rhd
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Input specs 9V to 12V and output needs to be 38V @ 2A (can be constant current or constant voltage).
I ordered a (genuinely) 11,000 lumen LED that requires quite high voltage. I'm going to run it from 3S3P Panasonic 18650s, but that will still require quite a bit of boosting.
There are a number of drivers out there that can handle it, and I've ordered this in the meantime:
DC DC 250W Constant Current Boost Step UP Module Mobile Power Supply LED MAX 10 | eBay
However, I need something smaller. As a contingency plan, I'll reverse engineer the PCB of that ^ and try to shrink it by double-siding and violating good design rules. But I'd rather not have to do that. It can be painstaking, and if it turns out to be a 4 layer board, I'm screwed.
EDIT: As I look at that board a little closer, I'm left wondering if perhaps it's an aluminum board (implying 1 side) rather than just a white standard PCB? I see that the blue pots are surface mounted, which you'd probably only do if you couldn't use through-hole for some reason (like it being a metal board). If it's a 1-sided board, then I'm less opposed to having to reverse engineer it, and maybe I should just stick with that solution.
I ordered a (genuinely) 11,000 lumen LED that requires quite high voltage. I'm going to run it from 3S3P Panasonic 18650s, but that will still require quite a bit of boosting.
There are a number of drivers out there that can handle it, and I've ordered this in the meantime:
DC DC 250W Constant Current Boost Step UP Module Mobile Power Supply LED MAX 10 | eBay
However, I need something smaller. As a contingency plan, I'll reverse engineer the PCB of that ^ and try to shrink it by double-siding and violating good design rules. But I'd rather not have to do that. It can be painstaking, and if it turns out to be a 4 layer board, I'm screwed.
EDIT: As I look at that board a little closer, I'm left wondering if perhaps it's an aluminum board (implying 1 side) rather than just a white standard PCB? I see that the blue pots are surface mounted, which you'd probably only do if you couldn't use through-hole for some reason (like it being a metal board). If it's a 1-sided board, then I'm less opposed to having to reverse engineer it, and maybe I should just stick with that solution.
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