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Hello LPF Members. As you read in the title, this is a select-able 5 range diy driver!
Don't get too excited though. This isn't a "DIY Flexdrive" or anything of that sort. It's an LM317 based driver. This is just my take on it.
Components I used
LM317
10 Ohm resistors
15 ohm resistors
2 Pole 6 Throw Rotary Switch
Illuminated Switch (optional safety feature)
Alligator Clips
1n4001 Diode
10uf Electrolytic Capacitor
This whole project cost me about $15 to make which isn't too too bad for a driver this versatile!
Each mA range is varied due to slight resistor variation.
They would ideally be...
83 mA ~ 15 ohms 1/4W resistor
125 mA ~ 10 ohms <1/4W resistor
210 mA ~ 6 ohms <1/2W resistor
330 mA ~ 3.75 ohms <1/2W resistor
410 mA ~ 3.1 ohms <1/2W resistor
You can achieve the 6 ohm, 3.75 ohm, and 3.1 ohm settings by wiring resistors in parallel.
6 Ohms - a 15 ohm and a 10 ohm
3.75 ohms - a 15 ohm and 2x 10 ohm
~3.1 ohms - 2x 15 ohm and 2x 10 ohm
If there are a few requests, I'll post the build schematic for the driver on this thread
The "Off" selection on the rotary switch turns the whole device off. When you turn it to a mA range the red switch lights up. Before you can turn the laser on, you must also turn this switch on. It serves as an extra safety feature to ensure you KNOW if the laser diode will be on.
These are the voltage input supply pins. It's not an ideal set up, but works. I will improve upon this part of the driver later on. Perhaps with battery holders or a DC jack.
Output leads to connect to a diode. I know connecting alligator clips to a diode is both stupid and hard given its size, case voltage supply, and sensitivity if shorted. However, just solder wires to the diode and you can safely connect the diode to the driver.
This just shows the voltage requirements for each diode type. This driver can be supplied with over 12V if needed. However the LM317 will turn the excess power into heat. This is not a problem if you properly heat sink it with a transistor heatsink, or if you want to use a metal housing and screw the LM317 into the case. However that would complicate the layout as the heatsink on the LM317 is electrically connected to its middle pin.
Just wanted to share this! :thanks:
Don't get too excited though. This isn't a "DIY Flexdrive" or anything of that sort. It's an LM317 based driver. This is just my take on it.
Components I used
LM317
10 Ohm resistors
15 ohm resistors
2 Pole 6 Throw Rotary Switch
Illuminated Switch (optional safety feature)
Alligator Clips
1n4001 Diode
10uf Electrolytic Capacitor
This whole project cost me about $15 to make which isn't too too bad for a driver this versatile!
Each mA range is varied due to slight resistor variation.
They would ideally be...
83 mA ~ 15 ohms 1/4W resistor
125 mA ~ 10 ohms <1/4W resistor
210 mA ~ 6 ohms <1/2W resistor
330 mA ~ 3.75 ohms <1/2W resistor
410 mA ~ 3.1 ohms <1/2W resistor
You can achieve the 6 ohm, 3.75 ohm, and 3.1 ohm settings by wiring resistors in parallel.
6 Ohms - a 15 ohm and a 10 ohm
3.75 ohms - a 15 ohm and 2x 10 ohm
~3.1 ohms - 2x 15 ohm and 2x 10 ohm
If there are a few requests, I'll post the build schematic for the driver on this thread
The "Off" selection on the rotary switch turns the whole device off. When you turn it to a mA range the red switch lights up. Before you can turn the laser on, you must also turn this switch on. It serves as an extra safety feature to ensure you KNOW if the laser diode will be on.
These are the voltage input supply pins. It's not an ideal set up, but works. I will improve upon this part of the driver later on. Perhaps with battery holders or a DC jack.
Output leads to connect to a diode. I know connecting alligator clips to a diode is both stupid and hard given its size, case voltage supply, and sensitivity if shorted. However, just solder wires to the diode and you can safely connect the diode to the driver.
This just shows the voltage requirements for each diode type. This driver can be supplied with over 12V if needed. However the LM317 will turn the excess power into heat. This is not a problem if you properly heat sink it with a transistor heatsink, or if you want to use a metal housing and screw the LM317 into the case. However that would complicate the layout as the heatsink on the LM317 is electrically connected to its middle pin.
Just wanted to share this! :thanks: