Thank you for the info Red Cowboy! I was just looking at those clamp meters, lol.
Since the NUBM44 runs nominally at 6W to 7W of light output while the driver is outputting 20W, this shows how inefficient laser diodes tend to be? If so, that's a big hit in efficiency rating for the laser...
Excellent! Thank you for the schematic ! Very helpful.
So I guess you also disconnect the positive leg of the diode (if its already connected).
So if the positive laser diode lead has not been soldered yet, a regular multimeter can be used.
Once the diode leads are soldered and finished, a...
The leads from the driver to diode will be rather long (at least 3 inches) due to the host setup.
As for having to de-solder one leg of a diode, wouldn't it be possible to simply contact the meter test leads to the solder joints?
I want to adjust the driver's on-board potentiometer with the laser diode already connected - i.e. no test load.
Do most of you simply turn the potentiometer screw a very small amount, turn the power on, measure the current, turn the power off, and continue this process over and over until the...
Ok, so you sometimes set your driver current with your laser diode attached (rather than a test load) - using a inductive current meter.
Is an inductive current meter that much better than a multimeter?
ok, thank you the link to the test load. I may get it.
Is there a safe way to set the pot on the driver with the laser diode attached?
For example, if the BB-8M driver is pre-set at 1.6A, can I turn off the power, slowly turn the pot in a very small increment, turn the power back on and measure the current to the laser diode with a amp meter, and...
Augie said they do have a few BB-8M drivers in stock.
However, they do not set the current to the customer's spec for those BB-8M drivers (although they do provide that service for some of their other drivers). I don't know what the rationale is behind that though.
Since I'm not proficient...
The protection circuit usually senses when V reaches 3V or slightly less, maybe 2.8V.
I assume the protection circuit does not know whether that 3V is for that one battery alone or for the combined batteries in series. Is this understanding in error? I hope so because that would solve my...
The ACS4500BU and ACS5500BU drivers require a supply voltage (Vin) of 6V to 14V.
When using two lithium batteries in series, will the 6V requirement act to shut down the driver and protect the batteries when they both reach 3V?
If not, what else can be done to protect from...
ok, thank you for the info.
When you say running at 2.3A or 3.5A while decanned doesn't make a real difference, I assume you mean diode life will be short either way because of diode contamination.
I'm going with the new unmodified diode for longer life.
As for the unfocusable factory g-ball...
I notice many here using 3.5A for this diode but on ebay, the specs for this diode shows a nominal setting of 2.3A and maximum of 3.5A.
Does anyone know what a good safe current setting for long life is without going unnecessarily low?
The difference between 2.3A and 3.5A is huge and 2.3A...