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5 amp driver for nubm44

VirtueViolater

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Was thinking about running my nubm44 at 5amps and would like to know if anyone has done the same and what kind of life can I expect. Figure I'll go for broke because I'm having to decan it anyway. (Spot burned into window)
 



Isaac Clarke

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that is too much...we have had member with a 5amp nubm07e and it didn't last long at all.. and there's no poer increases from going from 4.5amp t 5 amp as pointed out by a member.
 

Lifetime17

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Hi VV,
That 44 diode decaned in my opinion should be ran at 4.5A, And you will get longer life from it. And with the can on 5A's is fine to. thats the way i run mine short and respectable duty cycles you'll e fine.

Rich:)
 

VirtueViolater

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Hi VV,
That 44 diode decaned in my opinion should be ran at 4.5A, And you will get longer life from it. And with the can on 5A's is fine to. thats the way i run mine short and respectable duty cycles you'll e fine.

Rich:)
Thanks Rich, kinda wanting another one anyway lol, so if it dims out, so be it!
 

RedCowboy

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My 1st 44 I ran at 5.0 and it was strong, but it only lasted a couple months, I did run it hard every day and I overheated it, that's why I go big on heat sinks now.

I have one that's been at 4.5a through 2 builds and is still strong and a double at 4.5 a and one more corrected at 4.5a

4.5 seems good, you could push to 4.75a but if you go 5.0 I would keep duty cycles short.

However they are very tough diodes.

If you can test your output and you don't see any fold back until like 5.75 then 5 amps is ok, but if fold back starts before 5.5 then I would stay under 5, simply because everything wears down and you need to leave a little room.

Even in the projectors over their 20k hour life they turn up the power to compensate, that is one reason they are not pushed to the max, also the higher you drive it the less efficient it is and that means more byproduct heat.

At 4.5 you should get a long service life, I have been doing well there.

Also you need good batteries, they make a real difference, the SXD minimum is 6.8 v under load, I have started running 3 cells because I am doing 2 diode builds.

The Efest IMR hold voltage under load well.

 

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Isaac Clarke

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My 1st 44 I ran at 5.0 and it was strong, but it only lasted a couple months, I did run it hard every day and I overheated it, that's why I go big on heat sinks now.

I have one that's been at 4.5a through 2 builds and is still strong and a double at 4.5 a and one more corrected at 4.5a

4.5 seems good, you could push to 4.75a but if you go 5.0 I would keep duty cycles short.

However they are very tough diodes.

If you can test your output and you don't see any fold back until like 5.75 then 5 amps is ok, but if fold back starts before 5.5 then I would stay under 5, simply because everything wears down and you need to leave a little room.

Even in the projectors over their 20k hour life they turn up the power to compensate, that is one reason they are not pushed to the max, also the higher you drive it the less efficient it is and that means more byproduct heat.

At 4.5 you should get a long service life, I have been.
Red cowboy i have never seen any of your red builds.....

may be you should rename to blue cowboy instead... the Red is too misleading... i thought you like red build the most...:D(jokes)
 

VirtueViolater

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Ok, thanks R/C, May just go with 4.5, gonna need a diode for my 4amp fixed drive.

I have another question, what's the best way to unglue a driver from a heatsink?
 
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RedCowboy

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Red cowboy i have never seen any of your red builds.....

may be you should rename to blue cowboy instead... the Red is too misleading... i thought you like red build the most...:D(jokes)




I drilled wire holes in the sides of the back halfs so I could adjust run out at the back with a screw plate.





After this I built a beam expander and I had a 1 watt burner before the 1st 445 was ever thought about, this was 8 years ago.





I was burning with reds when you guys were tearing apart game consoles for that 100mw 405 :p
 
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VirtueViolater

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Hey Red, are you getting 3 cells in the mx? (Haven't recieved mine as of yet)
 
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RedCowboy

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They hold 2 but theres a screw together version made to run 1 or 2 cells and you can remove that section and put it on a 2 cell unit and it fit's 3 like a champ.
Chinese quality is quite good today.





p.s. 2 x 26650 IMR work just fine, I like to burn for 5 minutes and with this heat sink I can, but I am building for 2 x nubm44's now and may cut that back to 2 - 3 minutes, in the cooler months you can run longer.







These corrected numb44's light cardboard at 20 feet and are running at 4.5amps.
 

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VirtueViolater

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When you say corrected Red, you mean no gball and g2?

Crap! Shoulda orders another mx
 
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RedCowboy

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If you get the split tube type you can set them up as 1, 2, or 3 cells...or 4 if you wanted to, then the single could use 2 18350's with the included sleeve.

They are just so easy to use.

Here's the guy I bought from, CLICK the green.



---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

No G2 and 6x cylindrical pair to correct the rapid divergence of the fast axis, it makes a world of difference for medium range.

At 15 feet the G2 makes a 2 inch line, after correction its 5/16 to 3/8 depending on how you set it up.

I have one running negative divergence, it actually gets tighter to about 6-8 feet the other is set to infinity, it's not a huge difference and multi mode is a real limiting factor, but fun at 25 feet is now possible.

I do wood burning art and like to use 4 x 8 plywood against the back of my block and brick house. I am very safety conscious.

This is the NUBM44 with G2 and 6x pair running at 4.5 amps.
REMEMBER TO WEAR EYE PROTECTION AND ALWAYS EXERCISE CAUTION
 

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VirtueViolater

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Hey Red, have you ever tried the 9mm x 12 mm screw down diode modules?

Also have you ever metered 2cells vs 3cells?
 
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RedCowboy

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Yes, 2 fully charged IRMRN 5500mAh 26650's sag from 8.4 to 7.5 right off the start, but 2 green efest 4200mAh hold over 8 volts.

This is with the SXD at 4.5a, the SXD is good, it has protection for your diode.

Buy these and recharge when they get to 3.6v because the SXD needs 6.8v minimum to hold output as most drivers will.

These are Good. HERE


You mean the Budget Beams screw together heatsink? Yes but you will get it hot fast, the nubm44 makes serious heat. 30 seconds on goes by fast, you will want more.

He can make you a good sink. HERE

YOU DO HAVE PROPER LASER SAFETY GLASSES, YOU ABSOLUTLY MUST. http://www.survivallaserusa.com/Safety_Goggles/cat1667093_1527285.aspx
 
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Shakenawake

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.... I like to burn for 5 minutes and with this heat sink I can, but I am building for 2 x nubm44's now and may cut that back to 2 - 3 minutes, in the cooler months you can run longer.
this winter I was out one night with one that was low enough power with cold enough temp outside to allow continuous use on one that would otherwise over heat. like a cigarette smoker who freezes their butt off for a fix, I'm freezing mine off to get unlimited use. I hate the summer for lasers, my DPSS hates it too.

wow. I'm always unlucky with this stuff. I'm running @ 4.5 and I dont think I've gone over 2 minutes, And mine is degrading. it is in a heatsink bigger than yours that is copper. I'm just gonna run it till it dies all the way, it still does over 5W, but am wondering if I should replace with the 06 or another 44

Hey red, could I convince you to make a slip over of correctives for my unit? I have some ideas about how to do it. if not, know anyone else who might? like maybe CDBEAM777?

I have an idea that would allow the slip over to be removed which would allow focus of the uncorrected g2 beam for max power for close range stuff, yet still allow quick and perfect alignment when the slip over is added. I think I might prefer such a setup to my expander, as it takes a substantial amount of power away. it does allow long distance stuff, but ~25% is actually quite the power loss to me
 

Alien Laser

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I have my at 5.A hehe get a 4.5A the 5A will discharge the battery much faster :)
 
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