do you want to know the layout of the red diode? here it is: http://laserpointerforums.com/f50/phr-803t-red-ir-diode-pinout-currents-36212.html
( next time search the forum first yourself before starting a thread) =D
thanks for the pics. since i see that it is glued to the host, i would still say:" force the heatsink out". the glue should break easily. make sure you remove the glue residue before putting it back in. and glue it w/ new glue. :D:beer:
thanks for the pictures and testing. and about the drivers.
i think it gets warmer because, like i said,the voltage isn't exactly the same, the other driver will work harder( more current) and heat up. the more difference in V, the more heat.
this is the cheapest and easiest way and i would advice you to use these.
@rhd. in theory they can be paralleled, but it is a bit dangerous. they are built for flashlights and they are not as precise as laser drivers. if the voltage isn't exactly the same, one driver will do all the work and...
i would force the heatsink out. assuming that it is glued on to the host. i wouldn't take the risk of damaging a driver. if you can post some pics it would be a lot more easier to help you.:D
i just searched for "laser weapon" and i foud alot of information. i came across something and it looked similar to this one. the only thing i had to do is search for the exact name.
don't u still have to solder it if u got a test socket? i thought they were designed to put solder on them instead of putting it on the diode pins. please correct me if i'm wrong.
it mostly says in a data sheet. for example: 50mA min, 300mA adviced , 600mA treshold. doesn't the datasheet say anything about it or don't u have one?