drlava
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One of the treatments you can do to Kenom's run 1 barrels is anodization. The anodization process grows a hard aluminum oxide layer into and onto the Al which protects it from scratches, skin oils, salt, and the elements. The materials required and the anodizing process is quite simple:
1) Plug and mask parts that should not be anodized
2) Clean the aluminum with soap
3) Desmut the aluminum in lye (sodium hydroxide, caustic soda) to remove natural oxide
4) Anodize at 12A/sq ft. in 50/50 battery acid (sulfuric) and DeIonised water
5) Dye the part the desired color
6) Boil in water to seal the dye and Al Oxide pores for final protection
Information and semi-guides are found:
http://astro.neutral.org/anodise2.shtml
http://www.bryanpryor.com/Anodizing.php
http://www.nonlintec.com/anodizing/
For lye/desmut I used drano kitchen crystals
Battery acid was available cheaply at a local auto shop
I prepared one of Kenom's model 1 barrels (kryton) by plugging the end holes and washing. From this point on, wear thick gloves to protect you and keep finger oils off the part. Two tablespoons of drano lye crystals in warm water dissolved and let the barrel soak for a few minutes till it has an even grey color. In between every step there must be a rinse in distilled/deionised water so that was done after lye desmut. Next an anode connection must be made to the part ( I used a section of heatsink) out of aluminum and the part placed in the 50/50 battery acid bath. The bath has a cathode made of aluminum foil. Only aluminum should be in the bath, other metals will be dissolved and affect the anodization process. The cathode should have at least twice the surface area of the part you are anodizing. Attach the power + terminal to the part and - terminal to the aluminum foil. Some people use battery chargers, I used a lab power supply for current control.
The current used can vary, I found a current of 2-3A worked for the kenbarrel. Over that and the oxide didn't seem to build up. Be careful not to breathe the acid fumes, do this all outside and with a box of baking soda handy for acid spill neutralization.
After anodising (it is done when the resistance increases to the point where current is almost zero) rinse the part again and dye it. Rit fabric dyes do not work here, get an anodisation dye for the best results. To seal in the dye, use hot steam bursts from an iron on the part and then boil it (not rolling boil) for 30-40 minutes to hydrate and seal the oxide pores.
Here is a kenbarrel (kryton) after plain anodisation and after it wouldn't tke the Rit dye (shiny white like Mac style):
Was hoping to turn it red for a 20x diode, but white anodization doesn't look half bad either!
Please post your comments and experiences here! I hope this inspires more people to try the process.
1) Plug and mask parts that should not be anodized
2) Clean the aluminum with soap
3) Desmut the aluminum in lye (sodium hydroxide, caustic soda) to remove natural oxide
4) Anodize at 12A/sq ft. in 50/50 battery acid (sulfuric) and DeIonised water
5) Dye the part the desired color
6) Boil in water to seal the dye and Al Oxide pores for final protection
Information and semi-guides are found:
http://astro.neutral.org/anodise2.shtml
http://www.bryanpryor.com/Anodizing.php
http://www.nonlintec.com/anodizing/
For lye/desmut I used drano kitchen crystals
Battery acid was available cheaply at a local auto shop
I prepared one of Kenom's model 1 barrels (kryton) by plugging the end holes and washing. From this point on, wear thick gloves to protect you and keep finger oils off the part. Two tablespoons of drano lye crystals in warm water dissolved and let the barrel soak for a few minutes till it has an even grey color. In between every step there must be a rinse in distilled/deionised water so that was done after lye desmut. Next an anode connection must be made to the part ( I used a section of heatsink) out of aluminum and the part placed in the 50/50 battery acid bath. The bath has a cathode made of aluminum foil. Only aluminum should be in the bath, other metals will be dissolved and affect the anodization process. The cathode should have at least twice the surface area of the part you are anodizing. Attach the power + terminal to the part and - terminal to the aluminum foil. Some people use battery chargers, I used a lab power supply for current control.
The current used can vary, I found a current of 2-3A worked for the kenbarrel. Over that and the oxide didn't seem to build up. Be careful not to breathe the acid fumes, do this all outside and with a box of baking soda handy for acid spill neutralization.
After anodising (it is done when the resistance increases to the point where current is almost zero) rinse the part again and dye it. Rit fabric dyes do not work here, get an anodisation dye for the best results. To seal in the dye, use hot steam bursts from an iron on the part and then boil it (not rolling boil) for 30-40 minutes to hydrate and seal the oxide pores.
Here is a kenbarrel (kryton) after plain anodisation and after it wouldn't tke the Rit dye (shiny white like Mac style):
Was hoping to turn it red for a 20x diode, but white anodization doesn't look half bad either!
Please post your comments and experiences here! I hope this inspires more people to try the process.
Meant Sulfuric.
As much as I don't like working with caustic soda and powerful acid I really really REALLY need to try this!Once I set it up I think I'm going to anodize every piece of aluminum I can find 
