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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Need some advice on parts

IsaacT

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I hate asking for help on builds in regards to things that everyone seems to know, but here goes:

I recently purchased one of Mrcrouse's Titanium Ice JADD kits and it is on it's way to me. I intend to finally build a 445nm laser(I'm like what? almost 3 years behind?). So a few questions....

How much of a difference is the 9mm 445nm diodes than the M140's? I am asking because I want to do this right. I don't want to get to the end of the build and wished I had done something differently. However, I noticed that the 9mm Diodes cost 95 USD as opposed to the M140's which are 45 USD. THAT IS A HUGE DIFFERENCE!!!!! So....is it worth it?

Second question I have is this: what driver(affordable driver that is...) would y'all recommend for my build? Since the host takes 1 x 18650, I believe I would need a Boost Driver. One limitation I have, however, is that I don't know how to set my own drivers(yet...I am starting a major in electrical engineering, I am pretty sure I will learn how sooner or later) so I need to buy the driver preset with the current I need.

Last question...how do you heatsink a driver without shorting it or something? I will be getting Heatsink compound with the kit, but is there anything special I need to do to make sure the heatsink doesn't short stuff out?

I have never been real good with electronics/electronics work so I appreciate any advice I could acquire in this matter. Especially with regards to the diodes.

Thanks,
Isaac

PS- For real. Thank you all!
 





Blord

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The 9mm 445nm diodes have a high focal lens included which is comparable with the G1/G2 lens. That makes the price difference a lot smaller. The 9mm diode and the 5.6mm diode have the same mA/mW characteristic but the 9mm can be push much higher. 2.1-2.2A is no problem with these diodes.

With only one battery you will have 3.7-4.1V at the max. You will need a boost driver like the Lazeerer X-boost or the Foulmist FLTboost or a single/dual Ben Boost driver. There are more choices outside.

Put a small copper/aluminum sink on top of the regulator. Make sure it doesn't touch other components on the driver.
 
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IsaacT

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I have searched and searched but I cannot seem to find a place to buy the X-Boost from Lazeerer. All I ever find are the X-Drives which are all Buck drivers.
 

IsaacT

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If I did those I would have to run 2 of them in parallel and if I am reading things right I would only be able to get like 1100mA out of them total? I just saw THESE Drivers on Cajunlasers. Would these be a good option? If I did that driver though I would only be hitting 1.7A so it would seem the M140's would be just as good of an option as the 9mm's(since the 9mm advantage is that it goes higher but at the same/similar mA/mW?)

Thanks for bearing with me on this...I am willing to save for the best thing but only if there will be an actual difference that is worth it. Being a broke college student working at 7.50/hr makes you question things like that.... :crackup:
-Isaac
 
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I ran a blitzbuck on mine with 12V input. Is your only option is 1 battery? The X-drive can take up to 16V too. I dont know of a boost that will hit that 2.2A unless the new FMT will. you may have to paralell some if you need to boost.

As far as the diode goes I would definately go the 9mm. There kickass!!! and the lens is great too.
 
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I think in about 90% of the cases most drivers are heat sunk with Arctic Silver which is non conducting and will not short out anything on the driver.

Like this>












All of these examples are made with the driver bonded directly to a metal heat sink with Arctic Silver.
I use min amounts of Arctic Silver as there is no need to have is squirting out around the edge, only enough to do the job is what is required ;)

Hope this helps...




Last question...how do you heatsink a driver without shorting it or something? I will be getting Heatsink compound with the kit, but is there anything special I need to do to make sure the heatsink doesn't short stuff out?Thanks,IsaacPS- For real. Thank you all!
 

IsaacT

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I suppose if I invested in two Li-ions that were each half the size of an 18650 I could use a buck driver
 
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yep there just a little lower capacity than the 18's The X-drive is a great driver too and he can actually set them up to 4A or something like that now...
 
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Was that supposed to go on the free DIY boost post Jeff? So you are saying that arctic silver is non conductive too? I can see that the alumina was because it is ceramic that was what I was trying to say in that post over there I am going to do some tests. I was allway's told to keep the ASilver away from any chip posts because it could short them out...

Anyway's cant wait to see what you will chose for the 445.. If ya want a BURNER with a good lens the 9mm is your diode.. You may also want to look at the PL450B which I think has a beautifull color and hits close to 2W but you would be giving up a great lens.

DTR has both..
 

IsaacT

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I'll probably go for the PLTB450(I think that is the one you meant? the PL450B should be the single mode low power one). I'll probably run it at around 1.8A or so. What makes the 9mm a better burner? I thought the beam specs were similar to the M140's.

Thanks,
Isaac
 

IsaacT

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After viewing both of those I think I may have to go for a 9mm diode.... :/ do you have to do any work on the lens barrel to get the included lens in there?
 
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you have you buy a barrel for the lens and you need a 9mm diode module.. that's it. DTR can help you with all that.. I think he will even press it in a module for you with leads.. Ask for his V4 module if you go that rout...

You will love the lens that comes with it.. I would say it is better than the G2's the output is prety much the same I have seen more and less on both but there mw's apart and it has alot nicer colmination. makes a nice decent dot.. rather than the bar with wings..
 
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