1+ Watt, Non-aixiz housing, and 405-G-2 lens

[zenith828]

Hello guys I'm kinda new to LPF and had a few questions on the build I am doing. I know my first mistake is buying my diode, enclosure and lens off the bay (i swear i will buy off LPF next time).

- I am using one of those 445nm 1+ Watt diodes taken out of a DLP projector.

- As far as housing goes, I am using this housing that I found on ebay (pic below). The reason I picked this housing over the aixiz housing is because of the metal threads on the focus adjust. I had problems with that before on the aixiz w/ their plastic threading (i did not use Teflon tape, but the threads where starting to wear from constant use). Also I picked this one because of the 405-G-2 lens, I had read on LPF that the 405-G-1 lens will have a better power output then the glass aixiz lenses, so I assumed the same w/ the G-2.

- To drive it i was planning on using a TI switching regulator due to it's high 90% percent efficiency. To power I am going to use 4 X 18650 Lithium Li-ion 3.7V 2400mAh Rechargeable. I think the "2400mAh" is probably over rated but even if these things give me 750mAh i will be fine. I would be combining 2 sets of 2 to get each set at 7.4 Volts and run the sets in parallel.

I would like any suggestions on my build you can offer, other then that I only have a few questions.

- I am semi concerned about the power output of the batteries. Using this chart I found made for this diode i calculated at max power i would be using about 5.78 watts of power (this includes 10% energy loss from driver).

Split between 2 sets of 2 batteries 2.88 watts for each set running at 7.4V (2 in series). Would the 18650s be able to pull that much current?

- I noticed that in the diagram of the housing, the diode is pushed past flush. Should i push it past flush when I install it? And what would LPF recommend I use to press it with?

- I have not done much planning as far as the heat sink goes. What would LPF recommend?

 

[HaloBlu]

I've used lasers4u modules. I like them, useful for water proof / resistant builds. I believe lasers4u is the supplier of 405-G-1 / 405-G-2 lenses.
They do need the diode pushed past flush.

Suggestions for a diode press http://laserpointerforums.com/f44/inexepnsive-diode-press-tool-52960.html

 

[zenith828]

My initial reaction would be to push it in as far as it will go but i think i've read on LPF that it's not necessary or it messes with the focus. I guess I could ask the seller. I would really like suggestions on heat sinks and answers to my driver setup.

 

[HaloBlu]

Are they good quality batteries? Not sure about random cheap one.
lighthound.com & LarryDFW on here sell quality ones. 18650 battery test 2011

There are a lot of options for heatsinks. Are you looks to make your own? For a flashlight host, custom, labby? Several members sell custom heatsinks.

Are you planning a constant current driver?

 

[DTR]

The reason I picked this housing over the aixiz housing is because of the metal threads on the focus adjust. I had problems with that before on the aixiz w/ their plastic threading

Are you talking about using the acrylic lens with a 1W 445?

 

[zenith828]

Are you talking about using the acrylic lens with a 1W 445?

That was with a previous build w/ a 250mw Red laser. And that was only because I bought it in a kit pre-assembled years ago.


I'm using UltraFire batteries. That page was very helpful (bookmarked). Judging by the Over rating on the 3600mah (yielding only 2400mAh at .5A discharge). I'm guessing the ones I bought "2400mAh" will only be 1600mAh at .5A load. And if the total power consumed when the laser is on full power is 5.78 watts split between 2 sets of 2 batteries will be 1.45 watts per battery or about 0.4A. So each battery has 5.92Wh at 1.45 watts a piece that means I theoretically run the laser for 4 hours if I kept everything cool enough.

Could some one link me to some good info about heat sinks. I may be interested in buying one off a member of LPF.

 

[zenith828]

Oh ya and here is the TI switching regulator I am using PTH08T230W

And the pdf in case you are interested.

http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/pth08t230w.pdf

 

[zenith828]

Here is the heat sink i was planning on using, I would probably cut it in half. It is made of solid copper. How would i go about making a hole to put the assembly in? Meaning what sized drill bit?

 

[zenith828]

I think this may be a better shaped heatsink for a laser, and probably easier to center. I'm pretty sure it is solid copper.

 

[laserhead2112]

And also don't forget to get the right safty googles and hey welcome to lpf..

 

[Kevlar]

Meaning what sized drill bit?

What size is your module?

 

[zenith828]

What size is your module?

10.5 mm diameter X 19 mm long

Would that mean I drill a 10mm hole? And would i need thermal compound?

 

[Kevlar]

10.5 mm diameter X 19 mm long

Would that mean I drill a 10mm hole? And would i need thermal compound?

Sorry about the late response, been very busy lately.

Do you have any drill bits on hand? I'm not sure how readily available 10.5mm drill bits are but you can order them online.

13/32" = 10.3188mm. I would think that should work because there is usually some wobble with the bit so the hole comes out a tad bigger.

Thermal compound is a good idea, but necessary. If you use it don't use a lot. It is only meant to fill the microscopic holes/spaces between the two surfaces. Too much thermal compound can be worse than not using it all.

 

[zenith828]

Hello, I am back after attempting my build. And let me tell you, it didn't go well:cryyy: .

I accidentally destroyed my TI voltage switch, I'm not quite sure how I managed that. Fortunately I got a new one. I think it might have something to do with the order in which I attached things. Here is the diagram.

I think it is something to do with the connection to the laser, I'm not quite sure. If any one knows what that symbol means please tell me.


And the next thing I screwed up ended up being a little more pricey.

I know it is quite painful to look at.

As far as the heat sink goes I'm not quite sure if I messed this up or if it will be fine.

I drilled in from the top and that made the top a little wider then the bottom and does not contact the housing at the top. Should I drill another or will it be fine?

 

[DTR]

Man that sucks.:yabbem:

 

[jib77]

I think it is something to do with the connection to the laser, I'm not quite sure. If any one knows what that symbol means please tell me.

The "-O" is a pin, the ">-" is the socket. Do you know you need a constant current source not constant voltage?