Connection Help!

[Blastertron221]

I need this question answered, If I have a adjusted driver to 220ma for a 300ma diode can I directly connect it to the driver. If not, tell me how to connect it.

 

[Eudaimonium]

I need this question answered, If I have a adjusted driver to 220ma for a 300ma diode can I directly connect it to the driver. If not, tell me how to connect it.

I don't understand the question.

You have your driver setup. And you are asking if you can "directly" connect the diode? What does that mean? I am not aware of "indirect" connection methods.

If you meant, "Can I drive a diode with less current (200mA) than the diode's maximum (300mA)?" then yes, it's called "underdriving" and it's very safe for the diode.

 

[Blastertron221]

I don't understand the question.

You have your driver setup. And you are asking if you can "directly" connect the diode? What does that mean? I am not aware of "indirect" connection methods.

If you meant, "Can I drive a diode with less current (200mA) than the diode's maximum (300mA)?" then yes, it's called "underdriving" and it's very safe for the diode.

Ok sorry about that, I have just heard you need to use something in the middle before connecting the diode to the driver, Like a resistor on one of the wires before hooking it up to the driver. Also is 80MA less going to effect the beam a lot. I am aiming to get a powerful beam with 50MW at 220MA on a 300MA rated diode.

 

[Eudaimonium]

Ok sorry about that, I have just heard you need to use something in the middle before connecting the diode to the driver, Like a resistor on one of the wires before hooking it up to the driver. Also is 80MA less going to effect the beam a lot. I am aiming to get a powerful beam with 50MW at 220MA on a 300MA rated diode.

Well, that's a very weird thing to "hear".

Look, before you get to messing around with drivers and diodes which aren't really free, I recommend you go over some basic electronics tutorials and videos.

Serial and parallel connections, voltage and current, resistors, capacitors and semiconductors - that kind of thing.

It'll be far easier for you to ask questions in the future, and understand answers given. I am still struggling to understand what exactly are you trying to do, what are you connecting and where.

So for now let's start with some basic info:
What sort of driver are you using?
What diode do you have?

How is it all connected currently, and how do you want to connect it?
Can you provide a schematic you are working by?
Can you snap a photograph of your current setup?

Anything of this will help us answer you.

 

[Blastertron221]

Well, that's a very weird thing to "hear".

Look, before you get to messing around with drivers and diodes which aren't really free, I recommend you go over some basic electronics tutorials and videos.

Serial and parallel connections, voltage and current, resistors, capacitors and semiconductors - that kind of thing.

It'll be far easier for you to ask questions in the future, and understand answers given. I am still struggling to understand what exactly are you trying to do, what are you connecting and where.

So for now let's start with some basic info:
What sort of driver are you using?
What diode do you have?

How is it all connected currently, and how do you want to connect it?
Can you provide a schematic you are working by?
Can you snap a photograph of your current setup?

Anything of this will help us answer you.

Im using the Osram PL520 PL-520 3.8mm 50mW 520nm Single Mode Direct Green Diode laser diode, and the Survival Laser Fixed Current Driver set to 220MA.
And I am looking for a good schematic. "Before Ordering It"

 

[Eudaimonium]

Im using the Osram PL520 PL-520 3.8mm 50mW 520nm Single Mode Direct Green Diode laser diode, and the Survival Laser Fixed Current Driver set to 220MA.
And I am looking for a good schematic. "Before Ordering It"

So you don't yet have the components?

Well, at least that's better than "I ordered everything and don't know how to use nothing" - which is what we get regularly at the forum.

Anyhow, yeah - if the driver is already preset to 220mA, you should not have any trouble using it. Simply connect the diode to the output of the driver, and provide power.

NEVER POWER THE DRIVER without a diode attached to it. You'll destroy the driver, and then when you connect the diode, you'll destroy the diode as well.

Do you plan on using any host for this? What power source will you be using?

 

[Blastertron221]

So you don't yet have the components?

Well, at least that's better than "I ordered everything and don't know how to use nothing" - which is what we get regularly at the forum.

Anyhow, yeah - if the driver is already preset to 220mA, you should not have any trouble using it. Simply connect the diode to the output of the driver, and provide power.

NEVER POWER THE DRIVER without a diode attached to it. You'll destroy the driver, and then when you connect the diode, you'll destroy the diode as well.

Do you plan on using any host for this? What power source will you be using?

Thanks for asking. I am using the DIY C6 Host Assembly from Survival Lasers, and yes I am planing on getting the 2 x RCR123A batteries, They should give
me 6v which will power my driver.
Update: I am using RCR123A batteries for power.

 

[Eudaimonium]

Thanks for asking. I am using the DIY C6 Host Assembly from Survival Lasers, and yes I am planing on getting the 2 x RCR123A batteries, They should give
me 6v which will power my driver.
Update: I am using RCR123A batteries for power.

Just a sec, I've looked up the PL520 testing thread, and it appears 200mA is the best current to drive the diode at, anything over that is a bit overdriving it, so if you have a choice when ordering, go for 200mA version of the driver instead.

If you're ordering a kit from Survival, everything's pretty much plug'n'play.

OK more like solder-two-leads-screw-the-host-together'n'play but it's not very difficult.

Also in your messages you mentioned that I didn't answer the "main" question... the one can you connect the diode to 220mA rated driver? I believe I answered that very clearly in my first reply, which is "yes, it's safe".

