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FrozenGate by Avery

Did I kill my driver?

P

Poisonednumber

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Jun 18, 2016
Messages
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So finally got my parts to build my first laser have been wanting to for a long time.

Parts list:

Diode:NUBM06 450nm Laser Diode In Copper Module W/SXD Driver & 405-G-2 Lens

Driver:4A Super X-Drive(SXD-V3)

Batteries: 2 18650 lg


So I wanted to do a quick test to see if it works so I put the two batters in series and wired the driver to the batteries and it turned on but only left it on for 2-3 secs at the most since I don't have my heat sinks installed on driver and diode yet I tested it s few more times but I accidentally put one battery backwards and it kinda sparked when I touched the wire to the battery then I realized I had a battery backwards I corrected it but it never came back on :/
 





It's not good to power up your driver without it being hooked to a load. When I first started building, I killed a couple that way. Luckily, they were cheap drivers.sounds like you need a driver. Maybe you should order one. When you recieve it, you can then put it all back together and see if your diode is good. I'm telling you this assuming you do not have a psu to test your diode. The best thing to do would be to test your diode and driver properly. Good luck
 
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Alright thank you for your replies and yes I don't have a proper power supply to test the diode with but I'v already ordered a new driver so I hope it all turns out good.
 
Yep if given reverse polarity the driver is designed to sacrifice itself to save the diode. Your diode will be fine but you will need a new driver.:beer:

Also as stated you would need a test load if you wanted to test the driver. Connecting a switching laser driver directly to a meter and powering can damage the driver and probably would not have given you an accurate current reading anyway. Testing the output voltage is not very useful as laser drivers don't regulate voltage. The passed voltage is drawn from the load.
 
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It's probably the chip on the driver that's gone - would not be feasible to replace and cost more than a new driver if bought in quantities of 1.

As said: also don't run constant-current switching boost drivers without a load. If you do that, the driver will try to increase the voltage as best as it can but to no avail since no current will ever run.

This can result in high output voltages that damage the switching chip and any output capacitors if present.
 
Poisonednumber said:
Thanks for all the feed back I'v already ordered me a new driver hope it gets here soon.
Click to expand...

Good luck to ya,
Mistakes with lasers can be expensive, be careful. Hope ya have eye protection. What host are you using? A review or at least some pics would be nice when done
 
Yup,
They're really nice. Very substantial. Great choice in hosts. Remember to pay attention to your duty cycle
 
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I guess it's not a host designed for continous operation so you should be careful.

Stainless is not that good a termal conductor to begin with, but lacking any fins and such i think this laser may get pretty hot quickly. With aluminium hosts you'll feel the thing heating up, but with stainless the business end can get quite hot before you notice anything holding it by the part that hosts the batteries.
 
I did get the one with extended copper heat sink but if it does get too hot I may move it to a bigger host and use this one for a less power build
 
Ive had those heatsinks, like ben says, touch the copper to test its temperature as the ss doesnt conduct heat well. You should be good for a 1min on duty cycle.
 
I have a question about wiring the diode and driver where should i solder the negative wires of the diode,driver output and input?
 
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