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ArcticMyst Security by Avery
Cree C8 driver mod?
- Thread starter SixTee9
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- Dec 29, 2009
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You could swap out the driver for a different one, if you have soldering skills.
Illuminationsupply.com has a 1.4A 3mode and a 3A selectable mode (with a mode group of L-M-H available) in 17mm round boards.
You will most likely also have to transfer the spring from your old board to the new one.
Alternatively, your light may already have a configurable driver. Do you see stars on the bottom of your driver? Got any pics of your driver close-up, or any identifying markings?
edit: https://illuminationsupply.com/led-drivers-c-52_32/ here's link. amc7135 based drivers are the ones I was mentioning above.
Illuminationsupply.com has a 1.4A 3mode and a 3A selectable mode (with a mode group of L-M-H available) in 17mm round boards.
You will most likely also have to transfer the spring from your old board to the new one.
Alternatively, your light may already have a configurable driver. Do you see stars on the bottom of your driver? Got any pics of your driver close-up, or any identifying markings?
edit: https://illuminationsupply.com/led-drivers-c-52_32/ here's link. amc7135 based drivers are the ones I was mentioning above.
Last edited:
SixTee9
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As soon as I get home from work I will take a closer picture of the driver for you to see I'm not even sure what amp it is for high mode it is 800 Lumens
- Joined
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XM-L is usually good for around 3A, but at 1.4A you would still have a lot of light (400-500lm guestimation) but twice as much runtime.
Again, though, you are gonna have to be pretty good at soldering. Not expert, but it's still a bit harder than through-hole soldering, mainly because you are trying to get the solder to "wet" the board AND the brass pill, while the brass pill is cooling down your solder and solidifying it before it has a chance to wet to the brass.
But yeah, I'd hazard a guess that the driver is a 17mm diameter board, and if so, those AMC7135 boards should work fine.
Again, though, you are gonna have to be pretty good at soldering. Not expert, but it's still a bit harder than through-hole soldering, mainly because you are trying to get the solder to "wet" the board AND the brass pill, while the brass pill is cooling down your solder and solidifying it before it has a chance to wet to the brass.
But yeah, I'd hazard a guess that the driver is a 17mm diameter board, and if so, those AMC7135 boards should work fine.
