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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

My diode pin is broken.

LBPark

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Feb 28, 2012
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6745-qrqe1-2.jpg


MY DIODE PIN IS BROKEN:cryyy:

This is too weak

what am I supposed to do?

solder? gule?

please help me
 





Blord

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Consider it as a loss. There is nothing you can do about it. Solder/welder the pin back will destroy the delicate components inside the diode.
 

Blord

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What diode is it ? If it is the case pin then you can omit it.
 

Hiemal

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Which pin is broken???

You gotta let us know otherwise we can't help you.

The case pin looks like it's connected directly to the case. If that one is broken, then you don't have to worry.

If it was the other pin with a blackish ring around it, then you might be able to solder it to the case with some luck.

If both the ones I mentioned above are broken, then just worry about the one with the black ring around it.
 
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Is it the one pin that is directly connected to the gold back, or is it one of the two pins with the black insulating ring around them? I had to use a tiny dab of flux, but managed to connect the tiny dot that was left of the pin to the gold back of the diode. That way, I could use the case pin as a connection.
 

LBPark

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not case pin:cryyy:
It's a negative connection pin
I'm going to solder it.
Wish me luck.
 
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Jan 14, 2011
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You can try bridging the broken end of the negative pin to the case with drop of solder.
Dab some rosin flux on the broken pin's pocket.
Melt a bubble of solder on the soldering iron's tip.
Apply soldering iron tip to the broken pin pocket, allow solder to flow to case.
Don't hold the iron's tip to the diode for more than about 15 seconds (just enough to get the solder to flow to the fluxed case.
 

sinner

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You can try bridging the broken end of the negative pin to the case with drop of solder.
Dab some rosin flux on the broken pin's pocket.
Melt a bubble of solder on the soldering iron's tip.
Apply soldering iron tip to the broken pin pocket, allow solder to flow to case.
Don't hold the iron's tip to the diode for more than about 15 seconds (just enough to get the solder to flow to the fluxed case.
I think i am losing the track of SOP's on LD's soldering.. :can: Or you're kidding me 15seconds? it will not only fry the diode it will cook it and roast the internals untill a diode-steak is formed!!
 
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The Axis module will help some with heat dissipation and the max for soldering time for that package is usually 30 Seconds @ 200 degrees C. So, unless you are an idiot using a 200 Watt plumber's iron, or a torch, you'll be just fine up to 15 seconds (and probablly beyond). 15 seconds on a case connection has never killed any of my diodes and 1 second is definitely NOT enough (unless you are the idiot with the 200 Watt iron)......
 

sinner

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The Axis module will help some with heat dissipation and the max for soldering time for that package is usually 30 Seconds @ 200 degrees C. So, unless you are an idiot using a 200 Watt plumber's iron, or a torch, you'll be just fine up to 15 seconds (and probablly beyond). 15 seconds on a case connection has never killed any of my diodes and 1 second is definitely NOT enough (unless you are the idiot with the 200 Watt iron)......

That doesnt make sense AT ALL !! Please provide any link that supports your statement
And i can give you some of my common sense here.. The temperature of the soldering iron is much more than 200C-350C which most of us have, and we're talking about normal 30~40W iron here, nobody literally NOBODY ever used a plumbers iron for soldering the leads.. So you are trying to offend people literally..

The case pin is connected to the CASE.. He broke a NEGATIVE contact pin, which whatsoever DOESNOT makes contact to the case and only connected to the emitter which is 3-5micron so what you are saying is not valid, it will NOT dissipate all of the heat to the aixiz module, some of the heat will ultimately fry the emitter and not forgetting the 0.1um size filament like wires connecting case to emitter..
 

Stix62

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The Axis module will help some with heat dissipation and the max for soldering time for that package is usually 30 Seconds @ 200 degrees C. So, unless you are an idiot using a 200 Watt plumber's iron, or a torch, you'll be just fine up to 15 seconds (and probablly beyond). 15 seconds on a case connection has never killed any of my diodes and 1 second is definitely NOT enough (unless you are the idiot with the 200 Watt iron)......

No, I'm the idiot with the 40W iron that must be soldering incorrectly because I obviously do it far too quickly.

Sorry, are you soldering or welding? 30 seconds? :wtf:
 

Wytry

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Feb 20, 2012
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You should try using conductive glue. No risk here, If it doesn't work then try soldering.
 




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