cyonics PS and tube

[Andoh]

Hello all,

I have a Cyonics PS model 2102-5BLL with a 2202-5BLI tube that was scavenged from a Royal Zenith Color scanner. I was doing a little house cleaning around the bench and was going to toss it all but am now curious as to if it wil fire. I see from some of the pics that a couple jumpers are needed to enable the power to the tube. Anybody got a clue as to the pin numbers that need to be jumpered?

Andoh

 

[daguin]

Hello all,

I have a Cyonics PS model 2102-5BLL with a 2202-5BLI tube that was scavenged from a Royal Zenith Color scanner. I was doing a little house cleaning around the bench and was going to toss it all but am now curious as to if it wil fire. I see from some of the pics that a couple jumpers are needed to enable the power to the tube. Anybody got a clue as to the pin numbers that need to be jumpered?

Andoh

GooeyGus just schooled me on this

You need to jump pins 36 & 37  AND  you need to jump pins 12 & 13 (OR sometimes it's 13 & 14)

That should give you control via the "knob" on the front of the PSU

Don't forget, there is about a 40 second delay between turning the key and light.

Peace,
dave

 

[Andoh]

Many thanks to you daguin! It fired up with no problem. A very purty blue. I did not run it long though. The tube gets quite warm even with a 80mm high speed fan blowing through the tube. I not sure of the cfm requirements for cooling or what is acceptable for operating temperature. I gues a bit more research is needed. Thank GooeyGus for me.

 

[daguin]

Many thanks to you daguin! It fired up with no problem. A very purty blue. I did not run it long though. The tube gets quite warm even with a 80mm high speed fan blowing through the tube. I not sure of the cfm requirements for cooling or what is acceptable for operating temperature. I gues a bit more research is needed. Thank GooeyGus for me.

Yes it is purty. "BL" is the old designation that is now labeled "SL". That is the 488nm color line (one of my favorites).

The 80mm fan really isn't enough. You need a "high volume" type fan. You should move at least 60CFM. If the environment is warm or you are running it at high currents, you should move more than that.

Peace,
dave

 

[Dr_Evil]

How much power do you think that laser is putting out? I've seen one on Ebay and it says something about .50 watt.

 

[daguin]

How much power do you think that laser is putting out? I've seen one on Ebay and it says something about .50 watt.

 They all have the <.50W sticker on them.  The model number gives you the shape, rated power, and optic set

2202-5BLI breaks down like this

2202 = tells us that the laser in a cylindrical housing

5 = tells us that it is rated for 5mW at its "normal" operating current (around 6-7A).  They can be pushed well above the "rated" power, but usually no more than about 2-3 times the rated power.

BL = tells us that it has a "blue line" optics set.  "BL is the older designation for "SL (single line)" now.  It is producing 488nmn light  It's not really "blue."  It is a blue that really wants to be green.  I call it cyan.

I = tells us something about the original installation equipment.  There are too many of thees to try to keep track of

So this is a 5mW 488nm laser that could probably be pushed up to 15mW (unless something was swapped like what Diachi just got.)



Peace,
dave

**EDIT** There are some with a <.25W sticker. This one would be one of the lower powered ones that might have it.

 

[diachi]

If the tube has been swapped in it , it's a little harder to find out the model number, unless you know who swapped it so you can contact them and ask.

the model number on the back of mines says 2211-20SLE which should be 20mW single line. But the tube on mines was swapped about 6 months ago for a 60mW multi-line tube.

As Dave says they all have the <0.50W sticker or the <0.25W sticker on them.

I've currently got 3 fans on my argon, it was over heating with just the one, only problem now is the noise.

-Adam