 

[Pi R Squared]

That's perfect for that diode, I have a build with that diode and mine does 82mW with an acrylic lens. I advise against using a 3 element lens with that diode, you may get massive splash and less power, use an acrylic or a G2 or other single element lens, or maybe I just have a strange diode. If I remember right mine is driven at 250mA but it has a very large heat sink.

A C6 has very little room unless you use the drilled pill, without the drilled pill you may need to remove the rear part of the module, a 30mm full length module won't fit otherwise unless you use the extended and tapered copper heat sink, but then you still need the drilled pill or you have to make your wires very short.

If using the Survival Laser driver, don't use two 3V batteries, use two 3.7V Li-Ion rechargeables, 16340 or RCR123A, or you can buy the extension tube and use two 18650.

Alan

 

[Eudaimonium]

If using the Survival Laser driver, don't use two 3V batteries, use two 3.7V Li-Ion rechargeables, 16340 or RCR123A, or you can buy the extension tube and use two 18650.

Alan

That's not only longer runtime, that's much more awesome looking laser if you ask me.

 

[Pman]

Pay attention to what PI said about the lack of room in the C6. That's the one pain in the butt thing with that host. You really need to pay attention to not pinching a wire or screwing things together and ripping a wire off a connection. Personally I would recommend one of Mohgasm 501b hosts instead for a novice as there's lots more room to work with and he sells all the parts although he might not have the driver you need already set to the current you want but you could still buy the driver from SL. Then again that's not the same as connecting 2 wires.

 

[Blastertron221]

That's not only longer runtime, that's much more awesome looking laser if you ask me.

That's perfect for that diode, I have a build with that diode and mine does 82mW with an acrylic lens. I advise against using a 3 element lens with that diode, you may get massive splash and less power, use an acrylic or a G2 or other single element lens, or maybe I just have a strange diode. If I remember right mine is driven at 250mA but it has a very large heat sink.

A C6 has very little room unless you use the drilled pill, without the drilled pill you may need to remove the rear part of the module, a 30mm full length module won't fit otherwise unless you use the extended and tapered copper heat sink, but then you still need the drilled pill or you have to make your wires very short.

If using the Survival Laser driver, don't use two 3V batteries, use two 3.7V Li-Ion rechargeables, 16340 or RCR123A, or you can buy the extension tube and use two 18650.

Alan

Just a sec, I've looked up the PL520 testing thread, and it appears 200mA is the best current to drive the diode at, anything over that is a bit overdriving it, so if you have a choice when ordering, go for 200mA version of the driver instead.

If you're ordering a kit from Survival, everything's pretty much plug'n'play.

OK more like solder-two-leads-screw-the-host-together'n'play but it's not very difficult.

Also in your messages you mentioned that I didn't answer the "main" question... the one can you connect the diode to 220mA rated driver? I believe I answered that very clearly in my first reply, which is "yes, it's safe".

Pay attention to what PI said about the lack of room in the C6. That's the one pain in the butt thing with that host. You really need to pay attention to not pinching a wire or screwing things together and ripping a wire off a connection. Personally I would recommend one of Mohgasm 501b hosts instead for a novice as there's lots more room to work with and he sells all the parts although he might not have the driver you need already set to the current you want but you could still buy the driver from SL. Then again that's not the same as connecting 2 wires.

Thanks guys. Now I actually am using rechargeable batteries. I just though it didn't matter that much. I decided to try the Survival Laser S4™ Host Assembly. Instead of the C6. Is the S4 better. Also according to DTR's Laser Shop, the P520 diode can go to 300MA without killing it. So I will be fine. Thanks for all the replies. They all matter equally. Just remember my current question is, will the S4 pill make it so I don't need to drill. And I can just assemble the laser in it as is.
:thanks:

 

[Eudaimonium]

I'm not sure, honestly. I think the S4 is based off the C6, in that it has the same battery barrel, just different head style, if that's the case the pill is the same as C6.

BUT, I'm not sure, we'd need additional confirmation on this.

Also, C6 isn't the most cramped up host I've worked with. It's actually rather nice, as long as you can drill the pill, there's enough room for all sorts of different builds.

Now, C3 host... that's a challenge.

 

[Blastertron221]

I'm not sure, honestly. I think the S4 is based off the C6, in that it has the same battery barrel, just different head style, if that's the case the pill is the same as C6.

BUT, I'm not sure, we'd need additional confirmation on this.

Also, C6 isn't the most cramped up host I've worked with. It's actually rather nice, as long as you can drill the pill, there's enough room for all sorts of different builds.

Now, C3 host... that's a challenge.

Where would I drill. What does drilling the pill mean?
Sorry Im a laser noob. I will show you the finished build.

 

[Pi R Squared]

No the S4 is the same size, just slightly different. They have interchangeable parts, you still have the same very small space inside. As I said you can remove the rear part of the module and keep your wires short, but it is better if you buy the drilled pill.

Alan

 

[Blastertron221]

No the S4 is the same size, just slightly different. They have interchangeable parts, you still have the same very small space inside. As I said you can remove the rear part of the module and keep your wires short, but it is better if you buy the drilled pill.

Alan

Would this pill work.
DIY 220mA Driver & Pill Module