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Burning Anemones with a Laser

Rukh

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Sep 10, 2013
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Hey all, new here, but ive lurker around for a while

I am a Reef Aquairum Enthusiast. I have about 400 Gallons of salt water reef tank in my home. A major nusiance to all reefers is the much hated "Aptasia Anemone". These little bastards are a pest anemone that typically dont get larger than a penny, but boy, can they breed out of control quickly. They hitch a ride into our systems from coral and rock taken from the ocean.
Now the accepted method of nuking them is with a paste of high PH chemical. It works, but its slow. Others have played around with electricity, but it seems counter intuitive with your hands in a giant vat of salt water.

Recently, I've heard of people having very good success with certain 1000mw+ lasers.

My question is, what would make an ideal setup to burn soft tissue through about 3/4 of extremely clear glass and 8-12 inches of water.

Also, though im new with lasers, I AM a firearms guy. I understand the danger of the laser. I enjoy my vision and would like to keep it that way. A reccomendation on a superb pair of safty glasses to go with the laser would be appreciated!
 

Spooky

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Jun 1, 2013
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Heya mate,

Try down at the lower end at say 445 to reduce absorption by the water of higher wavelengths.
2w+ would work very well (a friend uses similar on his reef Aq) and won't break the bank price wise, Lots of very talented builders here, Bloompyle, DTR, Blord to name just a few.A laser from one of the Pro's here will be a quality item that gives real output (not some best guess Chinese made ebay junk)

Glasses wise,

Find the best and most expensive pair you would like to buy, then buy the next pair UP in price. While some cheaper chinese glasses are ok(ish) it's not really worth betting your eyesight on saving a few bucks.

cheers

Dave
 

blasterman

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Evertime I try to zap aiptasia with my 1.5watt blue the buggers just retreat back into their rock.

I spray some vinegar onto them with a plastic syringe at close range before they retract, then repeat a couple times. Does the trick
 

AJ_Dual

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I'm not a fishtank guy, but I've seen it done on Youtube,

The trick is to get a laser with adjustable focus so you can dial it in for max focus right at the depth you need in the tank for the pest organisim. Also, you'd want to point through the tank glass/polymer as straight perpendicular as possible so you're loosing as little watage as possible through the glass at oblique angles etc. Also watch out for reflections as even a 5-10% reflection of 1000-2000mW is not eye-safe at any distance, and could still burn at the focus length you've set.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1aewhMfY71I

And besides being less absorbed by the water, the 445nm blue lasers, these are the only ones that will give you the wattage you need for a halfway decent price anyway.

An even more energetic 405 violet "blu-ray" laser's output might kill even faster since the photons are more penetrating, more likely to break molecules and denature protiens etc. and carry more energy per photon, but it'll be hard to find one more than 400mW for sale.
 
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TheDukeAnumber1

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I can share a little experience here, I not a saltwater guy but I have kept freshwater for 10+ years and for the last couple have used lasers to remove pests and algae. A 445nm setup is effective.

Firstly glasses.

Your cost effective option - works as good as any out there.
Amazon.com: Uvex S1933X Skyper Safety Eyewear, Black Frame, SCT-Orange UV Extreme Anti-Fog Lens: Home Improvement

Less cost effective option but they are rated.
Visible : ARG Style 34 High Tech Wrap Around

IMO the best setup for pest elimination is the 9mm 445nm diode pushed to +2amps. This lets you kill them as quickly as possible, although running an M140 445nm diode at 1.25amps will still be plenty of power to kill pests quickly, but not quite as fast as a 9mm at +2amps.

The bigger the heat sink the more run time you will get and I'd always recommend copper heat sinks to protect your diodes. The most cost effective host you'll probably find is the C6, with a copper a sink you can run a maxed out 9mm for about a min before you need to let it cool and at 1.25amp for several minutes before it needs to cool.

Since your going for burning it's imperative you get a G1, G2, or stock 9mm lens, and if your going to spend the $ on a single element lens you might as well get the 9mm 445nm diode because it usually comes with one included.

That's all for now GL killing pests.
 

mhemling33

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Oct 19, 2012
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I agree with the duke on this one.

Here is a list on the parts I would recommend to anyone looking to do a 9mm build

9mm with x-drive 2.3a w/ g2 lens for $153 from DTR.
https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/9mm-445nm

This is one of my go to hosts for decent run times, ease of use, and the side clicky. It is the C11 from mrcrouse. You can get it with a knurled focus knob for $35.
http://laserpointerforums.com/f39/prices-dropped-c11-side-clicky-1x18650-or2x18350-host-kits-77205.html

2 x IMR 18350 800mah batteries (nice for high drain) $11.88
2 IMR 18350 Battery Li MN 800mAh 3 7V High Drain Unprotected Red V1 Flat Top | eBay

Nitecore Intellichare I2 from illumination supply $11.99+shipping
https://illuminationsupply.com/chargers-c-48_51/nitecore-intellicharge-i2-p-448.html#.UjH5nRb092Y

or

Nitecore Intellicharge I4 from illumination supply $16.99 + shipping
https://illuminationsupply.com/chargers-c-48_51/nitecore-intellicharge-i4-p-225.html#.UjH6Dhb092Y

and now for the most important thing you need....

Uvex S1933X Skyper Safety Eyewear $8.18 from amazon
Amazon.com: Uvex S1933X Skyper Safety Eyewear, Black Frame, SCT-Orange UV Extreme Anti-Fog Lens: Home Improvement
 




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