking:

edit: I had a talk today with the local metal shop about that Copper Tellurium alloy. It's specialty order only (they need a minimum order before brining any in) and it is indeed as others pointed out it is VERY expensive.
So much for that.. C101 and C110 are the only ones that are usual stock copper alloys. C110 is 99.9% Cu / C101 is apparently electronics/engineering grade copper...
 
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