LPF Site Supporter
- Jun 24, 2010
1.6W White Powder Coat 17500 Ehgemus Host
I have been waiting to get some powder coated hosts from Ehgumes and here is the first of a few new ones that I have. This host was fit to a Panasonic 17500 battery. It is a little more compact than a typical 18650 host and still has a high discharge rate giving the ability to do a higher powered unit.
I built a white powder coated Ehgemus 14650 for another member that asked me to make him a 635 unit and I liked the color so much I decided to get a white one for myself. As always this Ehgemus unit is very well constructed. Here are some shots of the this great host.
So here is what you are going to need to build this unit. The host which breaks down as follows. The tailcap, driver pocket, host body, focus adapter and direct press head. Then you will need the 17500 battery, lens, A140 diode, two flexdrives and a rectangular aluminum heatsink.
As you can see the newer direct press heads are internal and completely hidden when the unit is all put together. Which also means that it does not have to have any powder coating on any part of it. The powder coating does somewhat act like an insulation but as you are using the whole host body as heat sink it should not be an issue.
He does an amazing job on the powder coating check out how clean it is.
I started out by putting a little thermal compound on the lip the diode seats on for maximum thermal transfer. Be careful not to use very much. In fact I wipe it back out when I am done so that it just has a small layer of it on the lip. You don't want to press it in and find you squeezed a bunch of thermal compound into your head that can get on the diode window ruining it.
If you can see there is a very thin layer on the lip.
Then I pressed the diode in.
Next I got two flexdrives, wired them up and set them to 800mA each for 1.6A.
Then I cut down that aluminum block to the width of the flexdrive and bonded them back to back with the heatsink in the middle with some thermal adhesive.
Once that had hardened I removed the negative driver input leads as I won't be using them on this build and shortened and soldered the corresponding leads on the two driver together.
Now since I removed the negative driver input lead I need to provide a path to ground so I bent the case pin into the negative pin and added a little solder to make it continuous with the case which is the ground to provide the driver with the negative input. This method will not work with all driver but the flex's will work this way.
Next I put some shrink tubing on the driver output wires in preparation to solder them to the diode. Remember to always short these two wires together before hooking them to the diode.
Then I soldered the leads to the diode pins. Since I pre-tinned the leads I did not need any extra solder.
Then I moved the shrink tubing down over the pins and used heat to shrink them.
I wrapped the driver in some electrical tape.
I packed all the wiring into the driver pocket and put some thermal adhesive to keep it sealed.
Then I carefully pushed the pocket and head together and let the adhesive set. And that is about it for the assembly.:beer:
Screwed the head into the host body, added a lens and a battery. She is ready go so I tried it out.:evil:
I tested it with an Aixiz lens and it is giving 1.4W so with a G-1 it should give 1.6W.:evil:
I have said it before that Ehgemus is a great asset to this forum and I have had the fortune to utilize his skills many times. This host is no exception. It has a great look and feel and is certainly a great addition to my reviews. Thanks for reading hope you enjoyed it.