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So I measured the current today off my 1A walwort with 3V input. At full RPM, with a 1" diameter, 3mm thick FS mirror, it draws 800mA.

I don't have a datasheet, unfortunately, and I'm not to sure about current draw either. I was having a problem with current draw on them myself. My plan was to power my spiro with a 1A walwart OR 3 Tenergy NiMH 10,000 mAh D size batteries. I also have a 50mW green module in there that...

I used these motors for my spiro, the have a flat top and bottom: 1.5-3VDC Metal Gear Motor - RadioShack.com

Here's a good link for the basic LM317 driver: Laser driver - It can be done A vice is pretty much a necessity.

^^^ Those look good. Please take the time to read BB's post (he put a lot of time and effort into it for your benefit) and watch those videos he linked to, they are VERY helpful.

The iron you bought looks good. Can you post pics of the board? I doubt you bought the wrong stuff. Is the solder rosin-core? Flux, or rosin, helps the solder stick to whatever it is your soldering. Here is a decent video on basic soldering, there are many, many more, just check out youtube

Like dtr said, linear drivers. The one he recommend from jib are very good. There are several members who are very knowledgeable in electronics, hopefully they can chime in.

Could he put 2-3 high amp handling rectifier diodes (1NXXXX) in series between the battery negative and driver negative to drop to voltage of the batteries before it gets to the driver? Im not expert in electronics but it sounded good in theory to me. :thinking:

Thanks guys. :beer: I will have my therapist and hypnotist send you the bill. (J/K) :crackup:

Aww Dave! I didn't need to know that about bread, cheese, and yogurt. Ignorance is (was) bliss. :whistle:

I'm not sure I understand what you're trying to do. Are you looking for round drivers or just a round PCB board? If you have a large enough host they don't have to be round. BTW, if I need to cut down a PCB I use some wire snips, tin snips, or a dremel type tool. With the dremel tool you can...

And that's why I refuse to eat fungus...

A diffraction grating is what you need to split up those beautiful beams. There was a thread recently with that info, I'll try to find it. I remember it say how many lines the diffraction grating should have because if you have too many, the lines won't be very bright. EDIT: Here it is...

What you want to look for is 405nm and focus-able. This way you can focus to a flood and cover a bigger area. I would suggest getting at least a 100mW (200mW would be better) because when you have it focused to a flood the intensity is lowered. Think of a flashlight that can be focused, like...

Not a good idea. The threads littered by spam still contain much usefully information and/or history that should be seen by all that come across them. The mods here are fairly wise. If a thread needs to be completely deleted then it will be done, but if it has been not, it has been for a good...

Looks like the lens is pretty dirty but other than that it seems ok. Try what DTR said and screwing the lens in further. Any chance of you taking a video of you adjusting the lens and seeing the output?

Just buying safety glasses isn't enough. What about the person's eyes in the houses he was shining the laser at? If he wants to be stupid and blind himself that's one thing but blinding an innocent bystander is NOT acceptable! :tsk:

Please do. :beer: I know the members who started those threads wouldn't mind. The more noobs who read them the better everyone will be.

@onlymines, click on the links in my sig. Take your time reading all of them, they will help answer most of your questions. There are lots of pictures for you. ;) I found this forum back in February of 2010 and read for hours a day before I finally joined and started asking questions...

I'd get one of swims super overpec for $19 shipped I think. Mine metered at 51mW but that's probably at the low end. http://laserpointerforums.com/f39/swimminsurfer256s-new-overspec-super-overspec-5mw-greenie-shop-stock-65618.html