What lights do you have?

TheDukeAnumber1 said:

These guys have a buck boost in them for <$5

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It doesn't have a "1000lm" emitter in it. That makes quite a big difference in the cost. It also doesn't include shipping.

I've got one a lot like that, and although it does take lithium, it is only in regulation from 1.4-3.2V. Anything higher and the current rises which leads me to believe it's boost-only.

Hey guys Cyparagon made me think about a serious question..
Where can I find a decent 4amp driver for my Sipik?
(Or would 2.8AMPS be enough?)
(I am really thinking about getting the 2.8AMP for my light)
http://www.customlites.com/8X7135-28-amp-selectable-mode-XML-driver-DR28amp.htm

Any input you guys?

I got my Convoy M1 today, I did a review HERE

Received my Crelant 7G10.

It's a monster light. One thing they did not do, was skimp one bit on the aluminum. The head of the light has a very solid tank like feel to it, and the light itself is HEFTY. Feels far heavier than TK75 for example.

It's on par with a stock skyray king in overall output.

Obviously kills the SRK in throw.

Still now that I have it, I feel a bit of buyers remorse. While the build feels top notch, I don't think they are driving it nearly as hard as they should, and the UI is bad.

The light always turns on when you insert fresh batteries.

After that, you click once to go into high mode, click again to go into medium. Third click, and the light is off.

Either of the two settings, the HIGH, or MEDIUM, can be adjusted through infinite variable driver.

The lowest low is still fairly bright though, and the inability to turn off the light instantly is bad.

Once you take the batteries out, the presets are lost. Being an electronic switch there is definitely parasitic drain, though I suspect not much.

Overall I'd rate the 7G10 light a 7.5/10.

Hmm thats a shame, I was really interested in the 7G10...Have you checked up how much current the MT-G2 can handle, maybe its modifiable... :beer:

You gonna post a more in-depth review? Curious how hard they're driving it.

On the web it says 3 A. Here are the specs from MDlightsource:

Specifications

- CREE MT-G2 LED with 50 000 hours life span.
- Maximum output: 1860 lumens (ANSI FL-1 standard)
- High efficient constant current circuit and output-luminance
- Durable, custom-designed Microcontroller drive circuit
- Side switch and mode changing infinitely variable brightness
(Hidden Strobe and SOS,quickly click side switch twice).
- Working voltage: 5.4V--12V DC
- Battery Types Supported: 4 x 18650
- Runtime:High output at 3 A: 1860 lumens for 130 minutes.
Low output at 0.01A: 1 lumen max for 1000 hours
- Mil. Spec. Type III hard anodized aircraft grade 6063-T6 aluminum alloy
- Color: Black
- Ergonomic grip with anti-roll design
- Bezel: stainless steel
- High performance aluminum OP reflector with concentrated beam shot
- Waterproof: IPX-8 Standard
- Lens: Toughened & ultra-clear coated and anti-abrasive glass
- Dimensions: Length 198mm, Head Diameter 79mm ,body 54mm
- Weight: 644g excluding battery
- Accessories: Lanyard, spare o-ring

:beer:

Edit: @ BShanahan14rulz managed to get 4.6 A with a fully charged AW IMR 18650. So definitely the high Vf and V drop of the batteries at high current. Cheers

Sweet! Yeah, haven't had much time to post or msg anything serious, just random comments here and there to burn up my break time.

I would advise staying away from it. I really don't know what Crelant was thinking in it's design.

The 7G10 is about as bright as an xmlu2 un-modded, but good, stock Sky Ray King, maybe a tad less, based on ceiling bounce.

Of course the 7G10 wins out big time in throw, and it does have a slightly, slightly nicer, warmer tint than xmlt6.

What really bothers me about this light is the following;

-It's BIG. The reflector is housed in just a ridiculously heavy, thick chunk of aluminum, that serves no purpose at all, except to add weight - it's not close enough to the LED or driver to help with heatsinking.

-The UI sucks. It's the same exact UI as on the 7G2CS and up series, but without the tailcap button. Which means there is parasitic drain, and you can't turn the light off instantly. The absence of having a mechanical cut off switch, really makes me dislike the UI, where I do like on the other lights with the tailcap button.

-It's very easy to turn on accidentally. The button is very light, same as on the other 7G series lights, and it is not recessed. I have had it turn on by accident, and adding insult to injury, if you wear gloves, in the dark, the button is not that easy to find... you are likely to turn it on with you palm though.

-:wtf: were they thinking with putting four springs in the bottom of the battery compartment, to scrape the battery holder? Not really an issue, but a definite design stupidity.

-The battery holder is acceptable, but not great, especially not considering the price point.

-With the battery holder inside the tube, it's kind of a challenge to screw it shut. The threading really could be better. Not saying it's bad, but given the price, it should have been difference threading than say on the 7G3CS, and this light.

-The threads are not anodized. I wouldn't mind this, but they were also dry and scratchy, and, AND, the threads between body, and reflector holding portion are anodized.

-Lastly. Mine started flickering last night. A premium light, that's used gently for barely half hour, and already problems. (Fixed.)

This light, I feel it had a TON of potential, feels like a tank, but it just isn't worth it. Not when you can grab a BS terminator for $105, or get the TK75 for ~$160.

Edit: Flickering was due to dirty threads & too much silicone grease, which I applied trying to do away with the grinding feel of screwing on the battery compartment.

So after a little surfing, how can you tell if the skyray king you want is genuine and not a clone?

You can't.

By their very nature, ALL SRKs are clones.

If you want the "real" skyray king, you go and get the Nitecore TM11, which is what the SRK a cheaper clone version of.

That said, in quality, the ones coming from CNQ are good. I also had good luck with the cheaper ones form FastTech. The difference between my FT and CNQ one are negligible. People just seem to have mixed luck with them.

i have a tank007 e09, it is a great light

Zebralight S6330 flashlight, and H502 headlamp on the way. The SC600II is still on order, but I fear I may turn old and grey before I receive it.

Main reason for the purchase is the s6330 is so freaking small, but should match SRK in output. The headlamp is in prep for the next blackout. I've been eyeing both, and couldn't pass up a good deal.

That and I'm kind of tickled by the idea of leaving the s6330 on for a year :tinfoil:

S6330 is a very interesting looking triple design! No missing chunks from the reflectors meeting! :eg:

Well, it should be a pure flood monster with those kind of shallow OP reflectors. I expect that it will match, or surpass an SRK.

What really got my attention with it, is the size, and UI. It's freaking small...



Also this...

L2 1.9Lm (11 weeks) / 0.43Lm (7 months) / 0.09Lm (1 year)

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There are keychain lights you can leave on for a while, sure, but how many of them also make for super bright lights when needed?

My only concern about it, is which of my batteries will, and won't fit into it.

Just wanted to say: Thank alot grainde, now I want more flashlights :eg:. What have I started..

Just got my two Sipik sk98 I took the plastic "reflector" out of both. One got some scrap copper and paste. This is temporary, I have already ordered 3400mAh Panisonics and a 8xAMC7135. (Right now its ruining on purple laptop 18650's)

Next up, copper sinkpad and a Weller!
Heres the pill