Need some help in finding the fault in my build.

Update
I think i figured out the cause of it, I was poking the driver with my tweezer just now to check if anything was loose with a medium pressure and guess what, the capacitor on the input side fall off. A cold solder joint... i am going to junk that piece of crap driver. I need a suggestion of a boost driver. x boost was sold out and lazeerer didnt reply to my pm. fmt was too big.

So i start building my first 445nm build and below is the things i used.
My build thread
http://laserpointerforums.com/f65/my-first-diy-445nm-laser-82916.html

Diode is a130 so if i poof it will be cheap to replace. And it did poofed.
Driver is from ebay but look like the one o like sell. I place a meter with a short 16awg silicon wire in line with the diode and driver after i set the current on the test load. it was running at around 850ma maybe before lead might be 900ma.
Adjustable 2W 445nm/445nm blue laser driver circuit/ 2A/Round [OL-445-2AD] - $14.99 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce

i had my build sucessfully build and it lasted for a day.

So here is the problem. I pushed the diode to the module and tested out and it was fine, i put on top of a box and it somehow rolled and dropped around 5cm. Tested again it was fine.

Then i built my laser and it was lasing. I probably used it for a good 30-45mins total on time with turning off when the heatsink start to feel warm. I did put it aside and use my laptop to surf web while it cool down. I assume i build and current set was fine with it

Next day is the problem. I took my charged battery and place it in and turn on for a few second and off it. It works good. I didnt have a holster so i wrap it with the packaging materials that came with the host and place it in the usps box that came from sinner. Place in bag, good to go

So glasses worn, ready to power, he powered it up and immediately off it in <1-2s. laser focused on infinity. Looks good. Then the second time he on it, OPS! it turn led. We were in aircondition environment probably around 20deg plus laser was at that temperature too. BUT when i set the current it was at room temperature at my house of 29-31deg. Singapore is real hot.

He is a guy with lots of static, i always got shocked by him. Plus i connected the case pin to the ground pin of the diode since the host is ground and driver negative to diode negative is common.

So i assumed the driver pot somehow was moved when i place in my bag, When i was home, i pull out and tested the current with the test load, it was fine same current as i set voltage is good at 4.6v. The diode was really led'ed. Place and ammeter in line to diode and current measure was few ma only, voltage was like 4v.
For my build, i insulated the driver ic side with masking tape. so only the battery positive was in connect to the driver and a 26awg wire connect from the laser negative to driver negative and it might be pulling 1A+ since it is a boost driver. Do you think it could generate enough heat to heat up the negative diode pin so it somehow damage it? I didnt solder the negative driver side to the heatsink. While i was testing with test load, the wire didnt get hot.

So in short it is connected like this

[ Battery + ]------------[ driver battery side + ][ driver output + ]-------------[ diode +]

[ Battery - ] -----[switch]------[host]-----[case pin]----[ diode -]-----[ driver output -][driver battery side-]

the driver battery side - side is same as driver output -

So now can someone help me figure out what's wrong? is it because i dropped the module, driver spike, esd, or I am just down on luck?
I would like to find the fault before i place another diode in.

Sorry for the long post and maybe a little singlish was used. I tried my best to limit it already :undecided:
If it is driver fault, need help in getting pointed in the direction for a boost driver.

BUMP FOR MY FRIEND..

I hope someone can lend him some advice please--

FWIW, My tail-cap was the culprit SO many times on things that I thought way too hard about..

I clicked your link and I can't really see the pictures very well in my iPad, but just as my own personal .02 to anyone having trouble, the first thing I would say to check would be the tail cap.

Good luck!

Ok. What sign/things should I look out for? thanks

I may be wrong in how this is done, but it just worked on mine..

Open the battery compartment
insert battery but don't put the tail-cap on
Take a length of wire and touch one side to the negative post on the battery and touch the other to the inside of the case and see if she fires.

Is at doesnt work, I have an idea #2 for you. Let us know


EDIT-

Obviously if your negative side of the battery goes in first (battery goes in backwards) and the spring isn't on the cap, but on the module itself like one of the O-like units, you would do the same as above except with the positive side

I think i some how get you, you talking about testing whether switch is spoilt or working? yeah it is working. put dmm to continuity mode and beep fine when on and not when off.
My problem is i need to find out whats the problem that caused the diode led just when i bring it out of my house. Hope i didnt misunderstands you

I'll post pics :beer:

unrealistic said:

I think i some how get you, you talking about testing whether switch is spoilt or working? yeah it is working. put dmm to continuity mode and beep fine when on and not when off.
My problem is i need to find out whats the problem that caused the diode led just when i bring it out of my house. Hope i didnt misunderstands you

Click to expand...