I use a little arbour press for this job. The press stamp has a 10 mm hole at the bottom.
I turned a 10mm brass rod, with a bore sufficient to take the diode pins without damage. That works fine for me. As I told, I did not kill the diode by pressing, I cut the wrong pin off!
I killed two pen laser pointers, because the Driver had a reverse polarity compared to the blue laser pointer. But nobody mentioned it when i bought the laser pen.
Maybe your Diode is nearly dead and runs in the low LED mode.
I think you are right and I have to learn much more about laser diodes. The first diode runs even after the wrong wiring, but only for seconds.
The second Diode runs at my laboratory power source at 50 mA. Then I pressed it into the heat sink and it was dead.
I think, it was a...
today I got my two 505 nm diodes. Both did not work until I realized, that they where case positiv. So I connected minus with plus and plus with minus. After that, I could see some bluish green. After this test, I pressed the diodes into a DTR module. What should I say, they are gone...
in some forums you will find a register, called data files and downloads. Normaly ,comments to this files are not allowed. This keeps this data clean and compact.
Is there a data file for the diode list? If not, I will copy it with the snipping tool.
I think, in future I will...
I searched this forum for a laser Diode comparison list, but could not find one.
There are some compact information at the DTR shop, also a lot of information hidden in numerous threads. I would like to see a compact comparison list with information like : mono/(multimode; wavelength...
yes, I share your opinion, that brass is not the best choice for a heatsink. I use copper 99,99% for this purpose. I also have some rods of nickel copper that would look fine. Maybe I use this material for a little low power laserpointer host.
brass is not the worst choice for thermal conduction. It has similar conduction to Aluminium alloys. The best choice for the money is pure copper or pure Aluminium. But did you ever machined pure Aluminium? It is a pain, also pure copper ist not nice to machine.
Oh I forgot silver, but...
whenever I need a tap and can buy it for a reasonable price, I will buy it.
I only make special tools, if I am not able to order ist.
Not enough time to do all the things I want.
after I noticed, that my first selfmade tap has 11,56*0,5 mm, I made another one. With the support of the german forum "Zerspanungsbude" the second attempt looks better and cuts much better . With this lesson learned, I think special sized taps will be no problem in future.
today I made a 11,5*0,5mm tap from tool steel. I had a test run in brass. The tap works in that material, although the grinding of the free angle of the cutter was handmade an a little bit poor.
The fit of the beam expander is not a snug fit, it is a little bit loose, but it works. So...
I finished my adapter for the beam expander. Without the M11,5*0,5 mm cutter, it was more work than I expected. When I havew to do this again, I would turn the thread down to 11,0 mm and glue it into the M9*0,5 mm adapter.
With the beam expander, my 638 nm Laser looks nice, but the beam...
thank you very much for your support. I will built an Adapter M11,5 to 9 mm from brass or stainless steel. My lathe is prepared since days to cut the 0,5 mm thread.
Meanwhile, I noticed, that the sanwu thread is not strange. It is a m11,5*0,5 mm from the Iso 13-3 series. At ebay they...
today I got my 3* beamexpander with that strange M11,44*0,5 thread.
Is this beam Expander used together with a lense or without?
At the moment, i have no real idea, how to connect this expander with my homemade lasers.
The problem is, that the thread is very short. It will be very...
I also tested an 0 to 300 mA Driver from Odic Force. It works well at 5 V test load, but it will not regulate at 5,5 V.
I will see, how this Driver works with the new diodes (on the way from China)
i think my 4500 mA driver is also dead. At a 5 V test load, the current swings between 400 mA and over 1000 mA. Today I got some driver from Odic Force. The 0 to 1600 mA driver has an output between 330 mA and 600 mA! So it is useless for the 488 nm diode.
What driver will work with this...