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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Review: Fandyfire STL-V2 Triple XM-L **PIC HEAVY**

Joined
Feb 9, 2011
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Here's another DX light :yh::

fandyfire-stl-v2-cree-xm-lt6-5-mode-1000-lumen-white-3-led-flashlight-black-2-x-18650

- 5 modes: high, medium, low, slow strobe, SOS
- Claims 3000 Lumens (over-rated)
- 1000mA output per LED
- Smooth (SMO) reflector
- Mode memory

I got this light through DX's USA warehouse which came in 5 days later after ordering. The price is pretty reasonable for a 3 XM-L flashlight and since it was also available at the USA warehouse was a big plus for me to get it. It came in a cardboard box and the light was in bubble wrap with specs sheet mostly in Chinese.

I've had this light for almost a month now so I had time to put it through it's paces and it's pretty robust. At first glance the anodizing is decent, no visible cracks unless you look at the threaded parts. The light wasn't properly lubed when I got it because it was making squeaking noises on all removable parts. [sad face]

DX claims it outputs 3000 lumens, which is a overstatement, they usually like to exaggerate lumen output on flashlights they sell. On the light itself it says 1000 Lumens. Comparing it to my Ultrafire TH-T60, this light is a bit brighter. On the multimeter she outputs a whopping 1.658A on high at the tail-cap. I'm pretty sure this light is driven on a boost driver, but since the manufacturer sanded out the part numbers on the ICs its difficult to tell.

I wasn't able to take apart the reflector from the head of the light, which was kind of disappointing because I wanted to see how they wired the LEDs in series or parallel. It's like they super-glued the screw to the body. I almost stripped the head of the screw trying to get it off. It looks similar to another reflector DX sells, but they didn't use the center screw and used the smaller 3 screw holes (1 for wiring, 2 for the screws). Good thing there are other DX members who posted pictures of the actual LED config (in series).

Flashlight pictures
:

185ad2c7-1.jpg


0f38e7eb-1.jpg


Front:
455b2ce0.jpg


Head:
44bcd2e1.jpg

Upper mid piece:
f7bbe84b.jpg


Mid:
41f387dc.jpg


ec19b7ea.jpg


End:
4e9bd30b.jpg


Tail-cap
40de1196.jpg


Tail-cap unscrewed (not lubed :():
b5a6695d.jpg


Head unscrewed (not lubed, again :():
409c6eb1.jpg


Close-up:
992a7d4b.jpg


Light disassembled:
95ed0699.jpg


Under the head (I like the spring, it goes easy when putting the batteries in):
92bdf3c9.jpg


Under the tail-cap:
dbfc9e5f.jpg


Tail-cap disassembled:
b3cd2e5f.jpg


Clicky close-up (rated for 1.5A only?! :wtf:):
33881d16.jpg


Head disassembled to get to the driver:
dc33721f.jpg


478e93ac.jpg


2 difficult screws that won't budge to take out the reflector :mad::
c305734c.jpg


Driver (IC part sanded off):
5a37965d.jpg


0ea323aa.jpg


Double sided board, second board is just used as a cover:
581e0923.jpg


1a4758b7.jpg


Beamshots :drool::
These Pictures were taken locally by the delta which flows out all the way to San Francisco Bay :yh:. Some pictures were taken with a 15 sec exposure:

Control:
147adbd7.jpg


High:
ba209d48.jpg


Mid:
639303d8.jpg


Low:
cb129b49.jpg


Quick comparison to my Maglite U2 (Fandyfire left, Maglite U2 right):
6e25159a.jpg


Off:
35bb0da9.jpg


On:
6c3f80f9.jpg


One of my favorite shots! :cool::
ea18e9da.jpg


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Fandyfire top, Maglite U2 bottom:
b7ed2d10.jpg


Modes video:

Testing:

Judging by the way the LEDs are wired (in series) and looking at the driver (boost), the actual current at the tail-cap isn't the definite value going through the LEDs.

I covered the light with my beanie because it was too bright to see anything:
d9027d16.jpg


High: 1.658 A
Mid: 799 mA
Low: 154 mA
Slow Strobe: 1.21 A
SOS: 1.63 A

I also took a video of the temperature reading after 10 minutes continuously on high. I used 0.86 emissivity value on the black anodized aluminum body. This is just an estimate since I haven't found the exact value after searching online. So take this as an approximate temperature reading and not the actual. Please correct me if I'm wrong about the emissivity.

I don't know what the noise is, it's definitely not crickets, I'm in my room closed doors and windows. Probably some electrical noise?

Final thoughts:

The light feels solid and the anodizing is great. It's a very bright light that floods very well, but doesn't throw as much. The only few things that bothered me was the lack of lube used on the threaded parts and O-rings. The squeaking made it feel somewhat cheap. The current output could be fixed by modifying the driver or using a different driver, but I think I'll leave it as is for the time being. It's definitely one of my favorite flashlight to date despite some of the noted flaws.

ee46d45f.jpg
 
Last edited:





Joined
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Hello,
You did a GREAT job with all those pics, I have the same exact light but branded as a Sky Ray. That light is awesome especial for the price. +1
 
Joined
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Thanks for the nice comments guys! I saw the Sky Ray version, I wonder if they use the same driver as well. :thinking:
 
Joined
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Messages
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Points
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There was a comparison done on BLF I believe, and they torn them both down and they are the same lights with different branding. The Sky Ray came out first, then DX came out with the same light but labeled as the Fandyfire; which DX has done in the past too, only using the popular lights from Sky Ray...cause Sky Ray sure does put out so many different models, some are junk and yet others like this light is Rock Solid. :beer:
 
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Messages
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Darn, I can't seem to find the thread over at BLF. Yeah, there was a thread about it on DX that someone product requested the light because they saw the Sky Ray version. It is an awesome light!
 
Joined
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Hey guys, I know this thread is quite old, but I have new and relevant information to share! I've owned this light for a long time and I just modded it. Took a while right? I was finally able to take out those stubborn screws that held the reflector in.

Here's a list of the mods I did:

  • Resistor mod driver:
    • High: 3.24A
    • Med: 1.41A
    • Low: 0.186A
  • XM-L2 U2 1A on copper noctigons
  • Lapped noctigons to expose the bare copper
  • Arctic cooling MX-2 thermal compound
  • 22 guage wiring for LEDs and driver
  • UCL glass

IMG_0083_zpsb845a92c.jpg


IMG_0084_zpse3b105b7.jpg


I wish I had thought of doing a before and after shot, but I can really tell the difference. It's way brighter now! Before, high was barely close to the high on my DRY. Now the high is just about as bright as the turbo on my DRY. At one point it was even brighter than the DRY, but it would cut out after 5 secs because of the resistor mod so I had to switch out resistors to be less aggressive.
 




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