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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

DIY side to rear clicky manual.

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I'm trying to find the DIY side to rear clicky manual but can't seem to find it. I can really use some help with that.

My plan is to find a 100-200mw and replace my current module into my rear clicky laser. I have the same laser as the cyber from lazerer.com

My budged for a new module is about 30-40maxxx
 





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What you do is desolder the switch from the board, and replace it with a wire. That way it is always on and only the switch on the back of the host will turn the laser on.

I've done that with one of my laser modules. I actually have an unmodified one too, so here is what it looks like:

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Wow. That is the most helpful information I have a received from this forum in a long time. I really appreciate it since no one is answering me anywhere in any thread except you. Thank you
 
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What about those modules that come with wires and no spring in the rear. What do I do with those?

The laser that I have as I said before is the same model as the cyber from lazerer.com. When I took off the front cap off the laser I noticed there's a threading on the module head suggesting its a screw in module. I did some research however and
I found something that might be able to work. This is what I got...

http://dx.com/p/100mw-532nm-green-laser-module-3v-11-9mm-26890

Is this a good idea to buy?
 
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Almost all the modules I've seen have the same general size and layout of the one in the pair in the photos above. When they were "screw in" it was usually just because the module was glued inside the host, or that the front of the laser module got detached from the back.

With those DX ones, you'll probably need to find and solder a spring yourself, maybe a pen spring or something. I'm not sure what hosts those ones are designed for, and you might want to find a different one.

I got the ones above from Susie (AKA O-like) before she started an online shop. These days I'd probably just get a 100mW one from Lazerer. It's the same price as the DX one, anyway.
 
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Almost all the modules I've seen have the same general size and layout of the one in the pair in the photos above. When they were "screw in" it was usually just because the module was glued inside the host, or that the front of the laser module got detached from the back.

With those DX ones, you'll probably need to find and solder a spring yourself, maybe a pen spring or something. I'm not sure what hosts those ones are designed for, and you might want to find a different one.

I got the ones above from Susie (AKA O-like) before she started an online shop. These days I'd probably just get a 100mW one from Lazerer. It's the same price as the DX one, anyway.
Remind me to PM you when I need help with a green build, You seem to know your sh*t!
 
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I was looking at the ones from lazerer but that's only 100mw. I'm looking for a 200mw and I don't want to go down because I want to be able to pop balloons and burn matches easily. Can you link me up with Susie website?
 
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Heh, well I usually have only used those modules for "labby" type arrangements. I usually rely on a lab module and my ol' CNI for most green stuff.

Faisalbasha: Despite saying "200mW", most of those lasers won't reach 200mW, and a great deal of it will be IR, not green light. Lazerer is probably only offering 100mW ones because that's as high as they'll reliably go, and they might be only counting the green laser power, not the IR. Even if they did reach 200mW, the case and crystals aren't meant for that kind of power and heat and it'll probably die relatively quickly. A lot of peoples' "200mW" green lasers died pretty quickly when they bought them from DX. It's like fitting a cheap rocket engine into a car.

If you want something that'll actually produce 200mW or more, you'll need to buy a better module such as those sold by Lasever. They cost a bit more, but you'll be receiving the actual output. I was able to buy a 500mW lab laser from Lasever, with a higher-end PSU, some dichro mounts, and $50 for shipping for about $500. In other words, I was paying about $1/mW guaranteed green output. A 200mW laser module would cost you about $240 or so from the Jayrob link above, or 300mW for about $25 more. Of course you need to mount it in something, but you're getting a high quality laser.

So think about saving for a decent 200mW laser, or just accept that 100mW will be about as good as you'll get without overstated specs. You can always buy a 445nm laser if you really want to burn stuff.

Also remember to buy some goggles. These lasers can very quickly blind you, and it's hard to focus them visually without goggles on because the spot is so bright (especially green). I've actually spent about as much on goggles as lasers (it used to be more on the goggles).
 
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Well I certainly got some useful information that I didn't have before so thanks a lot or that. I was leaning towards the lazerer module before but now I'm almost 100% sure i will buy it.

I have one more concern about replacing the module.... There is a tiny lens stuck on the module I already have, do I have to take it out and stick it on the new module or does it come with a lense already?
 
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The one on the brass laser module, or attached to the host? If the former, I'd take out whatever happens to be attached to the brass laser module itself. Likewise, I'd alone leave any lenses that are attached to the host. I don't know how they're put together; so you'll have to experiment with all that.
 
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nothing is attached to the laser casing if thats what you mean by host. the lens is glued to the module.. im gonna post a picture when i get home after work.
 
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here are the pictures... let me know if you need better ones.
 

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here are some better pictures
 

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Don't touch the lens on that one. It's probably fixed to the crystals and such. Also, I think without the front lens (on the host) the laser doesn't have any IR filtering. I would leave that lens attached to the brass laser module, and remove the entire module out as one piece.

When you receive the module from Lazerer, you might need to remove the front brass section (the side attached to the lens) so that it exposes the same internal lens you see in your photo above. Overall you'll probably need to see how your module is built when you get it.
 
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What you're saying is I have to take the top brass section out that's connected to the lense and add it to the module from lazerer correct?
 
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Just so we are on the same page, the only thing i removed to expose what you see in the picture was the host cap. thats it.
 




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