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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Decide between 3 18650 batteries






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Personally I would buy without hesitation the Sanyo first, and last the UltraFire
 

Blord

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Forget the 3000mAh rating. A good 18650 should have 2500mAh max.
The red Sanyo 18650 has a very recessed head. Sometimes it can't make contact with the driver pcb.
 
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Thank you for your answers, by the way, is there much diference between the Sanyo 2600 and the 2250 ? I'm a bit low on budget :)



Anyone knows a better place to buy batteries, and meybe cheaper? it would be nice if it were from UK due to fast shipping
 
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TuhOz

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Thank you for your answers, by the way, is there much diference between the Sanyo 2600 and the 2250 ? I'm a bit low on budget :)



Anyone knows a better place to buy batteries, and meybe cheaper? it would be nice if it were from UK due to fast shipping

What more mAh's the batter has, that longer you can use it.
So you just need to charge your 2250mAh battery more than the 2600 one.

Also lighthound.com sells very good AW 18650 batteries...
 
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What more mAh's the batter has, that longer you can use it.
So you just need to charge your 2250mAh battery more than the 2600 one.

Also lighthound.com sells very good AW 18650 batteries...

Thanks, but will the diference between 2250mAh and the 2600mAh be noticable? what's the diference in minutes?
 

Blord

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It depends on the load. An example a LOC red at 400mA would go 5 hours on 2250mAh and 6 hours on 2600mAh. I assume the driver is 100% efficient.
Hardly any difference in runtime.
 
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I think those batteries claiming over 2600~2800 mAh are bogus. The fact that they sell for less and have funky quality tells a lot.

I would suggest Sanyo, then AW, then probably Sony.

The Sanyo 18650's can supply 1A happily, their capacity is true and they don't cost as much as AW's.
Xtar seems to be a sub brand of sanyo? i dunno for sure.
 
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Don't forget about venders such as AW and Redilast. If you feel that you would rather have a protection circuit on the cell, these venders can provide that. Unfortunately, it comes at a price. You can find AW 2250mAh protected cells at about $18 after S&H and 2600mAh protected at around $20. Otherwise, stick to name-brand cells like Sanyo, Panasonic, etc., and avoid cells with a ___fire name. I've heard mixed things about xtar, but I won't comment one way or the other on them.

as for the difference between 2600 and 2200, you won't really notice it unless you're looking for it or if you routinely use your cells down to empty. I have been in the habit of checkign and recharging my cells before they get to low, so that is partially why I don't notice a difference. However, if you are used to using cells like most people, the protection circuit could be very useful. It basically turns the battery off when the voltage gets too low. If you do not have this circuit, you might accidentally keep discharging the cell even after it is past its low discharge voltage, which can cause reduced capacity, reduced performance, or problems charging.

I would suggest your first Lithium Ion cell be a protected one, but unfortunately good protected cells can be expensive. I think if you order AW cells from AW's sales thread in the CPF marketplace forum, the prices are about $1 cheaper than what you see in web stores. It's only a dollar, but then again, it's a dollar!
 
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Don't forget about venders such as AW and Redilast. If you feel that you would rather have a protection circuit on the cell, these venders can provide that. Unfortunately, it comes at a price. You can find AW 2250mAh protected cells at about $18 after S&H and 2600mAh protected at around $20. Otherwise, stick to name-brand cells like Sanyo, Panasonic, etc., and avoid cells with a ___fire name. I've heard mixed things about xtar, but I won't comment one way or the other on them.

as for the difference between 2600 and 2200, you won't really notice it unless you're looking for it or if you routinely use your cells down to empty. I have been in the habit of checkign and recharging my cells before they get to low, so that is partially why I don't notice a difference. However, if you are used to using cells like most people, the protection circuit could be very useful. It basically turns the battery off when the voltage gets too low. If you do not have this circuit, you might accidentally keep discharging the cell even after it is past its low discharge voltage, which can cause reduced capacity, reduced performance, or problems charging.

I would suggest your first Lithium Ion cell be a protected one, but unfortunately good protected cells can be expensive. I think if you order AW cells from AW's sales thread in the CPF marketplace forum, the prices are about $1 cheaper than what you see in web stores. It's only a dollar, but then again, it's a dollar!

Thank you, very helpfull =D
 

geeo

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Here's a link to 18650 tests. Yezl, SenyBor etc will cost about 5x more than the cheap Ultra and Trustfires but last longer too. Cheap is not neccessarily bad it just means you will have to carry and change batts more often.

According to the link those Red and white Ultrafires have an ACTUAL capacity of less than 1000mAh

Torchy the Battery Boy: 18650 Batteries / Chargers
 
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Exerd

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Have NO fear.

My signature is here!

That better cap that bottle. :p
 




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